auto_editor

God bless Oldsmobile engineers for keeping the 307 viable until the big RWD V8 wagons could be certified no more. To do it, however, required packing more hoses, tubing, canisters, weird plastic globes, etc., into the engine compartment than you'd find on a 1950s Martian movie spacecraft.

Having lived most of my life in California, I learned that EVERY SINGLE ONE of those things has to be how and where GM originally installed them before you even get a chance at failing emissions testing (which my '89 certainly would).

But I'm in Michigan now, and my first instinct is to try and "free-up" the power I just know that emissions crap is stifling. A stronger instinct, however, is to avoid walking. SO...

1.) Is this how a 1989 Custom Cruiser engine compartment is supposed to look? [So far as I know it's all stock, though legend has it that the transmission cooler was upgraded shortly after purchase due to some flaw or other.]

2.) The belt that runs the A/C and smog pumps is gone with no ill effects. Could/should something else disappear to SAFELY eke-out a few more ponies? [She's a little hard to start in the morning, huffing and chuffing and wiggling for about 15 seconds under part throttle until something (the choke?) finally steps in and smooths everything out.]

3.) That cold-start issue can only get worse as it gets colder. Other than a new hood "blanket" (know where I can find one?), what cold-weather gear or get-ups should I look into? [I know this car has been in N. OH & S. MI its whole life, and Olds built a well-engineered car, but I REALLY don't want to walk.]

Here's what I/we are working with:





Thanks in advance...

Drew

Lady72nRob71

This looks like the typical 307 setup as I know it. My 86 is very similar.
Unfortunately, not much can be done easily to free up some power, but this site is worth checking out:
http://tlentz.oldsgmail.com/more_power.html

Note the following at the bottom under the "not recommended" section:
Removing the A.I.R. pump. It doesn't take a significant amount of horsepower to run, and removing it will cause a rough idle and incorrect [lean] air/fuel mixture since the computer is expecting to see the added oxygen at the O2 sensor from the fresh air pumped in.

Something is wrong to make it start hard when cold. Mine and my mom's prior Olds both had 307s and started great when cold. I did have to adjust mine a notch richer a while back.

Try putting the belt back on the AIR pump and AC compressor. If you do not plan to use the AC (ie - does not work, etc), then it does not have to be super tight.

Make sure the flapper thing in the air cleaner is working and that the aluminum pipe is in placing going from the air cleaner snorkle to the manifold stove.

Lastly, check the operation of the preheat valve at the back of the LH exhaust manifold. It should route exhaust through the intake (or something like that) when cold to help cold weather warmup.
Also check for vacuum leaks. If lean, then rough cold idle will occure. I am convince there is enough vacuum hose on these motors to reach from here to Mars.......

The 307 Y is low in HP but is a very smooth running easy starting engine when all is right.

Oldsguy

The under hood blanket is more for sound insulation than keeping the engine warm in the winter. As Rob has said, the choke and the pre-heat valve heat up the engine pretty quick. I agree that a choke mis-alignment or a lean air/fuel mixture can be your culprit.

oldsca

Don't really see anything missing. I have an `87 vin 9 and it looks pretty close.

Wayne

Rickman48

I had a '86 Pontiac Grand Prix 2 + 2 with the standard Chevy 305 [not H.O.]
The thermostat stuck at 18,000 mies, and all I had in the garage was a 180 degree.
Checked with the factory, and the 195 was for 'short trip' fire-off of the converter, and since I passed emissions with about 1/2 the passing numbers, I left it in!
Mileage and performance gains were about 20% WITH NO OTHER CHANGES!!!
Also had a K+N air filter, but wanted to keep it basically stock, for the warrantee.
That motor didn't burn a drop, did a water pump, chain and a couple - 3 carbs, but never even had the V.C.'s off!! Sold @ 235k miles.
Athough a PIA to change, it'd be one of the 1st things I'd do! Even in Caifornia!

InfoJunkie

If it has more than 100k milles I would suggest a new timing set for it. If the valve timing is off it won't run right. A new set will make it act almost like it was brand new.