matt69olds

I thought you tore the case gasket. guess it didn’t read that or catch it.

good luck with the build and install. How everything goes smoothly.

Schne442

Matt
Thanks again for all the help
Gary

Schne442

I called TransGo and spoke to their Tech support about getting replacement gaskets.
They told me that I could use one of the Gaskets from my rebuild kit and just cut off any area not covered by the spacer Plate
If you need to replace the Case Gasket you just need to add the hole as Matt stated in his post.
So from the horses mouth, if you tear one of your TransGo gaskets just use a stock one and modify as stated above, in post #79

I also pulled the Pump and added a thicker Pump spacer washer to improve End Play, all ready to reinstall into the car.

Finally, I have come to the conclusion that after all my Post Rebuild repairs, The reason for the torn up Bearing was the fact that I did not have sufficient End Play from the start.
I realized that when I first installed the Forward and direct Drums into the Sun Gear the Direct drum tabs that lock into the sun gear were sitting flush, after all the removal and assembly one of the Direct Clutches was not completely seated into the forward drum, That was the whole reason why the Pump ate into the Bearing.
The arrow bellow shows the Tabs that need to lock into the sun gear, as much as I turned and rocked the input shaft I was not able to get it to drop down further until I took it all apart to replace the bearing. Once I reassembled it, it just dropped down the full thickness of one of the clutches. and once I installed the Pump I finally had the End play that I was never able to feel after the first rebuild. Once I knew how it was supposed to fit together it is obvious that that was the issue all along.
As I have said before, with experience comes knowledge
Picture from first rebuild, assembly before figuring out how it is supposed to fit together

Schne442

Yesterday I got the Trans back in the car and ready to take out for a test drive.
I proceeded to pull out of the Garage and noticed a trail of fluid following me along the driveway.
Put it away for the evening and planned on lifting it back up today to see what was leaking.
Today I noticed the top cooler line had a leak, I unthreaded the line fitting to see why it was leaking and noticed that I somehow cross threaded the Trans fitting.
As hard as I tried to not do it, seems it was meant to be
So now I need to get a replacement fitting and I might as well get new lines since I bent them up pretty good on the first reinstall.
at some point I will get back on the road and my self inflicted issues will be behind me
If you have been following this Thread, I hope you learned from some of my issues and mistakes along with my documenting the process.
Like they say if it was easy anyone could do it.

matt69olds

The factory cooler line fittings use a aluminum or copper washer to seal to the case. Don’t try to use pipe thread fittings, it’s pretty easy to crack the case. Hopefully you forgot the sealing washer, or it’s damaged in some way.

Good luck, keep at it. You will get it figured out.

Schne442

Today I replaced the stripped cooler line fitting with a used oem one I found from a guy on eBay,

and a new set of lines from Inline Tube
While I had the car up for this repair I noticed one of my Engine mount bolts looked loose so I tightened it up and then checked the Drivers side and
found the Nut was missing. Luckily the bolt stayed in the mount. I went for a quick spin around the neighborhood just to see how it felt and to
check for anymore leaks. Everything looks good so far, shifts nice and smooth and no more clunking while shifting from reverse to drive. May get out later today to go for a longer shakedown drive.
Fingers crossed

Schne442

I got out for a test drive and car drives great,
Had to make a minor adjustment on the Detent cable.
Finally finished and boy was this a learning experience.
Would like to thank everyone who offered suggestions and answered my questions
The End...