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The 2004R is better in that it weights less, which means better gas mileage AND faster acceleration, on that point alone. It is smaller in size, which means less install problems, like with tunnels and other structural install problems. Did I mention it can shift like a dream in normal driving with fast but soft light throttle shifts, and it is very quite, or mine is. Added gearing in first and second over the 400 which has advantages. Over drive is ,67, which can mean greater gas mileage and less wear on the engine and less engine noise. Or it can allow a steeper rear gear to multiple the power. Actually you can do both, for example I had a 2.8 rear gear and went to a 3.55, but with the .67 overdrive it is now 2.38.
My thoughts on the input shaft is to use a good harden one, with lower stall covertors and trans pressures than the race ones use.
Why do you think the shift lever is spring loaded and you have to pull it towards you to shift? Tell you what. Disconnect the rod from the steering column to the trans, put the shifter in PARK, then try to move it without pulling towards yourself first.
Uh, OK, thanks for affirming my earlier description of the safety gates:
Originally Posted by JohnnyBs68S
While there ARE "gates" that prevent you from bumping it into "R" from "N" and into "P" from "R" (you have to pull the shift lever towards you against an internal spring to get around them),
Obviously these gates are located in the column mechanism and not the trans. However, they have nothing to do with the detents that resist rotational movement of the shift lever from each of the P-R-N-OD-D-2-1 positions which are part of the transmission control lever mechanism inside the trans, not in the '68 Jetaway column shift mechanism. While it is important to align the gates and detents up for at least the P, R and N positions (the NSS switch needs this alignment too) by use of an adjustable ratio lever system like the Kugel kit I used, there is nothing in the '68 Jetaway column shifter that prevents selection of the 1st or 2nd gear positions in a 200-4R trans. I don't really care if you believe it or not, I've done it and it works like a charm and doesn't shift positions when hitting a bump (because there is only one set of detents in this mechanical system).
As previously mentioned, the column shifter of a '64 Jetstar may be different than my '68 Cutlass, so YMMV.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; October 25th, 2021 at 05:11 AM.
Is the rubber tranny mount the same on the 200r4 as the original in the car now.
does anyone know a good speedometer cable to use. Can i get a sheet metal bell housing cover anywhere.
Mount is commonly a “universal” aftermarket piece for GM transmissions. This is a new development to my knowledge but maybe I just missed it a decade or two back. I don’t think the original will work but I really don’t know.
Speedo Cable - I know the stock TH350 cable works in “A” bodies, hope that’s a help.
Converter Cover - There is a “universal” cover that sort of fits. The starter hole needs to be cut out and I don’t remember if any other trimming is required. TH350 cover fits, not quite perfect but very usable. Ideally, you search around and find a unicorn cover from Olds engined “G” body with 200-4R. Somewhere in the 78-88 RWD 88, 98, Cutlass there were 200-4R’s used but I don’t know details. I think it needs to be Olds so the starter is on left side, not sure about starter location on Buick or Pontiac but Chevy is on right.
Here’s a lead, I would want pics of actual part - CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
Last edited by bccan; November 3rd, 2021 at 08:34 PM.
If you are talking about the one in the Summit ad you posted above, you are incorrect. In that photo, the engine is down, the trans is up, and the carb is to the left. That puts the notch on the passenger side. FYI, anything like that you find in Summit or Jegs is nearly ALWAYS for a Chevy engine, even it it says "Olds".
Where did you find that cover, it looks right. I found the universal cover fit too tight and contacted the flex plate under hard throttle on my Olds 350, it sounded supercharged😁.
Is the rubber tranny mount the same on the 200r4 as the original in the car now.
Yes, this one is available from Amazon, but they are not expensive from a walk-in parts store. The factory crossmember bolts will still fit but you will need to use metric bolts to fit the trans.
Originally Posted by 330jetstar
does anyone know a good speedometer cable to use. Can i get a sheet metal bell housing cover anywhere.
Looks like your donor already has a speedo cable output so your factory cable should connect to it. Mine did.
Originally Posted by 330jetstar
What im working with
Last edited by cjsdad; November 11th, 2021 at 06:04 PM.
Here is how I solved the TV Cable-to-carb issue. I changed over from the factory throttle pivot and connecting rod to a later cable. My modified intake would not allow a factory throttle bracket to be installed so I cut the important bit off and bolted it to a homemade mount. Search the wrecking yards and you can probably find a factory one. I cut the hole for the TV Cable in a piece of angle with a lot of drilled holes and a lot of filing.
Any longer driveshaft will come from a truck. The yokes and U-joints will be too large to mate with axle in your car. Take your existing shaft to a driveshaft shop. They will reuse the ends and cut a new tube to the correct length. In the scheme of what you will be spending on this swap, the driveshaft cost is a nit.
I found that most trucks have a two-piece drive shaft with a carrier bearing in the middle. Look for Monte Carlos or station wagons to find a long enough drive shaft. The one in my 67 Cutlass was 60 inches long and I couldn't find a one piece replacement so I'm still using the factory torque-tube, I think it's called. Eventually I will have a new one made. Also, if you find one long enough but it has the larger u-joints, they make adaptor joints that will fit both. Someone put a 12 bolt rear in my Cutlass and used the adaptor u-joint. Took me a minute to figure that one out.
Last edited by cjsdad; November 11th, 2021 at 06:36 PM.
October 24th, 2021, 05:46 PM
Uh, OK, thanks for affirming my earlier description of the safety gates:
