Steering Wheel Not Centered
#1
Steering Wheel Not Centered
I've been moving the car around with cracked and broken steering wheel. Yesterday, I went to install the horn button and the sport steering wheel and discovered the steering column shaft is about 90 degrees off-center. The pitman arm seems centered, the tie rods look similar in length, I can say for certain the steering gear box is perfectly centered lock-to-lock; so my question is this, can I adjust for this by reinstalling the intermediate shaft on the end of the steering column? I think the steering gear has a splined tab that would prevent me from just rotating it 90 degrees, the intermediate shaft connects to the rag joint with 2 locating pins so I can't adjust it here, that leaves only the steering column to intermediate shaft connection. Here's some pics
Rodney
Steering wheel is off-center when the match marks are lined up.
I assume the match marks on the steering wheel and the column shaft need to match up?
Rodney
Steering wheel is off-center when the match marks are lined up.
I assume the match marks on the steering wheel and the column shaft need to match up?
#2
The spline on the steering box input shaft only goes on one way. The rag joint really only goes on one way, but can be forced on 180 deg out. The pitman arm goes onto the pitman shaft on the steering box in one of four positions. If you're 90 degrees out, that would be the most likely cause. On the other hand, is isn't possible to have the box centered with the wheels straight ahead and have the pitman shaft installed incorrectly. And yes, the match marks need to align at the steering wheel.
The only way to be 100% certain is to disconnect the center link from the pitman arm (you might need to also disconnect it from the idler arm to get enough clearance) and count the turns in the box from lock-to-lock, then come back exactly half way to center the box. You need to disconnect the center link to be sure you are hitting the stops in the box and not the steering arms against the lower control arms. With the box in the centered position, look at the match marks at the steering wheel - they should be straight up. If not, there is a steering shaft clocking problem that needs to be fixed. Also look at the pitman arm. It should be pointed forward. If not, there is also a pitman arm clocking problem. I should ask, is this an A-body steering box? A-body boxes have symmetric internal stops. Other applications for Saginaw boxes (the F-body cars come to mind) have asymmetric internal stops and if used in an A-body will result in different steering from right to left.
Once you have the box centered and the steering shaft clocked properly, then reinstall the center link. Now verify that the wheels are straight ahead when the box is centered. If not, you need to shorten the tie rod on one side and symmetrically lengthen the one on the other to get the wheels straight ahead with the box centered.
The only way to be 100% certain is to disconnect the center link from the pitman arm (you might need to also disconnect it from the idler arm to get enough clearance) and count the turns in the box from lock-to-lock, then come back exactly half way to center the box. You need to disconnect the center link to be sure you are hitting the stops in the box and not the steering arms against the lower control arms. With the box in the centered position, look at the match marks at the steering wheel - they should be straight up. If not, there is a steering shaft clocking problem that needs to be fixed. Also look at the pitman arm. It should be pointed forward. If not, there is also a pitman arm clocking problem. I should ask, is this an A-body steering box? A-body boxes have symmetric internal stops. Other applications for Saginaw boxes (the F-body cars come to mind) have asymmetric internal stops and if used in an A-body will result in different steering from right to left.
Once you have the box centered and the steering shaft clocked properly, then reinstall the center link. Now verify that the wheels are straight ahead when the box is centered. If not, you need to shorten the tie rod on one side and symmetrically lengthen the one on the other to get the wheels straight ahead with the box centered.
#3
Joe:
This is a '72 A-body (442 convertible) its been a few years since I reassembled the front steering parts, but I'm pretty sure I rotated the gear box, lock-to-lock to find the center before installing the pitman arm. This is the original, stock gear box that came in the car but the column is a rebuilt tilt from an unknown donor car. Is it not possible to "re-clock" the intermediate shaft to the steering column or is this keyed like the pitman arm and rag joint? Could the rebuilt, tilt column introduce a clocking issue? Thanks
Rodney
This is a '72 A-body (442 convertible) its been a few years since I reassembled the front steering parts, but I'm pretty sure I rotated the gear box, lock-to-lock to find the center before installing the pitman arm. This is the original, stock gear box that came in the car but the column is a rebuilt tilt from an unknown donor car. Is it not possible to "re-clock" the intermediate shaft to the steering column or is this keyed like the pitman arm and rag joint? Could the rebuilt, tilt column introduce a clocking issue? Thanks
Rodney
#4
Joe:
This is a '72 A-body (442 convertible) its been a few years since I reassembled the front steering parts, but I'm pretty sure I rotated the gear box, lock-to-lock to find the center before installing the pitman arm. This is the original, stock gear box that came in the car but the column is a rebuilt tilt from an unknown donor car. Is it not possible to "re-clock" the intermediate shaft to the steering column or is this keyed like the pitman arm and rag joint? Could the rebuilt, tilt column introduce a clocking issue? Thanks
Rodney
This is a '72 A-body (442 convertible) its been a few years since I reassembled the front steering parts, but I'm pretty sure I rotated the gear box, lock-to-lock to find the center before installing the pitman arm. This is the original, stock gear box that came in the car but the column is a rebuilt tilt from an unknown donor car. Is it not possible to "re-clock" the intermediate shaft to the steering column or is this keyed like the pitman arm and rag joint? Could the rebuilt, tilt column introduce a clocking issue? Thanks
Rodney
The splines at the base of the column have a notch where the pinch bolt passes through the mating coupler. It really isn't possible to clock the joint 90 degrees and still insert the bolt (at least not without a BFH, and even then it would be pretty clear that wasn't the correct orientation).
The rag joint physically cannot be installed 90 deg off, only 180 off and again, that requires forcing the incorrect bolts into place. The rag joint uses two different diameter bolts specifically to force the assembly line workers to only install it one way. No, there is no way to change the clocking in the column either. The entire steering shaft from wheel to box is designed to only be assembled one way so the gorillas on the assembly line couldn't screw it up. You need to figure out if the joints are assembled correctly or not. My money is still on the pitman arm, which is the only part of the linkage that can be installed 90 degrees off. Alternately the box is not currently centered with the wheels straight ahead and you need to adjust the tie rods to correct that.
Last edited by joe_padavano; October 23rd, 2023 at 06:27 AM.
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