1962 Dynamic 88 convertible. Has some drips, including the oil pan from crossing the railroad where a crossing doesn't exist. But we're talking about some minimal stuff.

Oil was very low (about 2 quarts drained out) when I changed it about 1 month (200 miles) ago. I put in the high zinc racing oil figuring maybe that would help my situation. The previous oil change was only about 500-1000 miles ago, but that was 18 months. Now month later and 200 miles I'm down 1.5 quarts already.

The car runs like a dream with the new oil, but it's become a bear to start. Cranks for a solid minute, then dies once or twice before it gets going smoothly. Then the first stop sign of every drive is a smoke show on acceleration. After that, smooth as butter. When I park it, even after a 10 mile drive, the engine is hot. Smoke filtering out of the oil fill cap. Thermometer runs between 170-4250 depending on where I test, and I don't know where I'm supposed to test. Pics attached.

Radiator is full, fluid looks good, but I haven't had that serviced in quite awhile.

Normal operating for an almost 60 year old engine, drive it for the rest of the summer and get it in for a tune in the fall, or am I doing irreparable damage and need to get it to the shop right away? I'm decent with the electronics, and can turn a wrench, but engines are obviously not my thing.

 

94 views, no replies. Am I asking in the wrong subforum, or is this just the kind of issue that needs to be addressed in person? Even if the advice is "your question is too dumb for a DIY, you really need to find a good engine guy" I'd appreciate the feedback. I've been struggling with this issue for a couple of years and don't want to blow the engine from my ignorance.

 

You failed to mention if this engine had been rebuilt or what maintenance had been performed previously on it. Oil type is not going to change your oil burning issue. Small leaks compounded by multiple locations will cause your oil level to drop. In addition the smoking issue sounds like either rings and/or valve guide seals and will also bring your level down. You can do one of 2 things, find the cause of your oil consumption/smoking issue and repair/rebuild as required or check your oil more frequently and refill when necessary.

 

I don't think that level of oil consumption is horrible. Instead of using high dollar racing oil though I would use the cheapest oil I could find (either Wal Mart or Sam's Club).

You should go ahead and do a compression test to see how healthy your engine is. Chances are your loosing most of the oil through the rings like Eric mentioned.

 

Ski flyer, I had a friend who posted once about a question he had with his Olds and was sort of ticked off because there were so many views and no responses. I, (and I'm sure many others), look at CO almost every morning and I look at most new threads to gather info or just for something to read. If I have a comment or can help the poster with a suggestion, I will. But usually I just read it- so I am just a viewer usually. So don't be frustrated if you don't get a magic long distance answer to your question about engine wear. I do wish you good luck with a solution to your oil useage. My opinion? My guess is it needs a rebuild. Unfortunately those 394's aren't cheap to rebuild either. Let us know how you come out! (I'll be reading, I'm sure.....)

 

I'm with the you probably need a rebuild group. I think your engine is the lower compression engine (by the color of the valve covers) and they weren't as bad as the higher compression for blow by as they aged but if original and not rebuilt valve guides and seals have to be about used up.

Running a engine that you want to save past it's useful life will wear parts that you may have to machine later that could be saved if repaired/rebuilt now and save some money I'm thinking mostly of crank and a rebore of the cylinders but if you are using a quart every 200 miles the cylinders are probably jugged now beyond specks .

Your hard starts could be a lot of things, maybe low compression or carb or fuel pump issues timing or bad point setting. You will need to do a little diagnoses to narrow down what the main issue is. If mine I would try filling the carb bowl with gas and see if it starts right up. It's easy, quick and cheap and will let you know which direction you need to consternate on. wither it's a fuel issue, electric or compression or at least eliminate part of the puzzle.... Keep us posted....Tedd

 

I would start with a compression test, then add a squirt of oil to each cylinder, and retest one at a time. If the compression jumps up, it is rings. Usually with rings it would smoke a bit all the time. The other test for valve wear is, I was told, go down a hill with your foot off the gas and if it smokes its the guides. Any leaks should be repaired, I've eaten up bearings with slow leaks I didn't stay on top of. It sounds like a lot of oil to me. I'm sure others can fill in details on my response.

Steve