Putting in the new cam tomorrow evening after work and through Friday during the day. I assume this will be a 4 to 5 hour job start to finish?

Went with the Lunati 60802 262/269 cam. I am looking for any pointers or tips. I have never done a cam before on an Oldsmobile or any car for that matter.

It should be pretty straight forward I assume. I know I need to pull the intake, valve covers, water pump, timing cover, fuel pump etc. I read to get the old cam out I need to remove rockers, push rods, lifters, distributor etc, put a bolt into cam and slide it out slowly.

I also need to remove radiator correct? I doubt there is enough room to pull a cam with radiator in.

How long should this installation take from start to finish?

Is there any tips that will help speed this up?

Is there anything besides the obvious that I need to know ahead of time like a dont do this or be sure to do that type stuff?

As far as the cam and lifters go I just need to soak lifters in oil and prime them by pumping the ends with a pushrod correct?

Speaking of pushrods should I go buy new since I'm replacing cam and lifters or will current rods (as long as there straight) be sufficient or should I replace anyways just to be safe? I don't mind replacing I just don't want to waste money if I don't have it.

Any other information will be gladly appreciated. Just trying to make sure the process is fluid, easy and has no hiccups. Figured with all the knowledge on here there is probably an easy way to do everything. I just dont want to run into the hidden problem where I need to run and track down a special tool or puller or whatever if I can research what to do prior.

Hopefully after I install this cam my rough idle and other issues will improve. I believe the current cam is way to big for current valve train so thats why the car runs like crap.

 

You're on the right track. Radiator, fan, water pump, timing cover, fuel pump, timing chain, intake manifold, valve covers, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, distributor all have to come off.

If you are replacing the timing chain, you need to remove the balancer as well. Here's a video to help too:

 

Yea, I bought all new cam, lifters, timing chain, seals and gaskets, intake, rockers, HEI, and other odd's and ends. Quite possibly a set of pushrods if people think I need a set or if existing will suffice.

 

I would spend the money and replace them, several of mine had slight bends in them when I did my cam about a month ago. Wish I would have had them on hand instead of having to run to the store to get some.

 

Well, 4 or 5 hours might be a little wishful thinking, just pulling everything off will take several hours.
I would recommend degreeing the cam. The most accurate way to determine if your pushrods are the correct length is to use a pushrod checker. Do you have roller rockers, or stock valve train, which valve springs?
Gotta ask...

 

I consider it foolish to install a cam and not degree it in.

Another $100 or so in tooling
crank socket
degree wheel
pointer
magnetic base dial indicator
piston stop

And an hour or so to do all that.

You may however elect to roll the dice and just install the cam and line up your marks. Take a photo before buttoning it up, in case something goes wrong later, you can look at the picture and assure yourself that the marks are aligned right.

oh and mark the cam's dist drive gear with e.g. white paint pen when cam is at TDC #1 firing position- makes finding that later [dist'r install time] super easy.

 

Stock valve train on big valve C heads. I have no rockers but not rollers. Friend gave them to me. Might not use them as mine as fine. But yea, everything on the heads are stock to my knowledge. Right now the cam thats in there is a 292 and it's WAAAAY to big for the engine. If you read my dreaded 455 thread you will see why I'm swaping and such. Supposedly this cam will give me a little bump in performance, keep idle quality with a little chop, and will work on stock valve train with no stall.

Never degreed a cam before. I guess I will try and read on how to do this correctly.

 

No, I will attempt to degree it. Wasn't sure if that was needed or not so sounds like its the right way to do things. I will burrow a setup from a buddy and then see if I can locate someone who knows how to do it to help.

I was originally going to do it without degree as long as timing marks, valves and piston all were correct. I figured if all that was correct chances are it would be correct slipping new one in. But, I don't want to get anything screwed up so would much rather do it right than fix it twice.

 

Just curious, have you ever removed the timing chain cover with the balancer still on?

 

You kinda can't - the crank goes through a hole, and you can't pull the cover back from its mating position with the oil pan far enough to allow it to rotate out of the way. Not only that, but you wouldn't be able to remove the crank sprocket, and I doubt you'd be able to finagle the chain over and around the cover.

- Eric

 

That's kinda what I was alluding to, just curious why he worded it that way.

 

This may sound nut's, but since I have an engine picker and stand, I just pull the engine for anything like this now. Far less chance of damaging the car's exterior paint, and great opportuniity to clean up, and paint the engine and engine compartment. The way I now do it, anyway.

 

I was actually going to suggest this, but did not want to get creamed. If you have the time, get everything cleaned up nice before, pull the engine and take your time detailing the engine compartment. Look at the upper "A" arm bushing, good time to replace them if needed. Get new mounts, another PITA with the engine in. It is also MUCH easier to find TDC and degree the cam. I would not pull the heads, but replace all the other gaskets, drop the pan, makes putting the front cover on also much easier. The stock (heavy) intake is much easier to get installed correctly, too. Leave the dist out when dropping the engine back in.

 

I have fender pads that are soft padding on bottom, thick leather on top. I also will be removing radiator, radiator top, front grills(just so I can fix them) and after that, not much else left to get damaged. My fender pads work awesome and unless I stand on them and jump I could not see the fender getting damaged in any way. I've never done a cam before but timing chains, oil pan gaskets, intakes, etc I've always done with engine in car. Now, If I had a stand and picker and the added time to be able to dissconnect everything and an extra hand to help I would probably pull the engine and do it out of car just for the simple fact of easier to get to things out of body but that would be it. The thought of damaging anything never crosses my mind due to my fender pads and other measures I go to make sure even if accidental drop of a tool nothing gets damaged.

Once I get moved into my new digs that is the first tool on my list. Engine picker and Stand.

 

I have all brand new tubular Arms, with bushings, bolts, joints, sway bar links, springs, shocks, rotors pads, etc. But yea I see what your saying in General Jim, that removing the engine for major stuff allows a person to get to other things easier. Cause if I had it to do over again and the ness tools to yank an engine I would have sooner done that than what I went through trying to get a bolt out of the control arm from the wheel well with no room to tap it out.

I bought a master gasket kit which has everything but head gaskets. I plan on jacking engine up enough to get the timing cover replaced but as of now the full pan will need to wait until I get a picker. Luckily I am not reusing my factory cast iron intake. I have a nice performer on it's way along with some nice hedman headers.

Thanks for the tips, and like I mentioned in my last reply when I move my next investment is an engine hoist and stand and possibly a floor lift.

 

No, brainfart.

 

Couple other things of mention. Since you're talking engine picker, beware of the cheapo's with short boom lengths, as might not be long enough. I use a lifting plate, that bolts in place of the carb, that works fine. Also, you gotta remove the balancer, so you'll need a puller. You can rent one, but I just bought one, as works well for other things, like steering wheels.

 

Springs? That's a real fast cam.

 

I did not buy springs as lunati told me on the phone that the cam is basically equivalent to an "RV" cam or a step or 2 above stock. I did what was mentioned above and I called before I ordered and we went over everything on the car from heads to rear end and thats the cam the recommended. They said any small I probably wouldn't notice any different over stock and any larger and I would need a stall and possibly head work. Of course this is Lunati telling me this I am not sure how well they are Olds guys I just assumed from the comment above about calling the cam makers and talking to them they could steer me right since they build and test cams on stock and modded engines.

I know from reading and recommendations that your the man to talk to when it comes to cams so I will trust your input on this over Lunati.


I did not plan on doing springs on the heads but If I have to I can order a set. Is it possible to do springs after the cam and everything is all bolted up and on? I guess what I am saying is I don't have to yank heads right?

 

Come to think of it I may need new springs anyways. Running a huge *** 292 in it now has GOT to be putting some strain on the current springs.

 

Sure - just get one o' them spark plug hole air-chucks, or, if you're "old fashioned," use the "rope trick."

I won't say it's "easy" to change out the springs, but it's definitely not hard.

- Eric

 

When you say rope trick your referring to shoving rope into the cyl to stop the valve from falling in there while your removing the springs and retainers? Thanks for the information Eric

 

That's the one!

Oldie but goodie.

I think the sure is a bit easier (certainly more positive), but the rope should work fine if done carefully.

- Eric

 

I've changed valve springs, with the heads on car, using compressed air, and wasn't to bad. Another tool though, as you'll be needing a valve sping compressor. Don't like the rope idea though, as sometimes the retainers need some light hammering to break loose. Depending on how the rope's jammed in there, you could risk bending a valve.

 

I wouldn't worry about bending a valve from a quick hammer tap, but I would say that it's overall simpler and easier to just use the air attachment.

- Eric

 

I didn't need to change springs. I thought I remembered that the springs were not stock and they are in fact Lunati springs already on the heads.

I got the old cam out, timing chain was worn and gears were rounded on tips. Trashed it and installed the new cam, lubed the lobes, put oil on the bearings, installed lifters with cam lube on bottoms. I didn't soak or pump up lifters as most of the threads I found on here said that any more you can just lube the bottoms, pour oil down on top of them, then pre-oil the system before firing up and it will fill the lifters up. Found a ton of threads telling people to do this so thats basicly what I did. I left off tonight with new cam in and degreed, lifters and push rods in, timing chain installed with key way installed, all surfaces cleaned and gasket removed.

I bought an Edelbrock intake would I still need to do the punch little dimples in the intake trick if im using an aluminum intake? I thought I read to not do this only on cast iron intake. I just don't want to risk the bead of RTV black popping out after I install the intake like the rubber seals did on the old intake.

If my estimates are correct I should have the car able to test fire by tomorrow morning early. I want to get it back together enough to do a test fire so I can make sure its all done right before I bolt every last thing on. Less I would have to take back off if I did something wrong. Thoughts on this! Will starting it and letting it run for a min or 2 hurt the new cam? I wont let it run long enough to really heat up I just want to make sure the cars going to fire up is all.

 

Well alrighty, then.

A fine example of why never to trust the work that the "last guy" did (no, not Eric, the guy before him).

My personal opinion is, No.
A decent (but not excessive) bead or RTV should squeeze out a bit on both sides, which will prevent it's moving in either direction - I think the "dimpling" step is unnecessary (though I am open to differing opinions based on experience).

Personally, I don't think so, so long as you treat it as part of the cam break-in process, but I'm curious to see what any of the more experienced builders suggest.
I completely understand the desire to be sure you didn't forget anything before completely buttoning it up.

- Eric

 

Another thing, since didn't hear much mention about it. Aftermarket performance cams sometimes have a smaller base circle grind, meaning you'll need longer push rods than stock. Hopefully you addressed this before starting the engine, but just thought good thing to bring up. When I built up my latest 455 engine, used a Dave Smith adjustible rocker kit, so sets up just like a Chevy or Pontiac.

 

Eric, thanks for the tips. Thats exactlly that I didn't want to do is button it all the way up, it not fire, all because I did something wrong that could have been found out before it was buttoned up.

Deleta, According to Lunati when I called then longer pushrods would not be ness with this particular cam. Now, weather thats true or not I will soon find out as I am beginning to button up the top of motor.

 

Oh yea!! She runs under her own power again!!! Took me roughly 10 hours to do the install. Tear down was less than an hour with cam out. I wasted a ton of time getting the timing cover installed with new gasket. Even with the first 4 bolts of the pan out I could not get enough of it down to install the timing cover. I ended up having to fashion wedges and slowly tap them in pushing the pan down. Then the cover went in easy enough. I also spent an hour degree the cam. I wanted to make sure it was correct so I did it a few times over and over with the help of a buddy who showed me how.

Took me a couple hours running around to find correct size plugs for all the extra holes Edelbrock puts in there intakes. I put back together a little slower as I wanted to make sure it was done right first time. I dropped in some Penn break in oil for the cam and test fired with cover off so I could make sure everything was correct. She ran rough for a second or 2 and had a slight vibration due to balancer being off but she ran and sounded good.

Now I have it all buttoned up, radiator hooked up, I had a couple small water leaks but I fired it up and let it run for about 20 mins. Ran cool and good the only thing I am worried about is the passenger side had what appeared to be smoke coming out but not really smoke. It looked like it was winter time and you could see the exhaust. It dissipated rather quickly so it wasn't oil smoke or even water like in bad intake or head water smoke. Like I said, it dissipated way to quick to be oil or water. If anything it was slight moisture from possibly a little antifreeze in the intake when I pulled the old off. It seemed to clear up after a while but driver side was good and never did this. Like I mentioned it reminded me of a car in winter where you could see the exhaust. It is very wet out today and humid not sure if that played any role.

Happy to hear it idle better, brake pressure is good. I turned idle down to 800 and it loped pretty nice. Very noticeable but not to bad. Enough to have a slight shake at idle but not enough to drive you nuts. The previous cam at idle would shake the entire car and motor giving you a head ache. Now it's settled down a ton. It will probably get even better once I get the old points out and slap the HEI in which is all I have left to do.

The only thing I did not install was the block off plugs for the heads. The instructions were hazy they said only if the application is for full race where constant WOT would be present or marine use file down the plugs. The plugs were so huge that there was no filing down. The one side of the head crossover port was half the size of the other so the edelbrock plugs would have to been cut in half. I just didn't have the tools ness to cut the plugs down so much. I wont be doing many if any WOT passes down a drag strip so I don't think this applies to me.

 

I don't know the exact history on my car but I know the previous owner did not plug the crossover and my intake manifold(Edelbrock Performer) cracked pretty good. I know that some on here have used folded over soda cans and hi-temp silicone to block the crossovers among other things. Either way I would strongly recommend doing this as repairing or buying another intake is an expensive proposition.

 

Well, that's just it. I understood it that unless you are racing or using it in marine application that requires alot of load or WOT constant exhaust flow it should not have to plug it. I am not even sure why Edelbrock even made the ports on the intake if it was meant to be plugged on every application. This car will rarely if ever see any WOT pulls. I plan on using this as my DD with some cruise in's on a Sat night as well.

However if I have to pull the intake back off for anything I will figure something else out to block off the passages. I know some folks have used metal and JB Weld and other crap.

Just my luck though, I finish the job and now the radiator is busted at the top and leaking. I do believe this was busted when I bought the car. I also have a small oil pan leak(Go Figure) however that's my next mission is to replace it completely. Drove the car around block, power is there, pulls decent at 1/4 throttle, didn't hit it hard didn't want to mess anything up.

 

No need to worry about the crossover for a daily driver. The factory "W" aluminum intakes even had the crossover. I have used 26 gauge sheet metal ducting and copper RTV silicone to plug the hole with no problem. Never had it apart to see if it burned through. It was just cold-blooded for a few miles until the engine fully warmed up.