My 1969 Hurst came with a carb from a 1969 Toronado (7029252). I recently obtained a number correct carb (7029251) for the Hurst from the previous owner, which has been rebuilt. Note that this carb is not the original carb for the car. I have noticed that the Toronado carb has the triangular shaped choke lever shown in the bubble in the attached picture. That lever is for "All except Toronado." The correct Hurst carb has the straight lever as shown in the picture marked "Toronado Lever". I can imagine that in the past when the carbs were changed, and the Hurst carb was replaced by the Toronado Carb, that a number of levers and linkages had to be swapped to make the Toronado work. Maybe the choke lever was swapped between the two carbs.

I noticed the difference in choke levers after I had the Hurst carb rebuilt and mounted on the engine. When I was looking at the chassis manual to determine which hole to use for the choke rod, it became apparent that my new rebuilt Hurst carb had the wrong choke lever. I don’t want to change the choke lever unless I really have to. So, to my questions.

Why did the Hurst and Toronado have different choke levers when they had essentially the same carb and engine? I understand that the Toronado manifold was a bit flatter, but that should not change the relationship between the divorced choke and the carb.

Does it matter to my set up or should I just adjust the choke rod to make the choke work as required for the Hurst.




Thank You,

Jay Morris

 

I believe the Hurst and Toro probably had different camshafts which would lead to different start up and choke characteristics. An inexpensive way to have both cars work correctly on startup is to simply change the choke lever shape so each one would start well cold. Simple, practical, inexpensive.

It sounds like you’re going for correctness. That’s cool especially with a Hurst. But if you can’t find the 1-of-300 ever made part, there’s an alternative.

Usually these mechanical systems relied on rods of varying length to work. If yours doesn’t work right at start up (i.e. rev to 1200 on startup, then back off when you blip the throttle), you can get a longer rod with your existing choke lever and see if that helps things. If the longer makes things worse, you can bend the rod to take some of the length out of it until you get to where you want to be.

Wishing you good luck on finding the right lever, but perhaps this fallback will help
Chris