As we've been slowly working on our W30, I've been wondering if there is general collection or list of modifications that can be made during the restoration process to keep it considered a restoration as opposed to crossing the line and turning it into a restomod. Are there modifications that are commonly acceptable?

Ultimately the goal is to restore it as close to off-the-lot condition as possible but if you don't make major changes that can't be undone - what's the harm/devalue there? If this is a widely varying opinion, what mods do you consider acceptable? Does this vary with muscle cars vs. other classics?

How do you determine if a car is worth being a purist about and going the straight restoration route? Is this all personal preference and use intent?

Sorry for all the questions - looking forward to your opinions though!

Thanks!

 

Thinking about your post there is something to consider, what are you going to do with the car? and why are you restoring it? ( End Game) is it for profit? or are you building the car to drive and enjoy?

Your car is not Just a Muscle Car it is a w-30 or so you believe? now is there documentation? evidence, etc etc proving it is a genuine W-30?

I know it seems a strange question, but it will qualify everyone's reply on what to do and how to do it? w-30's are the holy grail, and if your endgame is profit at the end of the tunnel then it is worth doing a nut and bolt as close to original as possible.

If it is for you to enjoy and at some point down the road you wish to sell it, then I personally would say build it the way you wish,

My advice here ( more of my opinion) is if you are going to drive it...
if you have an original engine and the room, I would consider getting a second correct or close to correct engine, and build it up to the level you wish, you can feel free to beat on it etc etc , same for the tranny, which is also not readily available for cheap.

I would not worry about suspension upgrades, but save all your old parts, if your changing control arms, upgrading brakes etc. so it is easily returned to stock when the time comes to sell.

I only have a Cutlass s, I have upgraded the motor to a 455, 4 wheel disc brakes, stainless lines etc I have the numbers matching engine, and all the spindles, drums etc just in case anyone wants to change it back down the road, but not sure it is worth it on my car yours however is a w-30, and all the value is in the engine/tranny numbrs matching and the documentATION. If your looking for maybe a few miles of very easy cruising, then you probably don't need an extra engine, but an overheat, a spun bearing, etc etc etc and the motor or tranny is gone well there is a big chunk of value... just my opinion.

also if your driving her, a new buyer might want to freshen everything anyway if they ar buying as an investment so it will be redone anyway....

 

Personally, Mine is documented - I have the body broadcast card, the original protect o plate and service records through the current mileage. It is the original motor and trans.

I do plan to drive and enjoy it, keep it as long as possible but also consider it an investment so ultimately I want to know what my options are or what I've done to it.

 

This is something you will have to decide for yourself but in my opinion, a documented numbers matching W-30 should be keped original. My W-30 is documented with all the original parts other than the engine block. When i restore it i am going to do some engine upgrades like a roller cam but for the most part it will also be kept as original as i can. I don't think things like a roller cam will bother most collectors but if they see headers it is a fast turn off. If it is not going to be a trailer queen you sure don't want to go to the point of finding NOS exhaust and wear items just to wear them out on the road. In most cases restoring a car is not a great investment. Not many get there investment back out of the car. Now if you want the car and take care of it and enjoy it, you will still get most of your money and have enjoyed it for however long you drive it. It is a MUCH better investment than a new car.

 

Let's be very clear. ANY deviation from stock is not "RESTORED". A "little" modification is like a little pregnant. Now, most folks are comfortable with reversible bolt-on mods (wheels and tires, intake, exhaust) but the reality is that anything that wasn't factory-installed (or a factory option) is not a restoration.

 

I did similar to you with my chevelle. It's an LS6 as the build sheet denoted, however I had another 454 specially built making around 600 horse now for fun. I also took the original 4 speed out and put in a richmond super T-10, this way you are not devaluing the orignal motor and transmission.

 

All good points.

Anything that can be unbolted is fair game for making your car "drive-able".

I always do the following:

1. Use fuel injection hose at all the junctions
2. Gas shocks
3. Radial tires
4. Points eliminator kit
5. Poly bushings on front sway bar/end links
6. Mandrel bent exhaust

That is, in my opinion, makes an older muscle car better.

Other good, but hidden improvements:

1. Balancing
2. Roller cam/rockers
3. Head porting
4. Port matching
5. Roller timing chain
6. Upgraded clutch

 

Two more points: how old are you, and do you plan to build the correct engine later--or might later never come? Have you looked at class rules vs. planned modifications in case you want to show it somewhere? Also realize that a pristine restoration will "age" and get less sharp with use. The more you use the car, inevitably the farther it gets from a perfect, correct condition. As others stated, what are your goals? The OCA has classes for correct stock, mildly modified (street stock, which I hope the judging committee will update because the current rules don't make as much sense to me as they did in the form the class took 30 years ago), heavily modified but in perfect show condition (modified) and race car (for cars that are actually used and raced).

 

So is it pretty common to pull the original motor and store it with cars with the proper credence? What are the biggest concerns for damage to the original? Seems like it could be restored in most situations (other than block damage) and in my case it's got 76k miles on it already. Are proper parts the issue for restoration there?

It sounds like the answer to one of my questions is that folks in general still want a muscle car restored like any other classic car. Or at least the are valued that way. I was curious if that would vary based on the type of car.

 

I think you answered exactly what I was fishing for, but wasn't certain the proper way to ask. Thanks!

 

I am 31 - I hope to keep and enjoy it as long as I can afford to, hahaha. It's a project I'm working on with my father who is the car savvy of the two of us. I very we'll may pass it on to kids one day (none yet!)

Like I said earlier, we do plan to drive and enjoy it, possible harder than just cruising around town but it will definitely be a garage car. I don't see us trailering it around for car shows, but we'll probably show it around town and I don't think we've got anything that serious around here so that's not a major concern. Sounds like there is a class for whatever we want to do with it though.

 

I don't know if it's common or not I just did it because it seemed smart to me. I have everything plastic wrapped sitting in the garage.

I figure, I have the car, I want to have fun. I'm only young once. What's the point of having a sweet muscle car if you just garage it and worry about value? Is value worth anything after you're gone? So build a secondary BBO even a stroker with big power for fun in the car.

Just remember, you only live once and life is short.

 

Eddie seemed to catch the major points for me.
All the choices discussed above cover my dilemma with a 1967 post 442. My path has been to keep it as is. It is original only once.
Note that I did have new upholstery made; the original covers were kept and not pulled apart for patterns.
Given a real W-30, I would continue the same path.

 

stressed1 is sure correct about that!

Just the other day I was an 18 year guy with a brand new '74 Gremlin X, ordered from my local dealership.
Now I'm a 57 year old dude with a wife, two kids, lots of bills and a '67 Delta 88.

WTF?