Daniel Marsh

Hello All,
Can anyone tell me what problems I will run into when using a '67 Delta 425 in place of the 425 in my '67 Toronado that has a knock thanks to the oil pump screen getting plugged by a disintegrated nylon timing gear. I know I must change the oil pan and also the intake, but what else will get in my way? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Oldsmaniac

It is a direct swap otherwise. You will need the oil filter mount from the Toro as well. The 425 Toro had larger lifters and a different cam in 67 and larger intake valves in the heads. The external block and heads are identical as far as mounting any brackets.

Octania

In any condition, the Toro motor is a keeper. That is arguably the best of the best.

intake
oil pan
oil filter mount

Distributor should probably stay with the engine it was born with unless you have changed the entire thing out anyway.

Put a new timing set in while it's handy?
:-)

Daniel Marsh

You guys wouldn't believe it, this car is original down to the coil. Nothing has been apart and it has almost no rot. It is a real solid original car for $1400......

Daniel Marsh

I also agree it is the Toro motor which is the best, and all of its original components will be properly stored with it along with the rest of the Olds family.....

Oldsmaniac

If this is the car that has the good 425 maybe you should leave it alone, unless its a 4dr that someone else is gonna buy just for the engine. Still its an old untouched engine that is likely going to have problems develop when used regularly.

Daniel Marsh

O.K. so I have decided as I should to repair the 425 and return it to its home. My question is, where the hell are the actual engine mounts? I have everything off and am ready to pull her out, but where do I separate the engine from the transmission? I would assume that there are two mounts one on each side with the standard long bolts that need to be removed but then what? There is a mount of sorts in the front of the engine that I assume gets left on the engine after removing the nuts that secure it to the cross member. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I also posted this in the Toronado section as well.

joe_padavano

Help? Yeah.

STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR - at least until you get your hands on and read a Chassis Service Manual.

The Toro can't use traditional engine mounts on the sides of the block. The drive axles and transmission tend to be in the way. The drivetrain is supported with the single mount under the front of the motor and a mount on either side of the drive chain cover.

Again, I'm not sure how you plan to pull the motor and rebuild it without a CSM.

Don R.

Do not go any farther until you get a factory service manual. It will answer most if not all of your questions.

Daniel Marsh

I mean seriously, "Step away from the tools"? Wow, clearly didn't read what I asked. I have read the procedure, and was asking for additional tips aside from that. How else would I know about the front mount, the through bolts above driver's axle, the inspection cover in the rear, etc? Would it help somehow to list cars I have, as apparently that is how my knowledge is determined...
Sorry to have bothered you guys...lol forums

joe_padavano

Clearly this is my week to offend everybody...

I did read what you wrote, specifically this:

and this:

Sorry, but for someone who's read the Chassis Service Manual, that's spelled out pretty clearly there. A Toro doesn't use "two mounts one on each side with the standard long bolts that need to be removed", but since you already knew that, you must have been just fooling with us.

2blu442

I pulled the engine/transmission out of a 1967 Toro this spring. Sorry I didn't get pictures directly related to where the mounts were, but here's some pictures of the assembly out of the car. You already know about the front mount. Then there's a mount that attaches the drivers side of the engine to the pumpkin where the ring and pinion is. You'll see the normal location of engine to transmission fasteners. What is the biggest pain is the flexplate shield. From what I remember it has bolts that take a 3/8" socket and a couple are hard to get to. For one you have to use long extensions and go between the drivers side of the engine and the transmission. That has to be removed before you can separate the engine and transmission. It may have come across harsh but having a Chassis Service Manual with the diagrams will help locate these points. If you get stuck on something let me know and I'll see if I can remember what I did to get past that problem.
John


P1020127.jpg

P1020126.jpg

P1020135-1.jpg

Look at the last picture. The very top front of the pumpkin has a raised rib. That's acutally where a bolt goes through from side to side, and attaches to the piece that bolts to the drivers side of the engine. You can see that piece between the cardboard and transmission on the right upper side of the picture.

Daniel Marsh

I didn't mean to yell at anybody, but it gets old when you ask for help and are told the only things that you already know over and over again. What I was wanting were tricks for when the manual is wrong or things don't come apart as they should. These things never go as the manual states simply due to the fact that 40-50 years causes things to be "stuck" and so forth. That being said, if I had known the engine was going to seize the last time we got it to run then these pictures would have come to be much sooner.....