Macadoo

I may get in the shop this weekend, not sure yet but hoping so.

Macadoo

Warm the engine first, yes? I want the lifters pumped up before I measure?

Macadoo

I heard back from Mark. The cam he ground for me has a smaller base circle [typically] by .010 - .020. He did say that would be enough to cause some noise. Looks like adjustable rockers are in my future.

oldcutlass

If thats the case, you can measure the amount of preload you have. Grind the pedestals down to make up the difference. Not very hard to do.

RandyS

Wouldn't that be somewhat of a challenge to get them all perfectly flat?
I would have been nice if you were told up front that you would either have noisy lifters, or have to go with adjustable rockers...........

oldcutlass

captjim

Why not just get shorter pushrods for $50 or whatever?

coppercutlass

I believe he needs longer pushrods. But with out knowing truly where is now he really can't get the proper length. Although its a big more expensive the adjustables are the way to go. New pushrods (decent ones) will run 100. Custom length will run more for a specific size. You can buy in .050 incriments. It might be a bit more but its less hassle imo as long as all the other variables stay in check . Now another thing to keep in mind is the stud will now sit .060 taller since the pad will not be milled and the guide plate is .060 thick . You pattern will have to be checked to see if its still in a good spot you may need a diffrent pushrod. A little off center ain't bad . On my set up I'm currentlt running a 8.4 pushrod. To be dead center on the valve stem I need an 8.3 but due to the fact the rocker pad was not milled I can't get any lifter preload because the rocker bottoms out on the stud. Had the rocker pad been milled I would have been able to run the 8.3 and had the optimum pattern. Just some food for thought there. I might be cheap but also the most hassle free solution is usually money well spent. I think grinding the pedestals is a waste of time . If anything a longer pushrod and shimming the pedestals would be easier but that would have to be done with a pushrod checker to make sure you won't alter your geometry too much. You get a .050 longer pushrod . Find out how much preload you are getting with . Obviously you will end up with more than what you need ., so if you have .080 preload and you want .050 you will need .030 shims under the pedestals to gain that .050 preload. But to me that's a big waste of time. Get the adjustables givem half a turn and you will be in the range for proper pre load. With my set up half a turn was good for .040 pre load . Also not to open up a can of worms but guys get all in a tizzy about hot and cold lash. I had a reputable source tell me the oil will only change the lash appx. .003 . I'm bringing this up because if you go to adjustable its going to be the forts thing you will have to do once you button it up. I had a broken rocker on my 355 this past fall and I backed all the valves out. Since I had to inspect all the rockers. They where all pumped up. So I gave them all half a turn after there was no slack i fired the engine up and no noises . According to comps website or lunati half a turn is appx. .040 preload.

pogo69

the milling of the heads is probably easier said than done...also the adjustable push rods are probably not the best soulution in my opinion good ones are expensive and they are not as easy to set up as it sounds you may save a few bucks but all in all i would rater use the adjustable rockers

Macadoo

From Mark in response to the Comp Cams 1441-kit; "The pushrods supplied with their kit seldom fit, just an fyi."
Anyone else find this to be true?

@Copper: "if you go to adjustable its going to be the forts thing you will have to do once you button it up"
Forts thing? I don't know what that is. Will the adjustable rockers fit under the valve covers okay? I have those chrome things but they appeared to be about the same size as stock.

As for the expense of the adjustable rockers; the last time I had the covers off I pulled a couple of rockers and they looked to be wearing fast and unevenly so they would need replaced anyway. There's not a tremendous amount of wear but if I true everything else up and get the proper preload, those old rockers might throw the geometry off anyway.
I was going to run the cost by "She Who Must be Obeyed" tonight but we got our propane bill today so I may need to wait

coppercutlass

I meant first mac lol. Damn auto correct on my phone. Once you install them you have to set the valve lash before running them . Sorry about the confusion.

Macadoo

No big deal Copper. Do you think I'll have fitment issues with the valve covers? Are the roller rockers much taller?

oldcutlass

If you get polylocks make sure you get the short ones. By the way the crimp nuts work fine for mild engine.

RandyS

The short poly locks will fit under stock valve covers if you use 2 VC gaskets.

coppercutlass

I got tall covers and have never tried running them with stock covers so I can't speak for that.

pogo69

the basic comp cams 1441 etc will work with stock valve covers

Macadoo

Yeah, I'll stick with the crimp nuts for this engine. But it's going to be a while before I can toss the $250.
I'll post back here when I get the kit.

Macadoo

Good tip if I have issues. Thanks Randy.

olds 307 and 403

I may be putting mine up for sale, still look really good and I would sell much cheaper. I believe the pushrods are wrong and junk in that kit, according to people who have bought it. I bought my heads with these installed and different pushrods. It will be awhile before I change them over.

Macadoo

Same thing Mark (cutlassefi) said. I wonder if that has been addressed. I may contact them and ask.
I appreciate the offer, olds. But I think for rockers, it may be best to go with new. But I may be wrong.

coppercutlass

Mac I do have a buddy who mentioned he had brand new ones comps just the rockers I belive . He is a member here ( F-85 ) he is in illinois . Might be worth a shot.

Macadoo

Hey, thanks Copper, I'll send him a PM.

The kid and I took some measurements this morning. A crude method but it worked. Oversimplified; I placed a straight 1x2 (oak) across the valve cover surface between each set of rockers, took a measurement with my dial caliper using the pin that slides out of the bottom, torqued the rocker to 25-27 foot pounds, and measured again. Then I subtracted to get the difference. So instead of measuring the pushrod movement I measured the rocker arm movement, placing the caliper pin on top or just to the side of the pushrod cup. If that makes sense. Anyhow, it was as accurate as necessary.
I didn't do them all as they were coming up with the same readings. 0.015 to 0.025 inches. Even with a 0.010 margin of error either way, I'm still under (or barely at) the recommended preload.
Time to start selling odds and ends on eBay. I still have the chrome T-bolts for the valve covers, the original exhaust manifolds, an original working rear speaker, the original gold valve covers (need painted). I also have a Dell core 2 Duo laptop I'd let go for $75.
I'll place an ad.

coppercutlass

Send me info on the lap top .

Macadoo

PM sent

80 Rocket

Lots of posts here. Is the intake off this engine? That would be the easiest and 100% accurate way to verify everything.

Buy one of these:


http://www.grainger.com/product/BLAC...er-Gauge-1Q224

Place the appropriate size gauge between your pushrod snap ring and plunger and WHAM-O, you got your lifter preload.

Macadoo

Yeah, if the intake was off it would be much easier, for sure. This was my first build and didn't realize I needed to do the valve train before the intake. Lesson learned for next time....for that 455 I keep daydreaming about