My 68 came without a key...the local GM dealer is having trouble finding the proper key copy. We can get the key codes from Vintage Services. Trying to keep car orig., as possible without having to buy another ignition switch.
Anybody have an original key for a 68 442 that would have the correct number for a copy?

Thanks,
Ted

 

On that car, the ignition / door key is a "C" and the secondary key is a "D."

"C"-blank numbers are:
GM 7034680, Briggs & Stratton 320652, Curtis B50, Dominion P98C, ESP B50, EZ B50, Ilco P1098C, Jet B50, Silca GM20R, Star HBR14C, Taylor P91C.

"D"-blank numbers are:
GM 7034702, Briggs & Stratton 320653, Curtis B51, Dominion U98D, ESP B43, Ilco O1098D, Silca GM4, Star OBR7, Taylor 098D, National B43.

A search of Amazon, eBay, etc. will turn up hundreds of them.

- Eric

 

Thanks for the imfo....i am not sure why the dealer could not figure this out?!

Ted

 

Because most of the folks working at the $tealer are idiots (there are occasional exceptions).

- Eric

 

If all you need is a key blank, the Amazon search leads to


You can't change the dash lock cylinder, or the ign switch mechanical/ electrical part, w/o the key that fits it- because you have to turn the cylinder to ACC then insert a wire into the special hole, then turn more CCW, to remove the cylinder.

The dealer, at least here, as of the last year or so, has become clueless and all computerized. They could not cut a key for me when I provided the key cuts. Utterly useless.

I have the key code books that tell the 6 individual key cuts for your locks' 4-character code, which is stamped into the cylinder usually.

You say you have the six cut numbers already? If so, any competent oldschool locksmith, preferably with the chunking pliers tool, can make the key you need.

Now, for getting the code... if you don't have the key, which is required to remove the lock cylinder from the dash, here is the trick: The door locks should use the same key. Remove a door lock- fairly painless procedure- scrape the crud off the outside of the lock asm., and read the code- like 1N34 for example. With that code, and my magic books [which any Locksmith should have also], you can then know the six key cuts to set on the kerchunking pliers.

Voila'

That key should now fit the dash ign switch, so you can remove the switch, or just use it to your heart's content.

There is always the possibility that the doors or the ign switch have been changed, and no longer match. You may wish to pull BOTH door locks and make sure they match code, or get one of each coded key to try on the dash switch.

 

Verify that a "C" blank really does fit in your lock first. The rectangular head C blanks have the same grooves as the octagonal ones, so you might want to go to your local Home Depot or whatever and just buy a blank "C" key to try it before having a more expensive octagonal head key cut. If you are unable to find someone who can cut one for you, PM me. I have a Curtis key clipper and the code book to make GM keys. I also have inexpensive Chinesium blanks for a test key.

 

I did not know that.

Makes it much easier to find an effective key in a pinch.

- Eric

 

octania, I have the door lock key code.....you have a pm....hopefully you can help me out....

TY,
Ted

 

If it has the original door locks in it. Take the passenger door lock out (code only on the passenger lock cylinder) and take it to your local lock smith. He can cut a key from the code on that lock cylinder.

 

I took out the pass and drivers side lock cylinders and both have the same code on them.

Ted

 

Ted,

PM sent.

 

just for the record, for others who may encounter this...

codes for keys located on driver and passenger door locks.Both had the same code and fit the ignition
trunk lock cylinder also had a code and it and the glove box are the same key.
the locksmith came to the car and cut the keys on site.
He even had C and D keys from Oldsmobile , with an inlay with the Rocket emblem and the word "quality" underneath

thanks for all the help!

 

Does anyone know if there is a code on the console lock? I picked up a console awhile back and took the lock out but can't find anything on it. I was hoping to get it re keyed to match the other similar keys but would just take a working key at this point.

 

usually a console lock cylinder [the ~3/8" diameter part that accepts the key) will have the code stamped into it on the side near the end. Teeeeeensy digits.

sometimes not

 

Well, I took the lock cylinder out and looked at it under a 10x loupe and found nothing. There was a B2 visible with plain site on the latch part, but I am guessing that was a part number of sorts.

So my question.... What are my options? Can I buy some sort of replacement lock for about the same price of getting a key made without knowing the code? Which key is the lock suppose to match the glovebox and trunk? I am tempted to just get all new locks except the ignition. Is it possible to get all the doors, trunk,glovebox, and console all on one key and run the ignition on another?

 

The trunk,console and glovebox all use the same key
The ignition and door locks are the same

That is the way on my 68 442 and the 70 CS....

Of course assuming all is orig to car

I would buy new if you cannot find the code MTC or find a console with a key

Ted

 

Yup same thing happened on me with the H/O...

Lost my keys for about a year ><. Popped the driver side lock out and called the key guy here in town with the serial number and it was made by the time i got there. Cool info but also scary on how easy you could steal one of these...

 

You're worried about THIS? Seriously? Do you really think a thief is going to take the time to disassemble the door (after unlocking the car without the key), remove the lock, and have a new key made???

Slide hammer, screwdriver, and 30 seconds is all you need to steal one of these cars. Worry about THAT!

 

 

Heck, for a pre-'69 car, all you need is a coat hanger and a few inches of wire

- Eric

 

For that matter (and to drive this thread even further into the weeds), have you seen the flatbed tow trucks with an overhead crane that picks up the car by the wheels?

 

Very interesting thread! So, would my 1972 Vista Cruiser also have had the same C and D key codes pictured in Sammy's post above with the inlay with the Rocket and "Quality" written on it? I searched on ebay and they sell "GM" keys as the correct blanks (I mean, original as delivered on a 1972 Olds.)

Sammy, are you saying your got those key blanks from an Oldsmobile dealer? Do you mind saying who that dealer was?

Also, my ignition switch has been replaced, so I guess I have to get mine re-keyed to work off my door keys or can I get an ignition lock keyed to code somewhere?

Thanks, Tom

 

Tom, the key blanks I got from a local locksmith who said they they were his last set he had from years ago......the local dealership was more than useless in helping
I cannot answer the second part of your question....my car had all the original locks and ignition but no keys. Joe helped me on this....

 

All 1972 US-built GM cars used "C" and "D" key blanks for the square and oval keys, respectively. A replacement lock cylinder could have used any of the possible square blanks, and some replacement lock cylinders will accept any of the various year blanks, so without seeing the lock cylinder, it is impossible to know what you have. I can help with identification and re-keying. PM me for more info.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, because I really like the look of your C and D keys with the Rocket inlay, but I've read a few sources that say those keys were available some time in the 1980s? Do you have any information on this and could anyone post any pictures of their original sets of keys for a 1972 Olds (C and D blanks)?

Thanks, Tom

 

Here are some key blanks that are being claimed to be original C and D Olds Cutlss key blanks.

 

Here is one claimed to be for a 1971 and 1973 Olds. (They aren't selling the ones for a 1972 Olds, but I'm guessing it would look the same. Does this fancy key head ring a bell with any of you original Olds owners of the 1970s?

 

"As far as I know," the keys pictured here are the keys that the factory provided with the car:




The key pictured here was an aftermarket key sold by some locksmiths:




- Eric

 

As Eric points out, this is an aftermarket blank. The 1971 model year used "A" and "B" blanks. 1973 used "E" and "H" blanks.

 

Thanks Eric and Joe. So, it looks like even Olds keys never said more than GM on them when delivered new in 1972. Even though I like the look of the "Rocket" keys delivered with new cars in the 1980s and these 1968 C & D key blanks with "Your Key to Greater Value" I'm not sure I'd pay $25 to $30 for a set of blanks just for that. One of the Ebay ads claims the Briggs and Straton key is the one that is pictured in the 1968 owners manual.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brilliant-Ch...item1ea510eb2b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/391187706687...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

The 1960s octagonal and round keys came both with the B&S logo and the GM logo. I just picked up a few of the latter at Hershey on Thursday.

 

I just noticed another weird thing on my 1972 Vista Cruiser. I had assumed that the two separate (non-original) keys I got with my car were for the doors and the ignition, but I just noticed that they are two C keys and they fit the doors, ignition and rear gate glass too. As far as the glove box, the key will go in the lock, but it doesn't turn around inside it and the glove box opens whether the key is in there or not. Was the rear glass on a VC operated by the door/ ignition key? Was there a D key for just the glove box?

 

Most of us bought the keys from Curtis in large quantities because they were about half the price of the factory blanks. I believe those all were B&S blanks.

Joe, back in the day we cut so many keys I knew the cut depths by sight. I could look at a key on a ring hanging in the ignition and cut the blank to open the door (once the door lock differed from the ignition).

 

Cool. I bet you did that just to impress people, even though a slim jim would've been easier.

 

Welcome. I've moved your post to it's own thread, where you'll likely get better responses. As noted, add details on exactly what you're looking for.