I have an opportunity to buy a 1970 455 out of 88 for $450. I was wondering if this is a good price? What possible problems should I look for? It's complete except for the carb. Thanks

 

If it's a rebuildable core or a known running good engine with solid oil pressure and no overheating issues, it's not a bad price. I'd offer less if it's not running.

 

Sounds like it's not in a car right now.
That means there's no way to really see how it runs (hard to hear knocks or other noises with an engine with no exhaust system running on a stand).

A non-running engine not in a car should be assumed to have at least one major problem and to need a complete rebuild unless you KNOW its exact provenance.

That being said, it sounds like you're looking at an engine being sold as a core.
Prices vary by region, but I have in recent years paid $50 for a 350 (turned over, not represented as running, but would have run if given spark) and $225 for a 425 (ran, smoked), both complete pan to air cleaner.

The common wisdom (I think) is that $200 is a good core price for something that's not trashed, and $300 is an acceptable price.

I wouldn't pay $450 for a core, but that may be the going price in your area, and shipping's a bear.

- Eric

 

I would see if it turns over freely and maybe pull a valve cover .
That is a fair asking price
The 70 is before the dished the pistons for emissions and witch lowered compression

But to be honest with out hearing it run I would plan a rebuild on it
Just my opinion

 

He said it ran a year and half ago and it didn't smoke knock or use oil. That is If he's telling the truth

 

I bought two 455 in the last 6 mo
One for 650 with th400 to go with it and the sec I paid 200 with a th400 still attached just to give a idea

Now if you are able to talk him down some with cash I would I would still pull oil pan valve cover just to see any major stuff sticking out

If you are able to install your self you could always take the chance but if you plan on paying a shop to install I would rebuild just to be on the safe side so you don't wast time

It's always a gamble on how honest or dishonest people are


Edit also I would check the vin stamp on the left side of block powere steering pump will need to be pulled to see if it's in fact a 70 if so I would think its more desirable because if the higher compression

 

Has he said what might have been done do it in the past? Why is it not in use now? Assume the worst and hope for the best.

 

For $450.00,I would have bought it already.I've paid $650.00 for a 70 455 before,carb to pan. I don't care what pistons are in them.It is a 43yr-old engine.Running or not,it is a core to me.I would put better stuff in it anyway.

 

Unfortunately, good, rebuildable 455 Olds cores are not a dime a dozen in everyone's neck of the woods.
If the engine being considered is in good condition for a rebuild (ya, ya, ya, if it's out of the car and not running, how do you tell), then $450 doesn't seem out of line. I just did a (second) total rebuild of the 455 in my 76 Cutlass S (originally built it in 87). When I tore it down, we discovered both heads had cracks. I couldn't quickly locate a pair of good heads, so I jumped out there and bought Edelbrock alum heads. I bought a set of ceramic coated Hooker headers, and after 3 attempts to get BOTH the engine and headers installed, I went with new repo W30 exhaust manifolds and a FULL 2 1/2in ex system. Should have done that to begin with.

For those not familiar with the 455 Olds engines, there are two things to be aware of up front if a manual tranny is to be used. SOME cranks have no hole in the rear for a pilot bushing/bearing, so your machine shop will need to machine a hole. I personally prefer to use a Chevy style bushing or bearing.
Second, SOME blocks DO NOT have a boss for the ball stud for the Z-bar. If you want to use a manual tranny, check for the boss (if the block has a boss, it will probably already be drilled/tapped). If there is no boss for the ball stud, there is not enough metal in the correct area to drill/tap for the stud.

This is my recently built 455 (now 468) rebuild (before I ditched the headers and went with iron manifolds) and Richmond 5sp (I ordered the car new with a factory 5sp).
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100_1023.jpg


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Should be $455 for that 455

Drain the oil if it's still in it, see if it's clean or not. See if it turns freely. I checked that before buying my 330.

 

If it is a '70 should have "E" heads.
Also if the oil filler tube is original it should have a "0" as the first number.

Gene