400 Bronze block color
400 Bronze block color
I have a 67 cutlass I'm turning into a 442 clone. I'm using a 455 / th400 but wanted the power plant to look at home in this engine bay. I've read some post about matching the factory color of 1967 400 blocks with the proper bronze color. It seems that Fusick is about the only one to have something close. Well I wanted to get this thing painted and could wait so I went to the hardware store and found some I thought would work. Since I don't have a factory 400 I don't have any reference to the color but let me know what you experienced Olds guys think.


I painted my wife's engine with '77 Porche bronze...took her oil fill pipe with original paint on it to a body shop with a paint chip catalogue and went through the whole book till I found a match...went to Canadian Tire and bought a spray can and voila...400 bronze...that was about 25 years ago, needs to be freshened up now of course...
I didn't realize there were pics coming at me...the colour looks to be pretty close, when the hood is closed you can't tell anyway...;-)
I didn't realize there were pics coming at me...the colour looks to be pretty close, when the hood is closed you can't tell anyway...;-)
Last edited by Yellowstatue; Jun 3, 2009 at 02:44 AM.
The paint is a RustOleum product called Aged Copper and is part of their High Heat Ultra paint. The Lowes down the street sells it for $4.49. Sure beats $16.50 plus shipping.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
The paint is a RustOleum product called Aged Copper and is part of their High Heat Ultra paint. The Lowes down the street sells it for $4.49. Sure beats $16.50 plus shipping.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
Yes the frontend is a problem
I have only set the engine and trans in for mock fiting of the headers and brake lines etc. It will come back out again. As you can see the firewall and frontend need complete rework. Now the question is do i spend countless hours with a wire brush, or just pull the body off and bla$$t it.
I have only set the engine and trans in for mock fiting of the headers and brake lines etc. It will come back out again. As you can see the firewall and frontend need complete rework. Now the question is do i spend countless hours with a wire brush, or just pull the body off and bla$$t it.
Here's my engine with the Fusick paint. (note: the valve covers have been properly reinstalled since the pic. for some reason, the engine builder didn't know which way to put 'em)
IMG_0118.jpg
IMG_0118.jpg
The paint is a RustOleum product called Aged Copper and is part of their High Heat Ultra paint. The Lowes down the street sells it for $4.49. Sure beats $16.50 plus shipping.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
The engnine color looks good to go from where I sit.
I don't know what we're in agreement about here, as there are a couple shown.
As Joe said, pics/monitors can make an appreciable difference. I've heard that the paint Fusicks has is very close. But what I see on 68Tom's pic is too bright and too orange. The RustOleum looks very good. A little bit light, but a good shade and closer than the vast majority I've seen. And I do have examples of the original to compare. I'm also certain that there is *some* variation to the original colors.
That's my take, but i can't stress enough the difference that pics and montors can make!
As Joe said, pics/monitors can make an appreciable difference. I've heard that the paint Fusicks has is very close. But what I see on 68Tom's pic is too bright and too orange. The RustOleum looks very good. A little bit light, but a good shade and closer than the vast majority I've seen. And I do have examples of the original to compare. I'm also certain that there is *some* variation to the original colors.
That's my take, but i can't stress enough the difference that pics and montors can make!
Well, mine is definitely from Fusick's, and from what I've seen with my bare eye, it seems a bit too orange. But, it's painted, and in the car, so it is what it is. I'm a little perplexed by people supplying these paint. If you're going to charge $18 a can, it kind of seems like you should maybe test it until you get the proper hue. It's not THAT difficult to do. I just don't get it. It's different than some of the crappy repro parts. Getting the correct color is simply mixing the paint properly. No more ,no less. Jeez.
Well, mine is definitely from Fusick's, and from what I've seen with my bare eye, it seems a bit too orange. But, it's painted, and in the car, so it is what it is. I'm a little perplexed by people supplying these paint. If you're going to charge $18 a can, it kind of seems like you should maybe test it until you get the proper hue. It's not THAT difficult to do. I just don't get it. It's different than some of the crappy repro parts. Getting the correct color is simply mixing the paint properly. No more ,no less. Jeez.
1. Hard to get an accurate original. Original variations and various aging qualities of the paint makes it a bit of a moving target. Add to that someone who *thinks* they know the right color influencing paint decisions.
2. The metallic nature of the color makes it more difficult.
They've been at it for over 20 years now, it would be nice to get a standard.
This guy seems to understand the concept.
Norm
I liked this one:
Some folks think using the 'correct' fasteners is good enough. Ha! I made sure to cross-thread the left rear upper transmission crossmember bolt, just as the (sometimes inebriated) factory worker was known to.
Last edited by wmachine; Jun 4, 2009 at 05:55 PM.
I know there are plenty of guys that are bored to tears with the quest to for factory original. To each their own. But there are huge numbers of us that not only find this interesting, but have enough interest to have quite a financial impact. Car values and the reproduction parts business make this quite clear.
The paint is a RustOleum product called Aged Copper and is part of their High Heat Ultra paint. The Lowes down the street sells it for $4.49. Sure beats $16.50 plus shipping.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108
I have a set of 1966 400 valves covers with most of the original paint on them and the closest match I've found was from Supercars Unlimited. The broze paint I am currently using is from Parts Place and is also a little to orange in my opinion.
DSCF4880.jpg
DSCF4880.jpg
VHT has a new "metallic" engine paint line, and they have a copper color that i am considering trying out as well since i have an oreillys gift card and they stock it- might have to grab a can of that Rustoleum paint too and see what it looks like in reallife.
Last edited by RAMBOW; Jan 31, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
The first two were very close; Robz is too red/orange. Nilsson's/Hirsch is a bit too gold. I have an original water neck and Liquid Glaze paint (comapny was in Lansing; almost certain to be the original vendor). For us restorers, it is critical and difficult to mix the paint well. The pigments and metallics are hard to mix correctly, and how wet or dry the paint goes on also has an effect.
I looked at Fusick's at the OCA Nationals a couple years ago, and it looked good, even though the example above does look a trifle too orange.
I looked at Fusick's at the OCA Nationals a couple years ago, and it looked good, even though the example above does look a trifle too orange.
Last edited by Run to Rund; Feb 1, 2011 at 09:06 AM.
I got both the VHT and Rustoleum and Rustoleum looked closer.
I've got an original 68 G block that's darker than all the Pics above. Like has been said already, there really isn't one "correct" color. My motor is painted with tamraz's bronze which, in my opinion, is the worst of all. Its way too light.
Last edited by allyolds68; Feb 1, 2011 at 05:02 PM.
i picked up a can of the rustoleum... I'm not super impressed.
Ordered a can of fusick's for my buddies tricarb intake (which appears to still have the factory bronze paint on it) I'll do a side by side comparison of them vs the original when the fusick stuff arrives. I'll post some pics.
Ordered a can of fusick's for my buddies tricarb intake (which appears to still have the factory bronze paint on it) I'll do a side by side comparison of them vs the original when the fusick stuff arrives. I'll post some pics.
Last edited by RAMBOW; Feb 8, 2011 at 10:33 AM.
Look to the original cars, unrestored cars/engines for the correct color/s - they are out there, you will be amazed by what the colors really should look like that and bracket colors etc…Most underhood areas are over restored, color and brackets are the wronge black etc....good luck finding someone who makes the correct shade..
Fuicks's Bronze showed up yesterday... Last week i did a little test spray with the Rustoleum... Today i hit the same peice with Fusicks on the Right hand size.
Amazing how similar the colors are.
1171194077_photobucket_35803_.jpg
1171194077_photobucket_35802_.jpg
You have to look really close to see the fusicks on the right is a little more red in it, the Rustoleum on the left is a little more tan/brown.
anyway, just wanted to post for folks to see.
This is about 2 decent coats of each color (althought the fusicks is painted OVER the 2 coats of the VHT, for whatever thats worth...)
Amazing how similar the colors are.
1171194077_photobucket_35803_.jpg
1171194077_photobucket_35802_.jpg
You have to look really close to see the fusicks on the right is a little more red in it, the Rustoleum on the left is a little more tan/brown.
anyway, just wanted to post for folks to see.
This is about 2 decent coats of each color (althought the fusicks is painted OVER the 2 coats of the VHT, for whatever thats worth...)
Last edited by RAMBOW; Feb 16, 2011 at 04:09 PM.


