allday

Hey guys I'm new to the oldsmobile scene. I recently purchased a '72 cutlass s that had a chevy 350 in it. I took it out and I purchased a 455 out of a '69 delta 88, it came with the "c" heads I believe.

My question is what is the best way to get around 350-400 rwhp and still be streetable? Which cam, intake, carb, etc... would be the best route?

Thx, for your help.

allday

p.s. the motor is a complete motor and i'm looking to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of 2,000

ziff396

I would believe that you are just a tad short of money for that build. I could be wrong. Maybe a tad tad short. Anyways, good luck!

cutlassefi

You'll need to make sure you're not throwing good money after bad, check the internals extensively first.
Then if they're o.k. stick in a cam in the 220@.050 range, good valve job, Performer, 750cfm or so carb, headers etc. You'll hit 350+ pretty easily, then go from there.
There are plenty of builds on here to use as a reference, you should have no problem. Just don't skimp on the necessary machine work if needed, it'll come back to bite you in the a..

Good luck!

therobski

350 rear wheel HP (RWHP) out of a 455, cost is an easy 7-8k, and depending on the transmission, 4-speed or automatic that would translate to approx. 435-450 HP at the flywheel. Then you will need the supporting cast. Not trying to scare you off, but I don't want to mislead you either, especially building an performance Olds motor. In addition, the machine shops in your area may not be familiar building a performance Olds motor. Get a GOOD stock rebuild, good cam choice for your application, 350-375 hp at the flywheel is a not problem, as others mentioned there are alot of builds on this site (that's my recommendation and learn and e-mail us) and also you can find great used used parts on this site to put on your stock rebuild, Edelbrock intakes, carbs, etc. they may bump the HP some, but starting with a 2K budget asking 350-400 HP at the rear wheels is a big difference in $$$. Your car even with a slightly modified 455 will pull your shirt off!!! It's all about the OLDS torque.

cutlassefi

My bad, missed the rw.
I agree with therobski, plan on 6K+ for 350-400rwhp. I've done 2 here recently, 450+ at the flywheel, both were 7K+.

ah64pilot

There are guys on here that will tell you it can be done with a $2000 budget...most of them are the ones asking questions like "why is there metal in my oil" and "weird tapping noise in top of engine".

Someone busted my ***** for building a $10000 engine when I first got on this site. I just laughed. If you're gonna do it, do it right. Yes, you can throw parts on (or in) a stock Olds engine and end up spending $2000 to spin the tires for a year, or even two. If all your after is a short term engine that won't see much use then put a wild cam in it and get an intake and carb to match. There's your $2000. But when the bottom end cry's uncle...you're back at square one.

My philosophy is; Build your engine so you don't have to build another one...if that makes sense. Beef it up, put good parts in it, make tons of power, and drive it all day JMO

For a build example check my build link in my signature and check out the pics of the engine.

507OLDS

You will also get higher RW figures on a dyno-jet dyno vs a mustang dyno.With the dyno-jet,you are basicly spinning a drum.With teh mustang dyno,you enter all the info about the car,like weight,wind resistance,etc.,so you know how much power your engine is making in your car,going down the road.I am fortunate to have access to a mustang dyno about a mile from my house,and it has come in very handy for tuning,and making 1/4 mile passes.My car has always ran the same at the track,as it does on that dyno,so I know what to expect.

Is there a certain ET range that you would like to run?You have a nice engine to start with.Does it run good now,or does it need rebuilt?

allday

Thx for the info, like i said i'm new to the olds scene and this is my first attempt at a restoration. Sort of disappointed at how much it's going to end up costing me but i'd rather get it right the first time then have to rebuild it later.

I'm picking the engine up sunday so i'll find out if it needs to be rebuilt or not, i'd like to run mid 12's

507OLDS

Mid 12's is fairly easy to do without getting real crazy with the engine.

70Post

I have a buddy here with a '72 Cutlass Convertible. 455, C heads mildly prepped by one of the Olds engine guys on RealOldsPower (either Jim Lapikas or Smitty...can't remember which).

>C heads, I assume the larger valves, filled heat risers in heads, mild porting...absolutely nothing exotic in the heads.

>.060 over with the TRW Forged pistons and maybe moly rings

>Stock rods with ARP bolts I believe. Maybe ARP main bolts but no straps on the main caps or any other more exotic stuff down there. Cast nodular factory crank

>Headers with 2-1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust system.

>Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock Carter type carb, maybe a spacer under the carb (can't remember).

>Cam is a Bullet or Ultradyne grind (maybe somewhere in the 220-230 duration area @.050)....car runs power brakes and makes plenty of vacuum....no vacuum reserve tank or anything like that.

>Ignition...maybe an HEI....can't remember but no MSD or anything else fancy.

>Car does require an electric fuel pump and he tried one of the early RobbMC mechanical pumps but it didn't seem to work (The RobbMc pumps have been redesigned since then I think).

>Turbo 350 trans with an unknown stallspeed convertor and shift kit...nothing fancy.

>3.42 posi rear

He drives it to the track (approx 1.5 hours or so) on the Drag Radials he has on the car and I believe he's consistently in the high 12's now.

This wasn't a big buck motor and the car gets driven...not daily but it's absolutely not a garage queen or trailer queen. Local machinist did the work. The motor was built around 7 years ago so prices were cheaper also...but again, nothing exotic or high dollar and he doesn't baby the car at all. The machinist had a one man shop and he seemed to care about doing quality work. Of course, he's no longer open so he was probably undercutting himself on price.

Plan on spending some $$ but more importantly, find a competent machinist to spend the $ with. The fanciest parts will end up as junk if you use a crappy machinist/builder.



>

ah64pilot

Here are the build specs on the first 455 I ever built, ran 13.001 on BFG Radial TA's (295/50/15)

455 Fa Block .030" over
TRW Forged 10:1 Pistons
Engle Cam JM-20-22(.496/.512 lift, 226/230 dur @ .050", 110 lobe sep
Stock E heads (hardened valve seats)
Stock Cast Iron Manifold
Demon 750 Carburetor
Parts store HEI w/ Accel Coil and wires
Hedman 1 3/4" Primary headers
3" Exhaust through 2 chamber flowmasters
TH-400 w/ Transgo shift kit (competition)
Stock 8.5" rearend w/ 3.42 gear and Auburn posi

507OLDS

In 1993,I helped a friend with a cheap-*** budget build 455,for his bench-seat,column-shift 70 Cutlass Supreme.

74 455 block,washed in my driveway with kerosene & dishsoap,then bored/honed +.030
Polished N-crank,reconditioned stock rods,and Keith Black hyperteuctic pistons
We did NOT have it balanced.He was that cheap.
Stock C-heads,cleaned,bumps removed in exhaust runners,and bowls blended the best I could with a die-grinder,sitting in my driveway with sandles on.
Reused valves,Crane spring kit,Crane stamped steel,stock replacement rockers.
JM-20-22 cam,very mellow
Comp roller timing chain
Melling HV oil pump,stock pickup,stock oil pan
74 HEI distributor,came with block.
Performer intake & Holley 750 carb.
Hedman 1 3/4 primary headers.
Compression was 9:6:1

In his 3900lb colum-shifted Supreme,with 3:73 gears,it went consistent 12:50's,and faired very well at some bracket races.

I am laughing even thinking about that engine.If there were any more corners cut,it would have been a ball,but we did it.That engine lasted about 6 good years,unitil the cam went bad,and sent metal into the oil,scoring the bearings,giving up the knock,game over.

alek72us

My engine i found in a jet boat bought it for 100$ missing a rod cap.

455 bored .030 high compression pistons, performer intake, E-heads and crane fireball cam.
i already had rods laying around from a 400 that i tore apart awhile back.
checked all the measurments was happy with everything ordered new from summit cam/main/rod bearings, rings, gasket kit, oil pump, and a dip-stick close to 400$
the fuel pump and water pump that was on my old 455 wasn't to old so i reused them. i have less then 600$ in my engine. it runs great my truck runs a 13.3 in the 1/4 and my car beats it pretty good so i am sure its in the 12s i just need to get it to the track. one thing i am going to do when i get the money is buy roller rockers. i am extrememly happy with my engine and haven't had any problems with it. the more u do your self the more money u save. the less u know about engines and prices the more likely some one is going to screw u over. good money saving sites are summit racing, compretition products and rock auto.

507OLDS

I would ditch the Fireball cam when you swap the rockers.

alek72us

i'm probably going to run this engine for the summer. when the car is done and complete if that ever happens then i will start building another engine. with differant cam (probably roller), flat top pistons and aluminum heads.