I'm trying to get my '68 442 4-speed convertible running again, last ran in 1985, last tagged in 1983. Got everything done (shocks, brakes, hoses, belts, etc.), but want to change the 4-speed transmission oil/grease, and am unsure where the drain plug is. Also, had a helluva time getting the fill plug loose, had to buy an 8-point socket, but that did the trick. Any help would be appreciated. A photo would be great. Thanks, Mike.

 

I don't think there is a drain plug on a Muncie. If there was, it would be easy to spot. I changed my cast 'fill plug' with a brass hex head plug.

 

There's a boss in the bottom of the earlier Muncies that isn't tapped. I think 68 or 69 is the last years there wasn't a drain plug. I think in 70 they started putting the plug in. I tapped mine before I installed the trans when it was out of the car. Just be aware that if you do that you need to tap it with a tapered pipe thread, not a straight thread or it will be difficult to seal.

You also can get most of the fluid out by sticking a flexible tube in the fill hole and drawing it out with a vacuum type pump.

 

No plug on a 68 Muncie casing. You can pull your drive shaft, jack up the frontend and let it drain out of the back, put the drive shaft back in and refill.

Bill

 

Thanks for the replies. A couple of local mechanics here also told me I could pull a couple of lower bolts on the inspection cover on the driver's side of the transmission without removing the cover and the fluid will come out of the bolt holes. Another suggestion was to remove the bottom bolt where the tailshaft housing bolts to the transmission and and the fluid will dribble out there, just not very fast. The problem with that is that I don't think the bolt will come out all the way, because it will hit the crossmember. Third option is to try siphoning out the fluid with a suction device. I'll let everyone know what, if anything, works.

 

I think pulling the drive shaft is much easier and quicker (4 little bolts), I 'd worry about the seals for the tail shaft and inspection cover (leaking later if you don't get em back it just right) wherein the rear seal is ment to be moved in and out (slip yoke sliding back and forth constantly) I'm not a mechanic but this has worked for me.

Bill