Pressure wash engine before i paint?
#1
Pressure wash engine before i paint?
Hello. I have a 72 cutlass with a 350. The engine is out now. I plan to take the engine top end apart and install new seals and not much more. I don't have the means for a rebuild right now. I can do that later when i win the lottery. However, i do want to paint the engine after i install the new gaskets, seals, fuel pump, oil pump, timing chain, etc. small stuff. I have wire wheeled the block, bristle brushed with a toothbrush size brush using lacquer thinner and degreaser and wiped the whole thing down with solvent soaked rags, but there is still a layer of grease in the hard to reach areas. I want to have it as clean as possible before i take it apart.
Would it be silly and or dangerous to powerwash the block with water and an 1800psi powerwasher? Everything is still on the block just as it was when i pulled it out of the engine complete. The trans and torque converted have obviously been removed.
Thanks!
Chris
Would it be silly and or dangerous to powerwash the block with water and an 1800psi powerwasher? Everything is still on the block just as it was when i pulled it out of the engine complete. The trans and torque converted have obviously been removed.
Thanks!
Chris
#4
I must disagree.
Never pressure-wash any assembled component. With thousands of PSI, pressure washers drive abrasive grit into every tiny opening, filling bearings and passages with destructive material.
If you're completely disassembling it, and are going to be able to properly clean it out, then sure, pressure wash it, but if you're going to be keeping it together, I wouldn't risk it.
- Eric
Never pressure-wash any assembled component. With thousands of PSI, pressure washers drive abrasive grit into every tiny opening, filling bearings and passages with destructive material.
If you're completely disassembling it, and are going to be able to properly clean it out, then sure, pressure wash it, but if you're going to be keeping it together, I wouldn't risk it.
- Eric
#5
I assume you are not taking apart the bottom end, which makes cleaning the block pretty dicey. If you wash with it assembled, then you have to be very careful about every opening. IMO, the valve covers are the only particularly difficult place. Clean the valve covers separately and completely dry out. Put a lint-free rag in the head drain hols, bolt on covers and stuff/tape the breather holes. Stuff rags in the intake and tape it (don't have a carb on there). Plug all the intake vacuum ports. Install a distributor, plugs and oil filter. Install a balancer. Keep the oil fill cap on. Avoid spraying directly at the crank seal and the valve cover/oil pain parting lines.
Don't forget to remove ALL the rags at the end. "Rag sucked into intake runner" is my favorite random car fix.
It's better than nothing, but by far the best way to get paint to stick is completely tear down the engine and run it through a hot tank.
Note that it's a good idea to use primer on the tins - valve covers, oil fill tube, oil filter adapter. The cast iron should not be primed.
Don't forget to remove ALL the rags at the end. "Rag sucked into intake runner" is my favorite random car fix.
It's better than nothing, but by far the best way to get paint to stick is completely tear down the engine and run it through a hot tank.
Note that it's a good idea to use primer on the tins - valve covers, oil fill tube, oil filter adapter. The cast iron should not be primed.
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svnt442
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January 24th, 2011 06:52 AM