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I’m sure this comes up a lot, but I’m looking for some pointers on what specifics I need to look for. I’ve been on the hunt for a 442 for sometime and found one that might be just right. It’s a 1968 coupe with vinyl top, automatic on the floor. I was told it had a frame off 15 years ago and it’s all numbers matching. I have found the posts on where to look for the numbers, so I feel comfortable with that. Any input would be great for this newbie. Hopefully everything looks legit and i join the club of owners. Thanks in advance for any input.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
1968 was the first year of the new body style, and also the first year that 442 became it's own model. If you already have the information about VIN, block and transmission - how about posting some pictures of the potential purchase?
People can tell you anything [sometimes out of ignorance still being wrong]
I cheek it out personally, and check for rust and/or Bondo [using a Fridge magnet], in the front and rear quarters. These cars had a habit of getting sideways until a pole/tree got in the way
We love to see pics
FYI check out the many threads about the 68 W-36 fender stripe. " If" it's not in the correct position, prepare yourself to catch some grief from one of our most learned mods [It's his pet peeve]
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by Jamesbo
FYI check out the many threads about the 68 W-36 fender stripe. " If" it's not in the correct position, prepare yourself to catch some grief from one of our most learned mods [It's his pet peeve]
Jim speaks the truth on this one. Joe P has a penchant for 'fake' W36 stripes. In 1968, a special option (W36) placed the 442 numerals slightly further back on each fender to allow the triple stripe to line up in the center of the lower fender. Here's the info from the 1968 SPECS booklet. They say a picture (or pictures) are worth a 1000 words. Enjoy!
And this is what a correct W36 stripe looks like. Note where the 442 emblems are in relation to the edge of fender on both pics. You'll see the difference right away.
And this is an incorrect one. Notice the location of where the stripe finishes on the lower fender
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by Jamesbo
Allan, I don't believe it's a "penchant"
My bad Jim, I shudda said "He hates incorrect W36 stripes with a 'passion'. Dat sound bedder?? If I kept the penchant thing, I would hafta reword to say his penchant is to beat on fake W36 stripes...
Underbody looks decent except for this obvious issue. Under the drivers side there is clearly fiberglass. This is from under the passenger side, no fiberglass
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
In general it's very well presented and the engine/trans are the ones it was born with according to the VIN and derivatives. I'd be leary about that fiberglass and would want to see the floor boards under the rug where the repair is. I'd bet you're going to find something ugly there. Lots of good things with the pictures showing mostly generally rust free car, or recent paint job. The engine needs the passenger side valve cover gasket replaced, and it's missing one of the VC bolts. Maybe it's just me, but the drivers side eyebrow looks wonky - too big a gap there for some reason. Oh, it IS a correct W36 car.
Asking 24k, there is wiggle room there. I told him I’d need to get it to a shop for a once over before I’d make an offer. He’s owned it since 1990 and supposedly is the 2nd owner. I certainly have concerns with the fiberglass area for sure.
It was repainted in 2005, at that time he supposedly had the frame dipped and e coated. I did a lot of feeling around and sticking my fingers in holes, the only goofy seeming item was the fiberglass.
Tapper, as mentioned, it's a true 4-4-2 and apparently numbers matching, with both the W36 stripe and the grill 4-4-2 emblem in the correct positions. Nice car, in consideration of the issues mentioned above. Does it have a "posi," (Olds called it Anti-Spin) rear end? Personally I think $24K is too high, but that is me. I might go as high as $18K, or maybe $20 on this one. I'm in Colorado, so my impression of pricing in NY (from the license plate) is probably off a bit.
I noticed in Allan's pics of the two versions of stripe, BOTH cars have the grill emblem too low
If not this one, I hope you get your own 4-4-2 soon!
Good Luck!
Ooh! Just noticed: Rally Pack senders on the engine; NICE!
Last edited by BackInTheGame; May 22nd, 2019 at 07:21 PM.
Reason: Update text
I thought the license plate was from Wisconsin.
I thought I saw a tag on one of the differential cover bolts which meant "Anti Spin".
The eyebrows have a large gap.
Exhaust pipes need to be tweaked upward.
The "fiberglass" looks to be on a floor support...that would concern me.
I think the car looks good. I won't guess on the price, others here are more knowledgeable. Good luck.
As noted, take a good look at the fiberglassed area. Absent a serious problem there, it looks like a good honest car, but not worth $24K. For that kind of money you can get one that's a lot closer to show-ready. Once you satisfy yourself that you want it. start the bidding around $16K and don't go over $19K (maybe $20K if you're in love). Be prepared to walk away. Chances are the seller will follow after you, especially if the car's been for sale for any length of time. There's not as much money chasing these cars as there was a few years ago.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Some more thoughts for you as you contemplate your potential purchase
After looking at the photos again, there's evidence of recent work.
new brake hoses
new shocks
likely new bushings as the bolt in the control arm also looks new.
exhaust looks recent
new(er) alternator
Other options noted:
P05 SSII wheels in correct argent color
D55 remote side mirror
W36 stripe
C08 vinyl top and drip edge moldings (included as part of package)
J50 (Power drum brakes - can't see evidence of rotors in those pics. If discs, then option JL2)
N40 Power steering
U75 Power antenna
U63 Radio - Pushbutton
The engine has the correct notched valve cover on the right side, but engine is painted the wrong color - it should be bronze instead of Olds gold.
The hood is out of alignment on the back (cowl) and right side. That's actually an easy fix. But the front, as noted by myself and others shows the eyebrows and hood don't line up properly. This is what it should be like
compare to what your picture shows: (I think the grill on the red car is not installed correctly as it slants downwards)
I do agree with the others that $24K might be a little steep on the ask for this car. I looked at OldsmobileCentral.com for comparisons and found the average listing for a 68 442 was 19,815. The one you're chasing is likely right around there based on other offerings.
Thank you all for the input. It’s really nice to get all your opinions, thanks to each of you for taking the time. I’m not sure how I want to proceed with this one. It has a lot of positives, but the potential pan issue creeps me out.
Last edited by Tapper442; May 23rd, 2019 at 06:51 PM.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by Tapper442
Thanks you all for the input. It’s really nice to get all your opinions, thanks to each of you for taking the time. I’m not sure how I want to proceed with this one. It has a lot of positives, but the potential pan issue creeps me out.
As you told the seller that you want to have a shop do a certification inspection. Tell him you want them to have a look under the fiberglass to see why it's there. If he balks at that, chances are he 's hiding something else. If he agrees to have the shop pull the fiberglass and document the underneath structure that may also be something that can be negotiated. The floor pans and supports are reproduced, but they would be expensive to install unless you do your own fabrication. The left floor pan is around $180 and brace around $150 BUT IF it needs a new floor pan and support, that would easily be up to $1500 hit in labor alone. Call it a $2000 repair and could be used as leverage on the sale. I appreciate all this is putting a lot of strain on your decision making, and I sincerely hope you find the answers you're looking for.
Just a question - Does it have to be a 68 442? There are nicer 69 442's for less money out there. The only real difference between 68/69 is the front clip, rear bumper/tail lights, no wing side door windows, and column mounted key lock/ignition. The rest of the body lines and interior are remarkably similar.
I’m not set on a 68, actually anything 68-72 is good by me. I like the idea of numbers matching, but at the same time I’d be ok without on the right car. I grew up around classic cars and have good memories with my father cruising around and hope to have the same with my children. The apple of his eye was always the 442. There haven’t been a lot of 442’s near Milwaukee for sale in the price range I’m looking for, this is really the first one to pop up. I’m not attached to it by any means, certainly willing to wait for the right one.
He did agree to let the resto shop look at it. I will see what he thinkis about the idea of pulling the fiberglass to see what it’s hiding. Based on our interactions I’d bet he would settle on 20-21k, which might just be too high.
Last edited by Tapper442; May 25th, 2019 at 08:34 PM.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by Tapper442
I will see what he thinkis about the idea of pulling the fiberglass to see what it’s hiding. Based on our interactions I’d bet he would settle on 20-21k, which might just be too high.
IF the resto shop gives you bad news on the floor pan, I'd either offer 17k or walk away. The cost to fix is pretty high - ask the resto shop what they'd charge to fix. I bet I'm light on my number. I'm staying glued to this thread as I'm really curious to hear back what is found on an inspection. When can it go in for the look see?
Well its sounds like hes not willing to remove the fiberglass to see what's under it. Stated the floor can easily be assessed from below, don't want to tear the car apart. I don't believe he will take less then 20k for it, so this is probably a pass for now.
The fiberglass is most likely covering a hole or rotted out section. Do the floorboards feel soft in any spots ? I wouldn't let someone take a car apart if I was selling it. I would also expect some answers. Take your time.
Well I didn’t pull the trigger on the 442. I’m still in the market and keeping a close eye on the forums and other classified. If you all see something let me know. Thanks for all your help and input, you guys rock.
May 21st, 2019, 06:18 PM
Nice car, in consideration of the issues mentioned above. Does it have a "posi," (Olds called it Anti-Spin) rear end? Personally I think $24K is too high, but that is me. I might go as high as $18K, or maybe $20 on this one. I'm in Colorado, so my impression of pricing in NY (from the license plate) is probably off a bit.
