I have to remove the stock air cleaner assembly on my ‘70 W-30 4 Speed so I can adjust the carburetor. All the parts are there and I want to be extremely careful so I do not scratch anything. Which parts should I remove first - in order ?

My car has the stock 256 Rochester carb. It was recently rebuilt along with the motor - top to bottom. I have been having a hard time cold starting the car as of late. The car WAS running great until I ran the car too low on fuel. When I finally get the car started (I can smell gas after cranking for what seems too long) a lot of white smoke comes out of the exhaust - car is probably partially flooded. I then have to toy with the throttle to keep the car from stalling. The choke does not engage like it did before this issue started. Once warmed up the car runs great but I recently noticed that the car will “buck” from time to time. The gas tank, fuel lines and fuel pump are all new. Seeing that my problem started when I ran the car low on fuel is it possible that some debris might be floating around in the carb screen ? I have also been adjusting the idle to try to get it to stay at 800. Any ideas or advice ?

 

Quickie: You have electric choke or stock?

 

Carb screen? I have not seen one of those in a QuadraJet. Any crud in the tank should be on the bottom, so the amount of fuel on top of it is irrelevant. If you have floaters in your tank there is a larger issue than you’re aware of.

 

The choke is stock.

 

Did you do your own adjusting of the A/F mixture screws or who did the A/F mixture screws adjustments? You most likely don't have a wide band AFR gauge installed.

With a vacuum gauge tied into your vacuum line(s) somewhere/anywhere, adjust each A/F mixture screws to the highest achievable vacuum - do this one at a time for each A/F mixture screw until you achieve the highest achievable vacuum. On a stock engine, you should be in the 17"Hg to 21"Hg range. Your vacuum should be rock steady - no wavering of the vacuum needle. If you have no vacuum gauge, you can perform this adjustment by listening to RPM, as well. Adjust each A/F mixture screw until you achieve the highest RPM - one at a time, until you achieve the highest RPM. If the carb was rebuilt that's great, but let's not be fooled into thinking a rebuilt carb is going to perform optimally on any engine it's installed. It most generally needs to have the A/F mixture screws adjusted for each engine application.

 

Thanks Chief. The freshly rebuilt motor was tuned on a a dyno with the rebuilt carb. I’ll get a vacuum gauge. I just have it in my head that the issues started when I basically ran out of gas trying to beat a T-Storm home.

 

I really can't say with ANY certainty what your actual issue is. Heck, production of white exhaust has numerous avenues one of which can certainly be water in the exhaust (or carburetor?) until it burns off. You would never expect water or water vapor in a newly rebuilt engine. But, you said you have white exhaust; so, I'm inclined to think if the car is running you may have to adjust your A/F mixture. I'm just attempting to define what I would do next and that's ensure the A/F mixture is correct.

 

I am NOT trying to be a smartA$$. I recall the W-30 air cleaner assembly. I'm not 100% there is an EXACT procedure other than to say follow a "careful" procedure paying detail to removal using some shop towels/rags to cover areas where you suspect you might bang or dislodge a particular item. Prudence is what you need.

 

Thank you Chief - your advice is appreciated and spot on.

 

Disconnect vacuum lines to the breather, take the two side springs off..you can disconnect springs off the plastic oai top or off tabs by intake. Take the center wing nut of metal breather lid, lift it off..your ready to adjust carb.