Kiwi DJ

I have a F block (68-72 ) that has been rebuilt with a Performer manifold, 750 Holley, factory HEI, Ka heads that have had the heat X port blocked, heads have had a port clean up only not milled, Comp cam 42-208-4, Headman headers mellings hi flow oil pump,2200 stall convertor, 3.08 diff, etc etc , while I realise that this combination of parts may not be perfectly suitable it's what I can get locally.Its very differcult to get Olds bits in New Zealand when all the local suppliers can only spell f*#d or Ch*#y.
The motor runs Ok but I feel it can do better, so the questions are ..
with a HEI what would be the total advance at what revs?
Whats the ideal diff ratio? sometimes a race warrior but still able to drive around town?
Who is the best supplier of restrictor push rods? dont say Mon***o as have sent several emails and still no reply and would try and support suppliers on this site
thanks in advance
DJ

cutlassefi

Normally with a big block anything in the mid 3's for a rear gear works well. What's the compression ratio?
Sorting out you timing curve will certainly help, most often about 35 degrees total all in by 3000 or so would be a good starting point. Might want to make sure your carb is jetted correctly as well. All the little things add up.

When you say it runs o.k., explain. Does it have the power you hoped for? What were your expectations? Low end? Midrange?
And unless you're going to run it at high rpm for long periods restricted anything in the valvetrain is unnecessary imo.

leadfoot067

restricted pushrods,i got mine here

http://www.pushrods.net/

dc2x4drvr

x2

geckonz08

I am in new zealand --wellington -- have a spare set I believe --check the lengths you need --probably murphys law ?
mike

geckonz08

sorry , just realised , restricted rods ---didn`t read properly --nasty trick, apologise

cutlassefi

Kiwi - why do you think you need restricted pushrods?

And just an fyi, imo your cam is backwards. For a stock headed Olds you normally need lobes that are faster or at least as fast on the intake than on the exhaust. The exhaust side typically needs more help than the intake.

Run to Rund

Your dual energy cam, 211 I and 223 E duration at .050" should be a good mild street cam. The extra exhaust duration is good.
With proper Olds type lifters, you won't need restrictors. Chevy lifters meter too much oil to the rockers. Comp offers restricting pushrods, Hi-Tech series, 5/16" but not long enough ones for a 455.

Run to Rund

You can also check with Smith Brothers
http://www.pushrods.net/index.html

and Trend
http://www.trendperform.com/

Kiwi DJ

thanks for the speedy replies
The reason I think its down on power is I would have thought the tires would have dissapeared in smoke The air fuel ratio across the rev range appears to be ok.
the oil pressure is of concern, as it starts cold 50lbs at 750 rpm. Then drops away to 30lbs at 3000rpm then slowly raises back up to 45lbs when warm, and at idle its 15 lbs. I'm using fram filter a remote filter housing as the headers are tight, the total lenght of the hoses are 3feet ( return and supply)I may have installed pontiac lifters by mistake but would not have thought that it could make a difference??
DJ

cutlassefi

That's a little confusing, what is it running down the road when hot? At idle when hot?

Pontiac and Olds lifters are the same.

Kiwi DJ

the oil pressure is of concern, as it starts cold 50lbs at 750 rpm. Then drops away to 30lbs at 3000rpm then slowly raises back up to 45lbs when warm, and at idle its 15 lbs
sorry.. thats running down the road when the oils hot.The most noticiable difference is when traveling down the road holding the revs at a steady 3000 thats when the oil pressure drops away then comes back up again. The oil pressure falls away and raises again at 2000 rpm but not as quick. It makes no difference if the car is just reving in park or moving. When hot the oil pressure at 750 rpm is 1o /15 lbs not enough to bring on the warning lite. There is no bearing or any other noises ..yet?

Kiwi DJ

thanks to those that suggested Smith Bros for the push rods.I found their sevice to be outstanding and not long after posting on here Mon#$%o came back with a reply which was over $100 dearer and freight over $50 dearer ... go figurer
The engine rebuilder has suggested the oil relief valve is faulty and will be looking at the motor next week
cheers

cutlassefi

Sounds like the right place to start imo.

Run to Rund

Also be sure the extra oil lines are big enough, oil pan capacity is enough. Get rid of that Fram and get a better filter like wix 51258.

made in the usa

i have had some pressure problems in the past and the fram filter was the down fall. i wont touch them and the sad part is my mom works for fram. i had one car we put a fram filter on and lost all pressure took it off and put on a wix and problem solved

Rickman48

X5 on the Fram - known problem!!
Might also check the return holes in the heads for broken valve seals - I've found some pretty big pieces there!