I ran across a 455 and i could get it fairly reasonable. The numbers I found were 396021 F. So from what i can tell that makes it the basic 455. I did find the # on the flat spot below the driver side head that says 30F136144 which I'm guessing makes it a 1970, it does have an E on each of the heads. The owner said it is all original with the exception of the holley carb and edelbrock performer intake. It is out of the car so i have to take the owners word that it does run good. I brought a socket and breaker bar and it did turn over freely. Does anyone know what this motor is from? Any idea of the stock hp? What is an engine like this worth if you can't hear it run?

 

My .02 If I can't hear it run it is a core that needs rebuilding. $300 to $500 at most.

 

He is asking $750. Do you know what the 30F136144 engine is?

 

I'm getting lost on the "f" most I have seen have been M like 31Mxxxxxx I don't know how to identify the engine

 

You have identified it about as far as you can. The numbers after the F are the body build numbers (VIN derivative) and don't have any info as to what the engine is. Since it doesn't have the original intake/carb you don't even know if it was originally a 2bbl or 4bbl engine.

The F is the assembly plant location, which would be Framingham (M=Lansing).

edit: I was wrong, F = Flint as posted below.

 

3-oldsmobile
0-1970
F-I'm guessing Flint Assembly plant but I could be wrong


The rest is an assembly plant sequential number.

 

Fairly certainly a run of the mill RWD Big Car [88/98]


Could possibly have big valve E heads, can't tell w/o removing heads and accurately measuring.


A lot can still be wrong with a motor that spins. pounded bearings, etc.
Tear down and see or pay less accordingly.


You might look at the rear of the crank, find the notch in the OD of the flexplate flange, see if it is C shaped with 3 sides = cast iron crank, or J shaped with 2 sides [one really long] = forged crank.

 

If the letter really were an "F", it would stand for Flint. Since no Oldsmobiles were ever built in the Flint plant, that's more likely an "E" with a faint lower leg. Look again. "E" means the Linden, NJ assembly plant. Yes, that is a 1970 block and heads.

 

My 2 cents, I bought two complete 455's from a guy in Nebraska 5 years ago, one with Ga Heads and the other with E heads. Both sitting for a spell. $330 for the pair.

Both were free... I tore both down, both blocks fine, both cranks good. Chose the GA heads as they had hardened seats already.. Sold the other engine for $300...

 

I have bought a total of 4 core 455 engines ranging from $150 - $250. One had a Torker intake, and another had HS roller rockers. I feel the price is a little high for a core engine. If it was still in a car and could be tested, in good running condition, than absolutely it would be worth $750. If you were overseas, or somewhere that cores were hard to come by, thn I would say go for it. You are in cheddar land, cores are plentiful.
JMHO good luck, Dave - The Freak

 

That is the price they ask around here. I picked up a great running 76 350 for $120, brought him down from $150. He had a knocking 455, could tell he wanted a lot more, I wasn't interested. People want $700-$1000 for smoggers and knocking junk. I come in a pick up the 350's for cheap. The 455 is notorious for bottom end problems. Tell him you want to pull the pan and check bearings.

 

News to me.

 

I have a 1970 Cutlass Supreme with the 455-400

The BEST engine I have ever had under the hood of any car I have ever driven.

I only drive mine in the summer these days but it is almost 50 years old and still is the most fuel efficient engine that can also have no problem going 0 - 120mph FAST and I yearly drive it up a steep mountain with a nicely paved road from 0 - 100mph (that is what we use for bragging rights here )

I got it in 1979 and for the first 10 years it was my drive to work car.

I wish it was a warm sunny day because I would be taking it out for a drive

 

I should add when pushed hard. Heard that from my ex BIL, who blew up two of them. He seriously tried blowing up the mid 70's 350 that replaced it, burned oil from install and he bagged it. Never died despite running a couple liters low. Also a shop bought them when they were plentiful and their cost $100 each. They street raced them with nitrous, which ended badly. How many failed BBO builds show up on these forums, too many. Yes, there are more built but many more failures than 350 builds. Big heavy parts don't like high rpm.

 

Sounds like the problem may not be the 455...

Keep in mind that while it may be hard to believe, not everyone here is intending to run their 455s all day long at the track with a 300 HP shot of nitrous.

 

True enough Joe and the damaged ones for sale here are usually the high compression version's bagged to hell no doubt. Most of the mid 70's 455's out Delta 88's are advertized as good runners. I personally would want to pull the pan on any motor costing $750. I took the gamble a couple of times but one was with a fixable 76 Cutlass for $50 and the other $120.

 

I certainly don't disagree with you when the price creeps up. I've also bought a number of cores in the $150-$200 range and didn't really bother to inspect because they were cheap enough.

 

I just picked up a smogger 455 motor that was not stuck. Greasy but i think i will see if it will run. It has all the parts. It has those powerful J heads that everyone wants.He he On a side note i don't race every 455 i get. Right now i have two bare standard blocks and one complete running 455 then the 455 i mentioned above. I have three 455's for racing

 

Do you still have them? Where are you located? I am in need of a rebuildable block. Mine is cracked.

 

kinda funny from a guy with 403 in his user name

 

I picked up 2 425s with A and B heads, a freshly machined 455 crank, some junk intakes , boxs of distributors and pulleys for $200, so the deals are still out there in my part if the country, plus the guy has some E heads that are mine when he finds them