Tail pipes
^^^^Exactly^^^^
When I purchased my car it came with a Gardner system, a piece needed to be replaced. Eric asked for a picture of the pipes coming off of the exhast manifolds as there is a special kink or bend they put in their pipes that ID their system. I passed that part of the test, next, he wanted to see a receipt, which I didn't have....no va, said I had to purchase a complete system since I was not the original purchaser.
When I purchased my car it came with a Gardner system, a piece needed to be replaced. Eric asked for a picture of the pipes coming off of the exhast manifolds as there is a special kink or bend they put in their pipes that ID their system. I passed that part of the test, next, he wanted to see a receipt, which I didn't have....no va, said I had to purchase a complete system since I was not the original purchaser.
Last edited by tnswt; Aug 13, 2022 at 12:33 PM.
Call John at Waldron Exhaust in Centreville, Michigan. 269-467-7185. He made me an all stainless exhaust for my 1967 442 that fit absolutely perfect. Great guy to do business with and considerably cheaper than Gardener. I have never done business with Gardener but I hear they make a fantastic system, however I can not say enough regarding John's willingness to work with the customer.
John,
Unless you are running 1000hp you don't need a 3" exhaust, way overkill. Could actually hinder performance
2.5 will be more than enough. Many places will sell pieces of the 2", 2 1/4", or 2 1/2" systems. Plus the trumpet tips look better (IMO) at 2 or 2.25"
2.5 and 3s just don't do it for the OEM look...for me.
Suggestions:
Make sure you tuck the tailpipes up in the trunk quarter drop-offs. We shouldn't see any of the system when viewed from the side of the car.
Make sure the tips exit the correct length through the bumper.
If it's not a 442 we shouldn't see the baloney cut, downturn tailpipes extend beyond the bumper.
Too many times a butchered exhaust is visually unpleasing and makes it look cobbled.
Unless you are running 1000hp you don't need a 3" exhaust, way overkill. Could actually hinder performance
2.5 will be more than enough. Many places will sell pieces of the 2", 2 1/4", or 2 1/2" systems. Plus the trumpet tips look better (IMO) at 2 or 2.25"
2.5 and 3s just don't do it for the OEM look...for me.
Suggestions:
Make sure you tuck the tailpipes up in the trunk quarter drop-offs. We shouldn't see any of the system when viewed from the side of the car.
Make sure the tips exit the correct length through the bumper.
If it's not a 442 we shouldn't see the baloney cut, downturn tailpipes extend beyond the bumper.
Too many times a butchered exhaust is visually unpleasing and makes it look cobbled.
Call John at Waldron Exhaust in Centreville, Michigan. 269-467-7185. He made me an all stainless exhaust for my 1967 442 that fit absolutely perfect. Great guy to do business with and considerably cheaper than Gardener. I have never done business with Gardener but I hear they make a fantastic system, however I can not say enough regarding John's willingness to work with the customer.
Will look into Waldron.
I'm leaning towards 3" due to the math that true 2.5 duals are in the 500 to 550Hp range. That is where I'm hoping to be. Maybe more maybe less. Usually 2.5" stuff is easy and plentiful, but 3 and up gets scares. WILL be 3" from headers, x pipe and in & out of muffler. So if I can't find 3" tail pipe, could always step down to 2 5.
Just research now for fall winter redo.
I'm leaning towards 3" due to the math that true 2.5 duals are in the 500 to 550Hp range. That is where I'm hoping to be. Maybe more maybe less. Usually 2.5" stuff is easy and plentiful, but 3 and up gets scares. WILL be 3" from headers, x pipe and in & out of muffler. So if I can't find 3" tail pipe, could always step down to 2 5.
Just research now for fall winter redo.
I have the Pypes 2.5" and i would give them 97% plus..need just a little massaging and critical your mufflers are at correct height or they will just clear the frame as they come back in inside the qtrs.
I know they offer 3" trumpets, now just finding the pipes that run up to them will be the issue.
The Parts Place Inc offers some low priced exhaust systems. I suspect these are made by a major supplier like Pypes and may be drop shipped direct to their customers. I have no information regarding quality, fit and the like.
Well update:
I can't seem to source a good direct fitting tail pipe for a 1970 W30 with tips? I'm sure there out there, I just can find them and still looking. Looks like I will be calling Waldron and discussing with them??? Also talking to locals about just bending some up????
Got the new headers in with 3" collector. So will be 3" with x-pipe and Turbo/Super Turbo muffler, probably 20 to 24" long case. Going to set-down to 2.5's tail pipe running to bumper.
I can't seem to source a good direct fitting tail pipe for a 1970 W30 with tips? I'm sure there out there, I just can find them and still looking. Looks like I will be calling Waldron and discussing with them??? Also talking to locals about just bending some up????
Got the new headers in with 3" collector. So will be 3" with x-pipe and Turbo/Super Turbo muffler, probably 20 to 24" long case. Going to set-down to 2.5's tail pipe running to bumper.
Assuming that 1) you can find a muffler shop that actually bends pipes anymore, and 2) you're OK with the non-mandrel bends you'll get. Frankly, buying existing A-body 2.5" mandrel bent pipes and making minor tweaks to them is likely a much less expensive and restrictive option.
You're also assuming the flow within the muffler and that it's a true 3" not stepped down to 2.5 internally. I doubt you'll notice much power difference with non-mandrel bends. Below is a good chart for estimating exhaust tubing size.
Ok back at it. Found these from Flowmaster 3" tail pipe kit 15818. Any ideas it's car building season and need some insight as I'm doing 3+ cars this winter......
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f.../442/year/1970
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f.../442/year/1970
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