Can a stock 455 crankshaft be machined for a pilot bushing? I currently have a 4 speed in my 455 but have a Mondello pilot bearing (which requires a plate between the bell housing and transmission to prevent interference from the steps behind the splines on the input shaft). In preparation for the new Muncie rock crusher that I have ordered I would like to get the crank machined for a normal pilot bushing.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

 

 

By the way, your bigger problem will be finding the correct manual trans pedals for an Olds B-body. The clutch linkage and Z-bar is unobtanium, so just plan on running hydraulic.

 

I remember your thread from a few years ago. You were running a hydraulic cylinder from Speedway, I think. Anyway, how did the Mondello “sneaker” bearing work after you got the correct distance with the spacer? Did you have to Dial in the bell housing?

 

BCA7109 is the correct bearing for an Olds using that diagram.

I did it and it works perfectly.

 

It worked great but this time I want to do what I should have done in the first place--get the crank machined....

 

Joe,

Thanks and I already have a 4 speed (Saginaw) installed but would like to correct things when I take out the engine and trans.

The clutch pedal is from a Camaro and, since there is lots of room and it's very pretty, I kept the original big brake pedal.... Had to get a longer grade 8 shoulder bolt in the correct diameter to accommodate both pedals.

The first go round I used a hydraulic master cylinder and slave cylinder from a Ram. It worked but I later changed it to a Wilwood master cylinder and hydraulic throwout bearing. Originally I had a 3/4" (I believe 3/4") master cylinder and it was terribly difficult to push the pedal. After switching to a 1/2" master cylinder it works great. The only problem is that you have to measure and calculate the throwout bearing clearance really accurately since the 1/2" diameter piston provides less volume. I'll be pulling the engine and trans in one piece and will measure the throwout bearing clearance with a feeler gauge to make sure that that little master cylinder provides enough travel to disengage the clutch as well as it does now. Last time I think that luck, and some accurate measurements, worked. I'll do the same but make sure that there is only enough clearance before putting the engine and trans assembly back in the car. I'm getting old and working under the car is no longer fun.

Kennybill,

It works fine.

My442,

Thanks for the info.

Chris