425 cui overheating
#1
425 cui overheating
Hello,
Please advice, I have a Dynamic 88 1966 425cui V8 originally 2bll carburetor, new Edelbrock aluminum intake + 4bll Edelbrock carburetor.It overheated the engine driving everything is ok, but when I stand a long time on the ground in a column illuminates my lamp HOT. The water in the radiator ok, a new water pump, water does not flow from the radiator overflow, the upper hose hot, original cooler.
Car does not have air conditioning, engine cooling fan has 4 blades, he is possible that it can not do when stopping the car?
I am sorry my english is not perfect, I am from Czech Repoblic. thanks
Please advice, I have a Dynamic 88 1966 425cui V8 originally 2bll carburetor, new Edelbrock aluminum intake + 4bll Edelbrock carburetor.It overheated the engine driving everything is ok, but when I stand a long time on the ground in a column illuminates my lamp HOT. The water in the radiator ok, a new water pump, water does not flow from the radiator overflow, the upper hose hot, original cooler.
Car does not have air conditioning, engine cooling fan has 4 blades, he is possible that it can not do when stopping the car?
I am sorry my english is not perfect, I am from Czech Repoblic. thanks
#2
Many things come to mind. Is there a shroud missing? It would be around the fan and it confines the air so it is forced through the radiator, if not that could be the problem. How old is the radiator, has it been flushed (cleaned) recenty? And do you know for a fact that the engine is truly over heating or is the gauge over sensitive and giving you a faults reading...... Tedd
#3
Hello,
Please advice, I have a Dynamic 88 1966 425cui V8 originally 2bll carburetor, new Edelbrock aluminum intake + 4bll Edelbrock carburetor.It overheated the engine driving everything is ok, but when I stand a long time on the ground in a column illuminates my lamp HOT. The water in the radiator ok, a new water pump, water does not flow from the radiator overflow, the upper hose hot, original cooler.
Car does not have air conditioning, engine cooling fan has 4 blades, he is possible that it can not do when stopping the car?
I am sorry my english is not perfect, I am from Czech Repoblic. thanks
Please advice, I have a Dynamic 88 1966 425cui V8 originally 2bll carburetor, new Edelbrock aluminum intake + 4bll Edelbrock carburetor.It overheated the engine driving everything is ok, but when I stand a long time on the ground in a column illuminates my lamp HOT. The water in the radiator ok, a new water pump, water does not flow from the radiator overflow, the upper hose hot, original cooler.
Car does not have air conditioning, engine cooling fan has 4 blades, he is possible that it can not do when stopping the car?
I am sorry my english is not perfect, I am from Czech Repoblic. thanks
#4
You didn't say if the problem started after the manifold change. If the work was done correctly it should not cause the problem. It sounds like a low speed condition. Check the air flow through the radiator. Check the radiator for any blockage, internally and externally. You can use an infrared temperature gauge to find hot or cooler places on the core. Check that the drive belt is tensioned properly. Check the thermostat in a pot on your stove with an accurate thermometer. Be sure it opens completely at the correct temperature. Be sure it is installed in the manifold correctly. Many details must be checked when trying to solve this sort of problem. Check more and report back. You can also read more discussion on the forum about overheating. It is a popular topic.
The problem was higher loads and longer engine stall even before installing Edelbrock intake.
Guard around the propeller is not there, the production car will not supply as standard.
question cooler, if not settled within the sludge, but the touch is hot and in all places.
#5
Many things come to mind. Is there a shroud missing? It would be around the fan and it confines the air so it is forced through the radiator, if not that could be the problem. How old is the radiator, has it been flushed (cleaned) recenty? And do you know for a fact that the engine is truly over heating or is the gauge over sensitive and giving you a faults reading...... Tedd
I did not measure the exact temperature, a HOT indicator light on the dashboard.
How to accurately measure the temperature of the water?
#6
The 65 98 425 non-ac did not have a full shroud, only a fan guard, don't know about a 66.
What thermo temp is in engine?
I also would want to know actual engine temp. Indicator lamps are a pain and don't tell you what is happening, only a hot/cold condition.
What thermo temp is in engine?
I also would want to know actual engine temp. Indicator lamps are a pain and don't tell you what is happening, only a hot/cold condition.
#7
Full cover is not, only a partial cap on top of the fan
#8
This makes me think that the other members' advice to check the actual temperature with a known accurate thermometer is a good one. After 49 years, it's possible that the sender may be in error. Also be sure that the coolant level in the radiator is correct.
#9
I do not know about three solutions:
1) try to get or make the guard around the fan ?
2) try to involve the exact water temperature alarm, which connect?
3) The new cooler - old is probably clogged and is active in the whole area?
#10
If the factory did not think a full fan shroud was needed it should not need one if all other parts function ok.
What temp thermostat is installed? Easy to try another lower temp one and see the results. I like 180 degrees myself.
The radiator could be clogged,but with coolant drained you should be able to see its' condition looking down into it.
What temp thermostat is installed? Easy to try another lower temp one and see the results. I like 180 degrees myself.
The radiator could be clogged,but with coolant drained you should be able to see its' condition looking down into it.
#11
Something still does not make sense. If you start with the radiator full of coolant when it is not hot and then the engine overheats, surely something will come out of the radiator's overflow. But you are saying that "water does not flow from the radiator overflow". This makes me think that something is not working correctly with the "HOT" warning light. You should still verify the actual temperature of the engine with a known good device to measure the temperature. It is possible that even the new (warning light) sensor can be defective. While new parts usually are "good", it is not always true. Performance of the part should be verified.
#12
Question-when was the 4bl manifold and carb installed? The reason being is most likely the distributor was removed making it much easier for the manifold swap. That said, did you check the timing? If the engine is not timed correctly they will get hot. Just a thought.
#14
I try to engage directly thermometer water, but do not know yet how and where :-)
HOT indicator light illuminates only after a long drive when the car stop and let the engine run.
thank you
#15
Your description sounds typical. When the vehicle slows after a drive, both the coolant flow in the system and the air flow through the radiator slows down which causes a temperature rise as the engine's heat has not yet been dissipated.
#16
The engine coolant gets the hottest in the front of the engine just before it passes the thermostat on its way to the radiator. To measure the temperature you should try to check it in this area. One of the ports on the front of the intake manifold would work. Or you can use a thermostat housing with a port. Or at the latest part of the flow you can add a port in the upper radiator hose. Having the sensor directly in the flowing coolant is best. You could try an infrared thermometer on the bare metal in this area, but it may not be accurate. An added remote gauge in the passenger compartment would be good if it is known to be accurate. Then it could be monitored while you drive.
Your description sounds typical. When the vehicle slows after a drive, both the coolant flow in the system and the air flow through the radiator slows down which causes a temperature rise as the engine's heat has not yet been dissipated.
Your description sounds typical. When the vehicle slows after a drive, both the coolant flow in the system and the air flow through the radiator slows down which causes a temperature rise as the engine's heat has not yet been dissipated.
thanks
I try to measure the exact temperature values, I do not know how it is set up when the indicator light to illuminate HOT eg. when the temperature rises above 203 F?
the car is stationary = water pump runs at idle speed motor and water has a low flow temperature rises =
Also try to get the guard around the propeller which should more blow to the cooler
#17
It sounds like the car is running a little hot but not overheating. I would get a set of gauges on the car and forget the idiot lights. They are called that for some reason> running at 205 now and then is really not out of the norm. So, I suggest prior to anything else you do get gauges on it.
I did that once for the same reason and realized I had very low oil pressure so I pulled the engine to inspect and found bad main bearings. Caught them in time to save the crank. Gauges are very important!!
Hope this helps
Larry
I did that once for the same reason and realized I had very low oil pressure so I pulled the engine to inspect and found bad main bearings. Caught them in time to save the crank. Gauges are very important!!
Hope this helps
Larry
#18
It sounds like the car is running a little hot but not overheating. I would get a set of gauges on the car and forget the idiot lights. They are called that for some reason> running at 205 now and then is really not out of the norm. So, I suggest prior to anything else you do get gauges on it.
I did that once for the same reason and realized I had very low oil pressure so I pulled the engine to inspect and found bad main bearings. Caught them in time to save the crank. Gauges are very important!!
Hope this helps
Larry
I did that once for the same reason and realized I had very low oil pressure so I pulled the engine to inspect and found bad main bearings. Caught them in time to save the crank. Gauges are very important!!
Hope this helps
Larry
how to connect a simple thermometer to 425 cid?
#19
You can buy a cap for the time being with temp gauge, That may be a little easier than installing a proper gauge in the meantime. When you look into the rad do you see alot of white hard water build up around the tubes? Is the rad a 2 row or 3-4? You could pull it out and do a flow test yourself. Stand the rad upright keep your hand over the connection while filling the rad. A good 2 row rad will flow out within 3 sec.
Hope this helps
Eric
Hope this helps
Eric
#20
Well a temp gauge hooks up to the same hole as the light sensor. That is between the thermostat housing and the head. I will post a couple of pictures to show you.
First one is with a light. Second is with a gauge.
Hope this helps
Larry
First one is with a light. Second is with a gauge.
Hope this helps
Larry
#21
#22
I agree with adding a permanent temperature gauge. If you do not want to modify the inside of the car, put them in the glove box or somewhere else inconspicuous. Oil pressure and water temperature gauges will tell you exactly what is happening in your engine and will warn you of problems. Here in the USA, a nice set can cost less than $50, you should be able to get them there as well. This will tell you if the car is really overheating, or your light is wrong. It will also tell you how much you are overheating.
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