matchek

I have a 67 442 with a 425 engine. It was tuned up a couple of years ago and sat in the garage for that time due to Covid. I put 0 miles on it - I just started it once a month since then and let it run for 10-15 minutes since. I took it out for a ride and it was sluggish. Like when I hit the gas it seemed like it would hesitate some starting from a stop. It drives fine on the highway.

I did notice that it needed a gallon of antifreeze and added it. I had no leaks in the garage so it must have evaporated internally. So when I was starting it the last year, it was running with a 1 gallon of less coolant then full for some of the time. I have since filled it up with gas and stabilizer. The oil is from a 1.5 years ago.

Also the tachometer seems to act funny. Like it is sticking. sometimes. Sometime works fine sometime reads weird numbers - like not working or sticking at 1,000 RPM. When I hit the gas it is not smoothe. It seems like it like it trying to clear its throat - rough.

Any thoughts on how I can get a smoother acceleration?

66SportCoupe

What kind of gas was it it during the limited use? If it had any alcohol in it it could have gummed up the carb.

matchek

I always use ethanol free gas.

Vintage Chief

Carburetor accelerator pump (the walls and/or the pump itself [gaskets]) might be a tad dry after sitting that long. Drive it some more and give it a good workout - it should free/lube up on its own after some decent miles. They weren't designed to sit idle - just give it some miles and work it good.

matchek

Thank you I was thinking the same thing. What do y'll think of Sea Foam? I was thinking of putting of that in the tank and driving it more.

Vintage Chief

I don't believe SeaFoam is going to hurt anything - it might help. But, my first several inclinations are:
(1) Run/Drive it and take it to its paces for at least 50 miles or so - see if it opens up more;
(2) Replace the fuel filter with a fresh fuel filter (sediment will find it way into the lines/filter when sitting that long in a dry state);
(3) Might want to just run your A/F mixture screws in/out and re-establish highest vacuum possible;
(4) The plugs (and points) - e.g. anything with metal contacts will have some, if only minor, corrosion on them from sitting that long. It may take some time for the plug corrosive fouling to burn off. Give it some miles, heat it up and then re-evaluate, IMO. Might check the plugs after a good 50 mile run.

EDIT: One more. Don't be shy about liberally employing carburetor cleaner on the carburetor parts (e.g. a good soaking isn't going to hurt anything) including the throttle linkage.

matchek

Good advice. Will do. By the way, I checked the fuel filter - it looks like a gold thimble. Is there any difference between this kind versus the other kind that looks like a paper filter? I ordered new ones of both just in case.

Vintage Chief

I'm not certain which one was installed factory OEM. As long as you change the filter (either one) I believe you're trending in a positive direction.

BangScreech4-4-2

I'll say it again -- starting a car up and letting it idle during storage does more harm than good. Best to store it properly and leave it alone until you intend to drive it.

VC455

Good, rarely-seen and rarely-heeded advice.

I stored a 30,000 mile 1965 Corvette for 10 years in an unheated garage in a cold climate. The only prep was to put in synthetic oil and remove and cap the gas line at the injection unit. Later, when the engine was disassembled for an upgrade, there was no internal rust and no discernible cylinder wear. There was no additional rust in the exhaust system.

Vintage Chief

I'll bet the OP did not originally anticipate storing the car for this length of time; but, instead the car ended up sitting in the garage as the result of continued COVID-19 crisis. Agree, regarding starting up ANY engine allowing to it to idle for a short duration while in a state of storage.

Not completely certain how this conversation equates to the OP's original question. I believe he wants to work out the bugs is all.

BangScreech4-4-2

It doesn't, except to say that the practice might have something to do with the difficulty he's experiencing now. Probably not, though -- it's just something that sticks in my craw. I'll get down off my horse and be quiet now.

matchek

As an update, I added Sea Foam and changed the fuel filter from the gold metal thimble type, to the paper type and it runs great. [I also bought a new gold - thimble type too but thought I would try this one first]. No bogging down - nice a smooth start. Hit the peddle and no bog bog bog. I notice a big difference. Knock on wood. The only thing now is the fuel is leaking by the fuel filter connection. It appears to be where the fuel filter nut attaches to the carburetor, not where the fuel line attaches to the fuel filter bolt but could be wrong. The bottom part of the fuel line that attaches to the fuel pump is not leaking.

Important question, is there a certain way to re-install the fuel filter assembly and fuel line tube to the carburetor please? Am I supposed to use plumbers tape? Am I supposed to tighten the bolt that secures the fuel filter all the way or just partial way until snug? How tight do I tighten the fuel line?

matchek

Is there supposed to be any gasket or washer inside the fuel filter housing? I don't have any. Not sure if that would help with any leaking. It is a slow leak but not good.

matchek

It has been a little frustrating. Car runs great now but I have this little leak coming from the fill line nut that connects to the carb. It looks like there is supposed to be a nylon washer connected to the nut - hopefully that is all that is needed to stop the leak. I don't know if there was one when I removed it, but nothing is there now. Went to two auto places and they don't have it and cannot even order it. The kid at AutoZone didn't even know what an Oldsmobile was, ugh. I ordered it and wait another 3 days. I hope that is the only issue. I read online of some people have leaks after replacing their fuel filter because the threads don't seat right when re-installed.

This is off topic, but because someone mentioned, as far as running the car while in storage, I think it depends what weather it is being stored and how long you run it. I live in humid climates and have found it is not good to leave my cars sitting around for too long without starting. And another key thing, is at a minimum, when I start it, I make sure it at least gets to operating temperature and some more - not a quick start and stop. So it depends on how you do it. I could see if being not good to letting cars sit too in dry climates too without starting but I don't have experience with that .

matchek

As an update, since I ordered a fuel filter nut washer from quadrajetspower.com, I went ahead an ordered a new nut as well just in case. To my surprise it was a little different from what I had. It came with the washer, but it has a larger head which made the fuel line easier to install. I went ahead and install that, used teflon tape on the fittings (although I know it has minimal effect) and no leaks. So far it runs better already. I will drive it this week and see if it drives better as well.

Vintage Chief

I recall there were/are a couple different styles of the nut/washer assembly for the Q-Jets (I had to review them myself when ordering parts for a couple of different Q-Jets). Glad you found the correct nut/washer - it makes a big difference. I believe they are both crush washers (but slightly different in size). Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the Teflon tape is a no-no for that application - it is not needed and in fact can/could disintegrate and small pieces enter the fuel stream, disintegrate further and possibly/eventually enter jets/rod bases etc. Others do it, but the general advice is to leave the Teflon tape for plumbing of water pipes not fuel lines. Your call though.

matchek

Thanks - good to know. Yeah, I spent several hours before I ordered the nut. One would think that nut and washer would be easy to order, but it wasn't. But since this site speacializes in Rochester carbs, thought I would give it a try.

I thought about that Teflon tape disintegrating too, but Teflon tape is stable up to 500F well above the operating engine temperature. I thought about not using it, but I would have kicked myself if the small leak was there and had to redo it again. It is not fun installing the nut, filter and fuel line. It makes sense not to use it though. The next time I change out the filter I will re-install without the tape.

Appreciate the feedback. I never would have thought about replacing the filter after such low miles, but something cleared up when I disengaged the fuel line and put the new paper-style filter in. Runs so much better now!

Vintage Chief

It isn't the temperature it's the contact with gasoline fuel which will/can degrade the Teflon tape. There are some (supposedly) which are compatible, but they still remain not recommended; again, your call. I know there was one type many years ago, and most likely available today which was a gasoline fuel inert substance which could be used. More information than we need to discuss.

This small little thread basically explains the deal fairly well - you can perform your own research. Glad the fuel filter made the difference.

https://askinglot.com/is-white-teflo...line-resistant

matchek

Teflon tape is supposed to be non-reactive with fuel, but your point is well taken. Why take the risk if one does not need to.

matchek

I would not sleep knowing the tape is in there so I went ahead and removed it and re- assembled and no leaks - so didn't need it. What appears to be key is the washer. One thing I noticed is the tape falls apart inside the threads by the rotating movement so even if not reactive it is not sturdy unless maybe there is special tape that does not do that. Thank you - fully agree - avoid tape on fuel lines unless some last resort.

Vintage Chief

Agree, the 'correctly' sized washer is key.