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Motor built by Smitty for my 71 442 conv 5 speed
468 (4.185 Bore/4.25 stroke)
Edelbrock heads (older chamber design) milled to 72 ccs,ported 320/210 @ 600
Torker - port matched
7” scat rods
custom dish diamond pistons (-20 cc dish)
10.53:1 measured CR
Studs & Main straps
800 QJ (#17059253 from a 79 T/A)
Hyd roller 300/308, 238/246 @ .050, 602/614 (1.65), 108/104
2" Kooks headers
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Nice!

 

thatll never work tell you what ship it over to me and it will save the disapointment and aggravation....

J/K sounds awesome whats the intended use of the car ?

 

Thanks guys. The car is going to be mostly street driven and has a little of the protouring theme going. It's got AC, power windows, an amazing stereo, lots of sound deadener and then lots of fiberglass, aluminum, and other weight "loss" enhancements to make up for some of the luxery weight adders. Hoping to be around 3800 with me in it. Motor needs to go back into car with 3" exhaust. Will scale the car when I get it back on the road. Will make a few trips to the track each year (limited unless I add roll bar- that's another story), maybe some solo II track events (again dependent on roll bar) and lots and lots of street driving with the top down. Just relocated to Va beach so looking forward to a little more driver friendly weather compared to DC/Northern VA.

Here are some pics of the car. Paint and body will be after the motor:

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with SS1 Olds caps:
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Interior pics:
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Details on rest of car:
3" (X-pipe , Dynomax Mufflers, tailpipes, & Olds trumpets)
Be Cool Alum Radiator w/dual elect fans
Richmond 5 speed (Road Race trans-gears 3.04, 2.13, 1.57, 1.24. 1.00)
McLeod – “street twin” clutch & SFI approved scattershield
Brian Trick - Chevy 12 bolt posi 3.31 gears,Moser Axels, TA Perf girdle cover
Rear Suspension: Hotchkis adj upprs, Jegs adj lwers, 1” drop Hotchkis springs, air bags, 1” Hotchkis sway bar, QA1 12 way adjustable shocks
Front Suspension: QA1 Pro Coil Over system w/12 way adj QA1 shocks
Hotchkis tubular upper control arms, Global West tubular lower control arms, Hotchkis 1.5” Hallow sway bar, B Body tall spindles
Brakes (manual): Baer 13” rotors front, Baer 12” rotors rear, Hurst roll control
AGR Steering box
18x8 Olds SSIs (NewGen 500s) Front rims - 255/45/18 Nitto 555
18x10 Olds SSIs (NewGen 500s) Rear rims - 305/45/18 Nitto Drag Radials
Factory AC with upgraded compressor - Pro6ten hiperformance 21 lbs lighter than stock (15lbs vs 36)
Stereo: Alpine 9805 CD player w/removable face plate, front speakers = high output Boston Acoustics Pro Series 5 1/4” split channel – replaced Custom Autosound speakers inside the kick panels, flush mounted 5 ¼”” Bouston Acoustic CRX57 2 way speakers in the rear. 2 x 10” 100 watt JL Audio subwoofers and a 500x5 watt JL Audio amp kit in the trunk to add some extra power to the system.

 

Congrats on the great engine build. Should be lots of fun.

Your build shows 3.31 gears yet you have a Richmond 5 speed with 1:1 5th. Are you planning a gear swap to a 2.56-3.08?. 3.31s are an odd choice with that trans. I have the same trans in my '65 442 & run 2.73s in the Chevy 12 bolt behind a stout 461 BBO.

Great looking car by the way. Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

Thanks Dave. I like the 3.31 gears with my set up. My rear tires are 305/45/18 - almost 29" tall. Launch is the same as 4.56 gears with an M21/M22, should set up nice to cross the traps in 3rd right in the power band for the 1/4 mile (looking forward to testing that)...and can cruise at 75 mph at around 2800 RPM on the highway.

-Joe

 

Sounds like a killer bullet you had built.

 

I see a new set of tires in the near future.

 

With all the low end TQ of the new engine you do not need that much rear gear. If this was only about straight line acceleration you would not have chosen a convertible. Your combination will be much more versatile with 2.73 gears. 3.08s are not enough of a change to warrant swapping from the 3.31s. Too bad there are no 2.93 gears for the Chevy 12 bolt as they would be a perfect choice with your tire combo. I wonder how far the car will actually move before you are kicking the clutch & reaching for 2nd gear?. I am also a little concerned for the TQ handling ability of the Richmond 5 speed. You are certainly pressing the envelope there. Let us know when you road test her how it all comes together. Once again awesome car & if you are looking to give it away I'll be sure to get in line .

 

One detail I didn't include above or mention in my last response is I have the road race version of the Richmond 5 speed and it has a 3.04 1st instead of the 3.31 that is standard. (3.04, 2.13, 1.57, 1.24. 1.00). Also supposedly the Road Race version is a little stronger than the standard Richmond but I am fully aware I'll be pushing things. If the trans goes I would probably upgrade to the G Force GF5R 5 speed with very similar if not the exact same gears. Hoping that doesn't happen (extremely expensive trans) but at least I know that one could handle a pounding. I've spoken to a few guys runnig that with much more ft lbs than I have.

-Joe

 

Nice job Joe. What wheels are those, they look great!!

 

Thanks Mark. The wheels are New Gen 500s.

18x8 Olds SSIs (NewGen 500s) Front rims - 255/45/18 Nitto 555
18x10 Olds SSIs (NewGen 500s) Rear rims - 305/45/18 Nitto Drag Radials

They are basically 18" SSI's. Not sure if they make them anymore but I believe there are some other companies out there that are now making 18 x 9.5 wheels that look like the SSIs. I think New Gen stopped making wheels for a while and then started back up with a new owner. Not sure of all the details but they used to be big on Lateral G net and protouring.com.

-Joe

 

They look killer with the Olds caps. So much better than the flat caps.

 

Thanks Richard and I hope so. Those caps were really expensive. Had to be custom made as they are much larger than the stock ones so they look correct on the 18" wheels.

 

It's the little details that make the difference. When I built my 66 I had as much money in my front calipers I could have bought new Wilwoods but I never got tired of explaining the question "Dude where did you get those calipers"

 

Hahaha - I remember those calipers with OLDSMOBILE on them right? Those were bad ***. If I had open rims that showed my calipers more I was going to pay you to make me a set.

 

Now thats the ponies I am after. That will cause you wiplash. lol

 

I take it she is a BB

 

Yes.

 

I am able to get this power out of a SBO stroker? I would think so, but you the doc Doctor Mark. lo

 

Yes, you can make 500hp and probably 525tq with the right combination.
You won't have quite as much stroke on a DX stroker as in a 455 so the tq won't come in as quick but they make great power and the blocks are way stronger, way stronger.

 

Awesome, that's all I needed to hear. I will have to call you soon. Have a good one doc

 

Glass front fenders?

Awesome build!

 

Thanks!

Glass fenders, glass front bumper, repro glass hood, & trunk. About a 100 lb drop and they will never rust!!

Another 100 lb drop for the aluminum heads, intake, and water pump and another 50+ for aftermarket AC compressor, Charcoal stuff removed, & lots of cutting on the core support.

Every little bit helps!

-Joe

 

I agree, weight is in important part of a performance build. I didn't do much before/after scaling, but with aluminum heads and intake, no AC, lightweight battery, no heavy factory front seats, aluminum radiator and a few other small things, should be headed the right direction. I'm considering a fiberglass hood, but want to keep steel bumpers for the sake of minor fender benders. Only weight I've added is sound deadening on the floor and those heavy Oldsmobile cast valve covers.

 

Here's some more pics:

Brian Trick's handy work on lightening the core support:
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Lots of work by Brian to get the fender/door gap looking decent:

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pic with glass bumper installed. Sorry it's a little blurry:



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Still lots of paint and body work to go but Brian did a great job and spent many hours getting it to this point. I don't have any pics of the glass trunk but he spent lots of time on that too. Hoping the motor will be back in the car and I'll have the car back in a month or so (we'll see how things go with the snow). Will update with some more pics and progress then.

-Joe

 

It all took a lot of work.The bumper wasn't as easy to work with as the others,with all of the openings filled solid.It made it real stiff.It still needs some help,or a regular one with all the openings.The chin spoiler mocked-up pretty good with a steel bumper,so I know it is the glass bumper that is not the best at the bottom.

As for the gears,it had 3:31's,then I put 2:73's in it,then changed it back to 3:31's.
The console has the opening set back about 1 1/4" from stock,due to the Richmond 5-spd placing the shifter slightly farther back.This allows the shifter to function in all gears,without hitting the boot plastic.I customized a stick,to get the correct offset & position.I trimmed a dual gate front top plate for the front of the console,and shortened a 4-spd rear top plate for the rear section.