I had a similar small-fastener-fell-into-oil-pan problem a couple of years ago, in a much smaller engine, and ended up fashioning a grabber using a piece of 12ga solid copper wire, one of those tiny neodymium magnets, and about 14" of shrink tubing.

I held the wire up against the magnet, heated the tubing and shrank it around the wire and magnet, then shaved off the end of the tubing past the magnet so it just held it in place.

I've used this a number of times since - you can bend it to any shape, you can still control where the magnet goes, and even through the surrounding shrink tubing, it will still grab a fastener.

- Eric

 

Took care of a few little things today.
Measured and cut the holes for the O2 sensors. My buddy will weld them on for me. When I got the headers on the drivers side was hitting the motor mount so I clearanced that.
Had to make two new holes in the crank pulley because the TCI damper is set up for a Chevy 3 bolt system rather than an Olds 4 bolt. I'm rather fond of this Screw Transfer Set I found online. Made making the holes a whole bunch easier. Screw them in, place the pulley on and give it a good whack with a hammer and they transfer the location precisely. I've always loved machine shop stuff and this is just a handy item and all for only $14.10.
Back to the big things (the heads) soon.

 

Few more:

 

At least the holes were on the same base circle.

Looks great!

- Eric

 

"At least the holes were on the same base circle."

Well not quite. I had to elongate the one I used and open it to 3/8th. It's very slight and since the pulley is hub centric it's a go!

 

i have some trouble finding that cylinder block water drain plugs / bolts you replaced...

do you have a link or something?

thanks
kay

 

Found the same thing.

 

EightballZ, it's just a 1/4 NPT (National Pipe Thread) brass plug and the other is a 1/4 NPT drain ****. Similar to what would be on a radiator, maybe even exactly. Hardware stores and plumber's supply places would have them. I know you are in Germany so you'll have to find SAE stuff vs metric.

 

EightballZ, that means you'll never find one.

They
re common as dirt over here, but I suspect completely unavailable in Germany.

I'd try US Amazon.

- Eric

 

Assembled the right head today and laid out the port dimensions so I can transfer it to the intake. As long as I stay within the black I'll be gtg with no overlap.

 

Nice work Trip!

 

Trip this is gonna be one sweet street machine.Are you planning to make a pass or two with it..

 

Somethin tells me he'll be making more than that.........

 

I'll be making one at least, until it goes under the time for not having a rollbar. At that point I'll probably escorted off the track.
Considering the nearest 1/4 track is in NH I might be able to bribe the Deliverance folk up there with moonshine and my sister. So two runs might be possible.

To be honest I've entertained the idea of making a roll bar that blends into the body but that may be too cheesy. Hey one pass might be enough.

 

Trip the idea about blending the roll cage in is a great idea and it is possible to make it blend at least a little bit, the heads look great and summer is almost here I cant wait to get a video from you on the engine running and your first pass down the strip!! Keep up the good work!

 

If I remember right 11.99 would require changes to a vehicle.Longer lug studs,on off fuel switch on the back of the car...and at least a 6pt cage,but that was a long time ago.I have a feeling your gonna get the boot even on street tires..although the track guys will love your ride and hate to do it. I'll also be looking for that video..

 

Another problem today while checking header to oil filter clearance. The filter is too long and big in diameter to fit. Since I'm using the diesel oil filter adapter with the cooling lines does someone know if these are longer than the standard oil filter adapter? If I could find my old one I could compare but it seems I put it in a 'safe place'.

Worse case scenario I'll have to find a shorter and thinner oil filter, hopefully that's possible.

 

What about an oil filter relocation kit? Always an option.

 

Hey Trip, yes they are longer I have several of each and the oil cooler ones are almost 3 inches longer but I have used them and had hooker headers and they fit? I used a wix gold filter which is the same size as the AC 24. But way better filter! I think in mPo I would try to make it work because the oil cooler helps the engine greatly! keeping the oil cooler. With the money and time and effort you put in to that motor! Where there's a will there is a way!!

 

I just saw that you had a mobil 1 filter, my Suzuki engine was drained of oil because of the mobil 1 filter, they changed our oil for free a The dealership but when about a dozen cars burned their motors up including us they found they were leaking then my neighbors Jeep lost all its oil and he was the president of the Central Florida Jeep club, he also found out the hard way. I dont know if they got that problem resolved but thought you might want to hear it. Suzuki dealerships all over central florida quit using them. Wix or KN are my preference. JMO

 

A Fram PH25 should fit the bill for what you are looking for.

 

442rocketdave, I got those Mobil1 for a song on a closeout deal from RockAuto. I've heard nothing but good about them until what you wrote so don't know. Regardless they won't fit down there.

I do have a remote filter mount but I'd prefer to have the filter where it's meant to be for now. I'll exhaust my options in that endeavor first before I go the other route.

RandyS, the PH 25 is only slightly smaller in length and diameter than the filter I have but I can try it, can't hurt.

And so it goes.....................

 

"The problem she is solved!" Inspector Clouseau

Went to NAPA and had them search me up a smaller filter............NAPA Gold 1042 (Wix?).

It's a little small but I think it will be fine. Might have to change the filter more often. It's rated at 9-11 GPM, 21 micron rating and 320 PSI burst rating.

 

Trip thats great now you can sell that boondogle of Mobil 1 filters and get those Wix gold and by the way that is the one I ran with my 2 inch pro stock headers. Tight clearance but it worked great and I changed the oil every 2000 miles! NO IF ANDS OR BUTTS LOL. I had the mondello high volume oil pump and no problems! Looks like your getting to a point where you will have it together soon!

 

thats nice looking engine work

 

Trip hope all is well. Any updates?

 

Dool Cat I put the engine on hold until I finished with the body work and frame. I'm about ready to separate the frame and body and begin on both of those for the winter.
Only thing I've done on the engine is thread the water pump holes after removing the nipples. I'm more confident in the threaded fittings should I need to do something down the road. I'm also not sure I need an axillary oil cooler so I may be putting just a plain oil filter adapter on it. I haven't given up just changed my direction for now. My next step is to brace the doors across the top so I can lift the body up without fear of it folding up. I have another thread named 'Tear Down' if you want to follow the body work and frame happenings.

 

Small update today. If you remember way back in this thread I had replaced the 3x Rochesters with a Demon Six Shooter set of carbs. I had previously sent the two outer carbs out to be worked on to get more cfm out of them because 750 total cfm wasn't going to cut it on the 496. I was glad I did because the outer carbs we're complete junk as delivered from Barry Grant. Too many problems to list here but they were fixed and now flow 365 cfm each.
While taking pics of my center carb for another thread on here I noticed the butterflies were loose on the throttle shaft. So rather than mess with it further I sent the carb out to get looked over by the guy who did the outboard ones. I'm happy to report it's done but listen to this crap. While running it on his checking engine he noticed within 5 minutes the float began to rise along with the fuel level until the engine just flooded itself out and died. Thinking there was something in the needle and seat he took it apart again and checked, all looked good. Back on the engine it dies again as the fuel level and float rise again. WTH? Turns out the sealing surface for the o-ring for the needle and seat is gouged and all dicked up right from BG. At 5.5 psi the fuel was creeping past the o-ring bypassing the needle and seat and flooding out the car. He repaired and cleaned up the casting and installed a slightly bigger o-ring used on alcohol applications. It ran perfect for over half an hour at various rpm and is fixed holding a steady fuel level throughout the test.
If any of you have a BG carb and it just doesn't run correctly take it apart. It is no wonder this guy is out of business. If anyone here is interested in a great carb man it is Dale at CFM Performance Carburetor. Most knowledgeable guy I know when it comes to Holley's. I'm not sure if he does other brands but worth a call to find out. He was recommended to me by Bill Travato. http://cfmperfcarbs.com/HomePage.html

 

Cleaned up the original 66 VC breather I got from Octania and the oil filter adapter I took off the 330 that's being replaced with the 496. My plan is to modify the Offy VC's to make it all work. I never liked the breather stand offs the Offy's had so out they come!
It may not look totally original but it will have semblance of originality when done.

 

following With big open eyes , Nice build

 

Oh look what arrived yesterday! Not perfect but better than my original plan.

 

OK what are those for?

 

Heat block offs for the L69 intake, Tri-Carb

 

Are those the ones I see on eBay ?

 

I got them from Mike Richards who is a contributor here and on RoP.

 

Repaired and painted an original VC breather I picked up and cleaned and repainted the oil filter adapter I'll be using. I decided the oil cooler one was a bit overkill for what I had so I'm using the basic one. VC breather looks a little glossier in the pics but that's a semi gloss I have on it.

 

Been a long time! I had an issue I kept under my hat for awhile but yesterday it was fixed. My heads came fully assembled and 'ready to go'. Well not so much. Any of you who have followed this thread and my 'Tear Down' thread on the body and frame know of some of the crap I've put up with.
My **** retentive nature and general attention to detail makes me take things apart and inspect rather than taking someones word for it. My 'ready to go' heads had a nice crack under the #5 intake valve spring pocket. I filled the valve spring pocket with brake clean and watched as it dripped right through into the intake port. The crack was almost invisible from the intake port but the brake clean dripping through doesn't lie.
You can imagine my anger and frustration but since I no longer do business with the seller I set out on my own to fix the problem. After much deliberation and discussion I settled on R&L Engines in Dover NH. Leo (the 'L' in R&L) hooked me up and did a great repair by grinding out the bad and used TIG from above and below to repair the pocket. Head got a new over sized valve guide, valve job and was pressure and vacuum tested thoroughly. R&L Engines specializes in cast iron and aluminum head, block, etc. repairs so I recommend them to anyone needing help. The shop was like a time warp when I walked in. Engines of all brands and sizes on pallets ready to be picked up. 7 big blocks were going out the door on my first trip there. I thought I was back in the 60's or 70's again.

 

Wow, you surely dodged a bullet (RPG) on that one. Your attention to detail surely paid off!! Great Job!

 

Yeah right? Can you imagine that oil and vacuum leak? I would have been scratching my head for a month.

 

Damn.

- Eric