Opportunity to get 1969 442 Convertible, What should I check for?

I was offered a 1969 442 Convertible.
We have verbally agreed on a possible price and are now coordinating an actual visit to see the car.
I will not see the car for about 3 weeks.
So far, I am the first in line.

The second owner passed away. He had the car for about 20 years.
The car had an extensive rebuild about 10 years ago (Paint, Transmission, Convertible top).
It was maintained for the next 5 years, brake lines, etc.
It has been sitting for the last 4 years.

I am not going to post any pictures at this time.
The pictures I have seen, vary in age from 1 to 10 years.
The most recent pictures show the following.
Rusty outside trunk lid and hood surface.
Bottom front fender rot.
Front bumper Rot-through.
Interior looks fair.
NO-AC car, No power windows.
Black vinyl with console. Automatic.
Engine is a blue 400, very rusty. Chrome valve covers, Chrome air breather. Power brakes
The Engine code sticker looks like QF. I do not have the VIN yet, or other documents.
In theory, the Engine Starts and the car drives.
Overall the car looks intact. Roof may need to be replaced.

 

I assume it will need the following:
Full Roof.
Carpet
Full Paint
Front fender Lowers.
Front Bumper
Lots and lots of luck.
Fluid Changes, Oil, trans, radiator, Rear axil.
Most hoses, Radiator, Brake, vacuum

Hope not:
4-Core Radiator, Heater core, Engine, rear quarters, etc.

Question:
What is a beat-up 69 442 convertible realistically worth?

 

Check the underside of the frame in front of the drivers rear tire, in the boxed section right before where the frame begins to curve up. Passenger sides rust there too but the driver's side is usually worse. The front frame mounts rust in the bottom but it's really hard to see without the tub off the frame. The inside lower edge of the rear trunk lids are really the problem areas. If the outside is rusted the inside will be too.

 

Sounds like a fair amount of rust, do a check on a hoist, rust is hard on convert's.

 

I am planing on performing a inspection as thorough as possible.
I will bring a floor Jack, etc.
Also, if time permits, an engine compression check.

I had a 1971 CS convertible from 83-93.
The car ran great. I was able to keep up with everything except the frame.
The frame turned to dust.
I sold it because there was just too many holes in the frame (and i had a new family too).

 

Makes it difficult to provide useful information...

Engine SHOULD be a BRONZE G-block 400. Verify casting numbers on the block and heads. Verify the VIN derivative stamp.

 

Seems you are familiar with frame rot, so be wary as said. For the front bumper to be rotted thru I would be on HIGH ALERT for frame rot.

 

Hi Joe, Thank you for the comments on the engine color.


That is a concerning observation of the engine color being wrong.
All of my 10 Cutlasses were years 1970 – 1972.
I never owned anything older than 1970.

Since I do not own the car yet, I am only releasing limited information at this time.
The car is located on the Third Rock from the Sun.

I now have two Cutlasses, 1970 and 1971.

I need to make room for another project.
I also have a wife, kids, dog and a guinea pig.


So, I made the decision to get rid of the guinea pig and the 1970 cutlass supreme.
Postings soon.
The Cutlass will be Free, sort of, It will be included with the cost of the guinea pig.

 

FWIW many 400's have been replaced with blue 455's

 

Dash VIN

I did some research.
The VIN is 442 convertible, the Body Tag is Cutlass V8 2dr convertible
The research says this is normal, for the VIN and Body tags to Not match.

 

Glade Green, Black interior, Gold top built in Lansing 2nd week on December

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ml#post1028074

I bought it.

Now I really need to sell my 1970 CS