Newbie with a 1965 - 442 that has a (1968-9) 455 in it.

I am finally moving forward on my car. I got it to the shop and they started going over everything. sadly the 455 the previous owner put in it is seized up and won't turn at all. The car has been sitting for a few years with the engine assembled and the hood on - so I am hoping it is still a serviceable block and was not not trashed when they parked it (according to them it was "in good shape"... LOL)

The shop that is doing the work will remove/install any engine I choose but they do not rebuild them so I have to take is elsewhere regardless.

To save a few bucks I am thinking about having them just pull the engine and then taking it back to my place to break it down and see what is going on inside. Maybe it can be freed up and rebuilt?


I am pretty mechanical but certainly not overly knowledgeable. Is this something I can tackle (breaking it down) and freeing it up?

If so - what tips can you offer to possibly free it up and what in your opinion would be the point that I say the heck with it, it will cost more in time and $ to rebuild than to just purchase something else.

I would really like to keep the 455 if possible... If it were not seized up I would have taken it down to the block anyway.

Thanks for your input.

Todd

 

To save a few bucks I am thinking about having them just pull the engine and then taking it back to my place to break it down and see what is going on inside. Maybe it can be freed up and rebuilt?
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What prevents you from pulling the motor yourself? For what a shop would charge you can buy a cherry picker. Tork converter will have to come out with it if you can't turn the engine to access those screws. That will make a bit of a mess so be prepared. I have the special tool required to remove the TC bolts after the engine is out.

Yes of course you will tear the engine down. Then you will know exactly what can be saved and what is scrap. Once you get the heads off you will have a good idea. Could be just a bit of rust sticking a piston or could be water got in, froze repeatedly, broke the cylinder wall out, shoved the piston down until the rod bent to an S, then pushed the crank out of the block. I have torn down that engine. Really. Saved the crank, by the way. Not much else...

I revived a 0-miles 425 that was unable to spin over. 2-3 valves had become stuck. Removed heads, freed the valves, bought straight pushrods, voila'.

You can't GUESS what is wrong in there, just dig in. Anyone with any good tool selection can dismantle an engine. Might need to borrow/ rent a FEW things like a balancer puller. You will need a 12-pt 9/16 universal socket to get some of the hard to access rod bolts off if it still won't turn at that point. An air impact will make it a lot easier. A beasty hardwood or AL stick to tap the pistons out with is a good idea.

 

X2 and that is whY it must be disassembled and evaluated.

 

x3. Can't add anything meaningful to that!

- Eric

 

To help free the pistons, one trick I've used is to put a little trans fluid on the tops of the pistons and let it soak down. After doing this, give each piston a solid tap with a hammer through a wooden or aluminum rod as Octania said. They may not come out the first time, so do this once a day for a few days and they should come free. Good luck man, and definitely pull the motor yourself! You don't learn if you don't try!