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I have a numbers matching 69 442. The factory 4 core always used to do well with the 7 blade fan, clutch, and 160 t-stat. The last couple summers it's gotten worse, where it won't stay under 180 or even 200, and will creep up to well over that at idle. I flushed the system, installed an HD fan clutch, replaced the t-stat, and finally put a be cool aluminum radiator in the old girl...to no avail. I'm assuming the water pump? A LOT of rust came out with the old coolant.
Fuel is fresh, timing is good and carb was freshed and re-jetted a couple of summers ago, can't say that it runs any different than it used to, it just won't stay cool like it used to.
The thermostat has nothing to do with max operating temp, it controls the minimum. A 160 thermo starts to open at 160 and probably fully opens between 170-175ish. Your cooling system regulates operating max temp. I see nothing wrong with your cruising temps. I have found that idling temps will creep up 30-40 degrees over an extended period of time but recover quickly once the car starts moving.
I understand what you're saying, but creeping up over 200 in the McDonald's drive thru in 65 degree temps in unacceptable. I have power toured this car several times and had it stay below 200 in stopped traffic in 85-90 weather. So you can see why I'm worried leaving on Sunday for the PT once again, and it's supposed to be 95.
Weeeeeeeeeell, since it stays in temp at cruise, it would lead me to believe its an airflow issue at idle. Without seeing exactly whats going on as far as how your new radiator and shroud is installed, checking your tune, water flow, etc, its hard to diagnose.
Why do people always assume it's the water pump? Spend a little time to understand how the cooling system works and you'll find that there are just about zero credible failure modes of the water pump that can cause overheating. The most likely failure of the pump is that the bearing goes bad, followed immediately by the front seal. The large puddle of coolant on the ground under the front of the engine is a REALLY good indication that this has happened. Is it possible that the impeller came off the shaft? Yeah, it's possible. It is, however, EXTREMELY unlikely. There are about a dozen more likely causes to spend your time and money on first.
I've had this car for 19 years. I've gone thru all things besides the water pump. I've flushed the system 3 times. New fan clutch, radiator, shrouds are all stock and in place. Timing is fine, etc. Lot's of rust came out, and this pump has been on there since 2000. So please don't act like I'm jumping to conclusions. Just wanted some other opinions. I'm not an Olds newbie, just don't post a bunch on here.
Could be running lean at idle or your timing is too advanced. Check your coolant level and check for an air lock.
More likely it's not advanced enough. Is this car running ported or manifold vacuum for the advance? Lack of advance WILL cause overheating at slow speeds, and ported vacuum provides zero advance at idle and small throttle openings. On some cars Olds even used a thermal vacuum switch on some cars to switch from ported to manifold vacuum if the car started to overheat. Also, ethanol-loaded gas causes the car to run more lean (and thus overheat) as compared to straight gasoline.
Of course, I'll also note that with a 16 psi cap, coolant boils at over 250 deg F. 200 F is not particularly alarming if temps stabilize there. If temp keeps creeping up, that's cause for concern.
Is this a clutch fan or fixed fan? Is the clutch working properly or has silicone possibly leaked out?
Originally Posted by maxxer442
So please don't act like I'm jumping to conclusions. Just wanted some other opinions. I'm not an Olds newbie, just don't post a bunch on here.
We don't know you, your experience, or your history with this car. The fact still remains that there are no credible water pump failure modes that can cause overheating.
Are all the shrouds and baffles in place? If it runs warm at idle but not on the road I would think maybe the fan isn't able to pull enough air thru the radiator. Have you changed anything else with the car at the same time the problem showed up?
That's the thing. Nothing has changed. And yes all shrouds in place. Joe you bring up a good point about the vacuum. It has the original quad on it with some massaging, but suppose it's worth looking into if you think it would really make that much difference.
That's the thing. Nothing has changed. And yes all shrouds in place. Joe you bring up a good point about the vacuum. It has the original quad on it with some massaging, but suppose it's worth looking into if you think it would really make that much difference.
Gasoline has changed. Are you running E10 now? How do the plugs look? Lean? Is vac advance working?
I'm far from an expert on this but I have some comments. I recently removed the rear fitting on an engine (330 cid) that used to be in the 65 Cutlass I'm putting a motor in. It's the one that connected to the lower heat core outlet. I noticed rust build up that was like plaque build up in an artery. That had to restrict water flow.( And now I'm glad I replaced the heater core and detailed the heater box while doing my car.) Also, when the temp goes up in your car try turning on the heater and see what happens to the temp. I have heard that the so-called regular ethanol gas actually has more the 10%, and a Toyota mech told me one of the first things they do for certain problems a customer is having is test the % of ethanol in the gas. (esp if you live in Iowa).After having lived in CA.( I left) you have to realize that the people requiring ethanol would love to see your 442 in a crusher. I noticed Amsoil has some additives and different anti-freezes that the claim will dissipate heat faster. Hope this helps
Antifreeze has a minimal effect on the boiling point of water. It is more of a protection against freezing.
Cooling system pressure has a greater effect.
Plain water is better for heat transfer than glycol, the efficiency of heat transfer in a glycol system is less than plain water. it depends on the concentration. In a 40% glycol to water mixture you get protection down to about -9 degs F, but heat tranfer is reduced about 7%
you have to realize that the people requiring ethanol would love to see your 442 in a crusher.
Actually, not really. The "oxygenated fuel" mandate back in the 1980s was advertised as reducing emissions by leaning the mixture, but of course today's feedback EFI motors simply adjust the mixture to compensate. The real motivation behind the ethanol mandate is big ag - specifically the corn lobby. They couldn't care less about emissions or the environment, they just want to make as much profit as possible.
Frankly, I'd rather run on E85 - with the engine properly modified to take full advantage of it!
You are correct. The reason I have the attitude I do is that there are or were some legislators in California that wanted to get older cars off the road, and not only junkers but collector cars or tax them as polluters. Also, vehicles like my Harley and other motorcycles should not have over 10% ethanol in the gas but, according to an article in the AMA magazine the percentage is sometimes more than 10%. I listened to the radio ads on KFBK Sacramento telling us how MTBE was going to clean the air and how wonderful it was. Then they put the ethanol in with that. I could go on but I'm glad I live in Missouri; enough said.
June 8th, 2017 | 07:22 AM
