deltas1982

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this and based in the UK!

I have bought the above car from American eBay and hopefully will be with me in the UK in the next 6 weeks but I understand from doing research that these cars are detuned due to Smog laws of the time etc to around 225 HP.

I was wondering, is there any simple work which can be done to up it a bit?

I was hoping for work that does not involve changing cam or heads?

I was hoping that people could suggest a good carb to use and inlet manifold or is this a waste of time and would I need to get into the guts of the engine?

I was also going to change it to electronic ignition, probably Petronix.

Any help is much appreciated and any information on these cars, I just can't wait to get this boat on the roads in the UK!

Thankyou

Mike

hullinger

Mike,

Welcome aboad!

You're right about the horsepower being around 225. I am sure others will chime in but I think the first thing is to replace the exhaust with a free flowing and duals. You can also play with the timing to get the most out of that 455 as possible. I found on my '73 Custom Cruiser that there was a lot to gain in " set of the pants" power with adjusting the timing and carb settings. Remember the engine compression is pretty low, in the realm of 8.25 - 1, the rear gearing is meant for the highway, and you've got a lot of weight to move. Even with all this, I found I could still do a mean power brake burnout with that big torquey engine.

Chris

joe_padavano

Unfortunately, that doesn't leave much. The 1973 cars have lower compression, restrictive heads, and a very mild cam. The "J" heads used on the 1973-76 cars are the least desirable big block Olds heads. Increasing compression requires changing pistons, as Olds varied CR by changing the size of the dish in the piston. Yours will look like soup bowls. There isn't much you can do with bolt-ons to make a meaningful change. Certainly get the car running as best you can in stock condition, but a real performance boost requires tearing into the engine.

deltas1982

Hi

Thank you for the advice so sounds like best option is to change exhaust, put electronic ignition on it and set up timing and carb.

Can you give any advice on best way to set up carb and timing, is it to just put it to factory or change the needles on them completely?

Sounds like carb and manifold would have been a waste of money!

Thanks again and I look forward to hearing back.

Cheesrs

Mike

MDchanic

Changing exhaust will do little, as the heads are restrictive, and the cam doesn't make power at high RPMs.

Electronic ignition will do nothing for performance, though it will keep you fro having to adjust the points every year, if that's important to you.

That car has EGR, and if it's in order, the best thing is to keep the carb close to original.

If the EGR is shot, then you get into the question of whether it's best to get it working again, or to retune or replace the carburetor a bit richer. You probably won't gain much that way, though.

Advance the timing as far as it will go without pinging or losing power - probably to about 10°BTDC at idle, and get a distributor recurve kit and change the advance springs and vacuum advance canister to get a more favourable curve.

Welcome to ClassicOlds!

- Eric

Sugar Bear

Replace the timing chain and gears. It is long-term run insurance that will get the valve timing back in spec increasing performance. Those are beautiful cars, good luck and enjoy it!

Redog

Nice find.

I will agree with changing the timing chain. I did that to my 1967 330 that is going in my 85 Delta 88 and I found the timing was off by 1 degree. Sounds like a little, but if it already moved 1 degree, what was going to stop it from moving a few more then having piston to valve contact?

deltas1982

Thanks again for the help, I have just checked the vin and apparently it's got the 250hp engine, I just hope the car is as good as described when it arrives, it's a three owner with 25,000 miles on and I won it for $1,575 on eBay.

Sounds like the easiest stuff to do without spending money is work on the carb and timing but I guess these cars were never meant to be speed machines so best just to sit back, relax and enjoy the drive!

deltas1982

Is it an easy job to change timing chains and gears and does anyone know what part I would order, thanks for the help as specialist knowledge is limited in the UK.

Cheers

deltas1982

Meant to ask what is the e g r?

73aussie455

so its a 455.
EGR- exhaust gas recirculation. feeds exhaust gases into the inlet manifold at idle and part throttle opening. Part of the raft of emission measures put in place in '73 to choke the motors performance.
An open twin system will have it sounding like a big block if nothing else.
Get yourself a '73 Oldsmobile chassis service manual' from ebay, around $12-50usd, and all will be revealed. Your going to need it sooner rather than later.
I have heaps and heaps of info on the '73 98 & 88 models. pm me if you need anything.

deltas1982

Thanks for that, I will get a service manual for it asap. I think I can get one electronically and then print off what I need. Where are you based yourself

rustyroger

Apart from the timing chain and sprockets, you will need a timing cover gasket and a sump gasket.
There are several UK members on this forum, and no doubt still more owners not using it.
There is nothing complicated about your car, anyone who can work on a Rover V8 would understand what to do with your engine.
I agree, get hold of the manual, you will need it to set up the engine with its emission controls. Resist any temptation to take them off unless you really know what you are doing. I know of many cars that have had that done, then they have run like a bag of nails because the carb and timing was wrong without them. Also I recommend you keep a working egr valve, you will see only a marginal improvement in performance if you remove it, and you will have to retune the carburettor if you take it off.
On the plus side, the engine should give very little trouble, as in its low state of tune it is very unstressed. And it will run just fine on the cheapest supermarket petrol you can find.
Whereabouts are you?, I know of members in Cumbria, Southend, Bristol, and I'm in Kent. Have a look on "Classicoldsmobilemap" and you may well find others near you.

Welcome to CO btw!.

Roger.

MDchanic

I wouldn't call it easy, but it's not terribly hard, either. Since the water pump has to come off when you do it, it's a good time to change that, too.

As for parts, you want a good, brand name (like Cloyes) timing set, and not a very cheap one; the $20 ones are likely to be poorly machined, and have been known to be off by several degrees.



The digital manuals are good in a pinch, but are not a good substitute for the real paper manuals. The '73 CSM on WildAboutCars is not a great scan, and its wiring schematics are terrible.
And you will need both a Chassis Service Manual and a Fisher Body Manual if you want to be sure you've covered everything.

- Eric

deltas1982

Ok well I will see how the car is when it arrives and I've managed to source the manuals on Amazon.

I am based in Manchester and my dad actually had the exact same car about 15 years ago which he used as his everyday driver even through the winter and at the same time owned a 1954 Packard.

Thank you for the suggestion with the map, I have never seen another one of these at a show apart from the one in which my dad owned which was the ls and not a regency.

Thanks again

Mike

Allan R

Welcome aboard,

I don't know what the big fuss is about changing out timing chain, exhaust, distributor, carb etc on this car. ALL 1973 98s came with a 455 4bbl and TH400, complete with J heads and smog controls. If this car really only has 25.000 miles, it needs nothing! I think you might be getting some confusion here with crossover information about the 73 Delta which came with a 350 and had the option for a 455.

There is absolutely no reason to change the distributor unless you just want to spend money. A well maintained stock distributor will perform equal to an HEI.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the 7043251 Q-Jet and intake manifold the car comes with. The J heads suck, but not worth replacing, as Joe already noted unless you're going all in on an engine job. You got the car for next to nothing so that's your call.

Installing a dual exhaust will only contribute to a louder car, with no appreciable increase in performance. It will however exercise your billfold a lot.

I strongly suggest you get the car shipped across the pond, drive it and see how you like it. If you like it, which I think you will, leave the thoughts of modifying it alone. If you don't like it? You're further ahead to sell it and buy a 70-72 98. These cars are not meant to be crotch rockets, they are opulent luxo barges. If you want performance get an A body with stupid power and drive it like you stole it. At this point in time though I think you're trying to open a can of worms unnecessarily.

MDchanic

I think we're all ASSuming, this being an international sale, that 25,000 = 125,000.

- Eric

deltas1982

I am imagining so myself but he states he has paperwork and he bought it from his friend in 2005 who was the second owner and had it for 39 years but I'm very sceptical but not too worried as it was so cheap.

I think I will just spent money on servicing it then and make sure it's running right.

Thanks again to all for the advice as you have just saved me from myself and the cash I would have spent making no change to the car!

Cheers

Mike

Allan R

No, I didn't make any such assumption. This is exactly how a lot of unnecessary expense is generated though - with unwarranted assumptions. If it turns out the car has 125k miles the OP has a valid reason to contest the sale as a misrepresented car. Yes, I also am more than familiar with the 5 digit odometer and its shortcomings. When the car arrives with its documentation the OP should be able to verify condition based on not only visible wear indicators and drivability.

I just think the car should be evaluated properly before anything more is offered as performance enhancing suggestions.

joe_padavano

Agreed. It's usually pretty easy to tell if the car has 25K or 125K on it. Look at things like wear on the brake pedals, upholstery, brakes, suspension, etc. Personally I also think it's more likely that the mileage is 125K.

Allan R

Unless you have some reason to not believe the seller, and I think you've decided to trust his honesty, the price of the car is really not too surprising. These B bodies aren't really much in demand, especially from the smogger era. FWIW I think it's somewhat unethical to automatically suspect that intl sales will not accurately reflect the true mileage. It's really up to buyer and seller to determine actual vs guesstimated mileage as part of negotiations. The title document and yearly registrations/maintenance receipts should also be helpful to document the actual mileage. Again, wait till it arrives before you judge. Did you by any chance have someone you trust look at the car in person before you pulled the trigger?

deltas1982

No, I didnt unfortunately as the auction was ending soon so I did not have chance to get some one to look at it. I am hoping next time that I buy one, I can get a mobile mechanic or some 3rd party to look at it.

But to be honest, it is such a low risk because of the cost of it and there is a minimum price for these cars in the UK even if it needs work so I may lose a small amount of money but it is more likely I will make money on it when I come to sell it. Plus it is always good to do some work on the car anyway but I have spoken with the seller and he has told me that he bought the car in 2005 from his personal friend who had the car for 30 years and he had bought it from the first owner but I am unsure what if any back up documentation of the mileage he has.

Going from the photos, the brake pedal looks very good, the interior has no discolouration, there is no interior wear even on the drivers seat and the dash pad is perfect.

There is a bit of rust in the usual rear screen scuttle and a little surface, not structural on the back offside wheel arch. Good thing is that as it is white, it should be easy to match up.

Fortunately as my Dad had one of these, we know them pretty well anyway and we have had a few American cars. He currently has a 1970 Chrysler Newport and my uncle has a 1968 notchback barracuda which just arrived from the states.

Cheers again

Mike

rustyroger

By the time the car has arrived in the UK it's a bit late to contest the sale.
It will cost far more to ship and register the car than the purchase price,
Anyway, let's hope all goes well and we can have some pictures soon please?.

Roger.

deltas1982

Hopefully this photo has been attached

deltas1982

Hopefully you can view these photos I'm having some issues using the iPad cheers

deltas1982

Other photos

deltas1982

Rear, I have just purchased the rear bumper fillers

deltas1982

Interior

deltas1982

This is meant to be only rust on it apart from the usual bit at rear screen but it's meant to be minor

Allan R

Not so. A misrepresented item can be challenged on delivery. FWIW I hope this is truly a 25K documented survivor.

deltas1982

I am really not too worried even if it has 125,000 due to it being of value here in the UK no matter what condition as people are always happy to buy a big block land yacht and the cost was so low for it, I will get it to the UK pretty cheaply and still make money on it as it is.

Cheers

rustyroger

I'm not saying it can't be challenged, Allen, but the logistics involved make it unrealistic.
Shipping and taxes and duties won't be in the purchase price, they will amount to more than the purchase price anyway.
It's a hypothetical situation anyway, if it had been a $50.000 car it would surely have been closely inspected and validated.

Years a go I bought a Sears Craftsman ratchet drive in Texas, I think for about $25. It carried a lifetime warranty but I could buy a replacement rebuild kit for 1c. So I bought two, the sales clerk told me if it was faulty they would simply replace it, I didn't need a rebuild kit.
But when I pointed out getting it replaced would involve an 8.000 mile round trip he saw my point.
After eight years continuous use the ratchet was worn out, so I rebuilt it with my 1c kit. Later that year I was back in Texas and I visited the Sears store I had bought it from. They didn't carry that model anymore, but for 2c I should get 24 years use from my $25 wrench.

Roger.

Allan R

So it's a 'flip car'? When does it arrive?

73aussie455

From the limited pics you posted it could be a 25K car. Even if it is a 125K car it still looks to be in reasonable nick.
I bought my Delta with 125K on the clock and it's actually pretty good really. Some minor cancer spots much the same as your 98 has and a weathered or unkept engine bay were the only real areas of concern, oh and the drivers seat upholstery and foam. It is of course due to the previous owners looking after it and not parking it in a paddock for 20yrs, much the same as your 98 I would expect.
I wouldn't be too concerned, as you say, these full size vessels are not common in our countries and there is a demand for them, albeit a niche market.
If you have a better view of under the hood, you can tell a lot by how it has endured with time.
Best of luck with it, I wish there were more in Australia.