Harmonic Balancer bad wobble
February 3rd, 2015, 07:30 PM
#1
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Harmonic Balancer bad wobble
My balancer has a bad wobble and like a idiot I kept driving it and now it sorta has a knocking sound coming from it. When I rev it up it squeaks then it stops.
350 Rocket.
Anyone know how to replace it? Thanks
350 Rocket.
Anyone know how to replace it? Thanks
February 3rd, 2015, 07:36 PM
#2
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I assume it is for the Cutlass in the picture. I have never pulled the one of my 72 Cutlass but it is not really a big deal. You will probably need a puller and then possibly a piece of threaded rod to screw into the end of the crankshaft. You should be able to take a couple large flat washers and slide over the threaded rod and then put a nut on it and as you tighten the nut if will pull the balancer back onto the crankshaft. The take out the threaded rod and put the original bolt back on the crankshaft. If you have a shop manual it will give you step by step instructions.
February 3rd, 2015, 08:01 PM
#4
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I assume it is for the Cutlass in the picture. I have never pulled the one of my 72 Cutlass but it is not really a big deal. You will probably need a puller and then possibly a piece of threaded rod to screw into the end of the crankshaft. You should be able to take a couple large flat washers and slide over the threaded rod and then put a nut on it and as you tighten the nut if will pull the balancer back onto the crankshaft. The take out the threaded rod and put the original bolt back on the crankshaft. If you have a shop manual it will give you step by step instructions.
February 3rd, 2015, 08:16 PM
#6
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You need to pull, and presumably replace, your balancer.
Use a 1⅛" socket, an long, sturdy breaker bar, and a pipe.
You'll either have to lock the motor, by locking the gear ring on the flexplate or by feeding rope into a cylinder through the spark plug hole, or you can attach the breaker bar and pipe in such a way that they rest on the ground on the driver's side, and then bump the starter to break the bolt loose.
After that, use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer - you will need to remove the fan belts, and would do well to remove the radiator.
The new balancer will need to be pressed on if it's a tight fit, otherwise the mounting bolt will pull it on. If it just slides on, you've got a problem.
- Eric
Use a 1⅛" socket, an long, sturdy breaker bar, and a pipe.
You'll either have to lock the motor, by locking the gear ring on the flexplate or by feeding rope into a cylinder through the spark plug hole, or you can attach the breaker bar and pipe in such a way that they rest on the ground on the driver's side, and then bump the starter to break the bolt loose.
After that, use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer - you will need to remove the fan belts, and would do well to remove the radiator.
The new balancer will need to be pressed on if it's a tight fit, otherwise the mounting bolt will pull it on. If it just slides on, you've got a problem.
- Eric
February 3rd, 2015, 08:21 PM
#7
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You need to pull, and presumably replace, your balancer.
Use a 1⅛" socket, an long, sturdy breaker bar, and a pipe.
You'll either have to lock the motor, by locking the gear ring on the flexplate or by feeding rope into a cylinder through the spark plug hole, or you can attach the breaker bar and pipe in such a way that they rest on the ground on the driver's side, and then bump the starter to break the bolt loose.
After that, use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer - you will need to remove the fan belts, and would do well to remove the radiator.
The new balancer will need to be pressed on if it's a tight fit, otherwise the mounting bolt will pull it on. If it just slides on, you've got a problem.
- Eric
Use a 1⅛" socket, an long, sturdy breaker bar, and a pipe.
You'll either have to lock the motor, by locking the gear ring on the flexplate or by feeding rope into a cylinder through the spark plug hole, or you can attach the breaker bar and pipe in such a way that they rest on the ground on the driver's side, and then bump the starter to break the bolt loose.
After that, use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer - you will need to remove the fan belts, and would do well to remove the radiator.
The new balancer will need to be pressed on if it's a tight fit, otherwise the mounting bolt will pull it on. If it just slides on, you've got a problem.
- Eric
February 4th, 2015, 05:23 AM
#8
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Nothing a competent shade tree mechanic couldn't handle, you may even not need a puller. If you are replacing the damper then you can get brutal and remove the old one with a hammer and drift bar.
The hard bit might be tightening up the crankshaft bolt when you fit the new one. I would take off the starter motor and lock up the starter ring to do the job.
Roger.
The hard bit might be tightening up the crankshaft bolt when you fit the new one. I would take off the starter motor and lock up the starter ring to do the job.
Roger.
February 4th, 2015, 06:15 AM
#9
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Well, I guess that depends on how you define "average" and "tools" (and "person"...).
You need a torque wrench that will read to about 200 ft/lbs, a harmonic balancer puller (you can "free rent" these from the local chain auto parts store, but they're not expensive to buy), a breaker bar, and a 1⅛" socket (both of which you should have, regardless).
You can't change a timing chain without this stuff, so you decide what's "average."
But it's SO much easier to just use a puller...
- Eric
ps: Be SURE to remove the washer after you remove the crankshaft bolt, or an irresistible force will meet an immovable object.
You need a torque wrench that will read to about 200 ft/lbs, a harmonic balancer puller (you can "free rent" these from the local chain auto parts store, but they're not expensive to buy), a breaker bar, and a 1⅛" socket (both of which you should have, regardless).
You can't change a timing chain without this stuff, so you decide what's "average."
- Eric
ps: Be SURE to remove the washer after you remove the crankshaft bolt, or an irresistible force will meet an immovable object.
February 4th, 2015, 06:16 AM
#10
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That is the procedure for an average person with average tools.
If you acquire a replacement balancer and take it to a shop, it shouldn't be more than half an hour's charge. Although, if your belts haven't been changed recently, you MAW have them done while you've got it apart.
If you acquire a replacement balancer and take it to a shop, it shouldn't be more than half an hour's charge. Although, if your belts haven't been changed recently, you MAW have them done while you've got it apart.
February 4th, 2015, 06:25 AM
#11
'87 Delta 88 Royale
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February 4th, 2015, 07:48 AM
#12
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Washer is big, very thick, about ¼" thick and 1½" in diameter.
Washer is (obviously) held in place by bolt.
Washer sits deep in recess of balancer hub, about an inch in, where you really can't see in, especially if the engine is in the car.
Washer sits over the end of the crank, but also over a ¼" wide circumferential ridge inside the balancer hub, holding the balancer in place.
If you do not know that the washer is in there (because you can't see it), you will place the balancer in the hole, bearing against the washer, and not the end of the crank, you will attach the puller bolts to the balancer hub, and you will screw down the puller screw, thus pulling against the bolts, which pulls up the balancer, which pulls against the washer at the ridge, which pulls against the puller screw, which means you go exactly nowhere, until a thread strips.
- Eric
Washer is (obviously) held in place by bolt.
Washer sits deep in recess of balancer hub, about an inch in, where you really can't see in, especially if the engine is in the car.
Washer sits over the end of the crank, but also over a ¼" wide circumferential ridge inside the balancer hub, holding the balancer in place.
If you do not know that the washer is in there (because you can't see it), you will place the balancer in the hole, bearing against the washer, and not the end of the crank, you will attach the puller bolts to the balancer hub, and you will screw down the puller screw, thus pulling against the bolts, which pulls up the balancer, which pulls against the washer at the ridge, which pulls against the puller screw, which means you go exactly nowhere, until a thread strips.
- Eric
February 4th, 2015, 09:48 AM
#13
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I like to put a scrap bolt back in the crank WITH NO WASHER to give the puller forcing screw something other than the crank to gouge up during the removal.
For install, pull into place with the parts store's tool or buy a pc of 3/4 fine thread all-thread rod and a nut or two. Use your original washer under the nut.
For install, pull into place with the parts store's tool or buy a pc of 3/4 fine thread all-thread rod and a nut or two. Use your original washer under the nut.
February 5th, 2015, 02:27 AM
#15
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Roger.
February 5th, 2015, 05:32 AM
#16
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My 72 350 had the same issue. The previous owner had apparently replaced the timing chain (receipts) and I assume the damper bolt was not properly torqued. I was on a weekend trip on the other side of Florida. My car looked like one of those low riders, bouncing up and down at stop lights from the loose balancer. When I removed it, the bolt was loose, and the keyway was about 1/2 wide and the balancer had a severe wobble. But the crank was undamaged so a new balancer fixed everything.
Based on other work the previous owner did, my guess is he tightened the bolt until the engine started to turn, then figured that was enough. They make an inexpensive tool to hold the flexplate gear so you can tighten the bolt to specs. I have also used vice grips to hold it and wedge against the housing, or a helper can put a large screw driver into the gear and hold against the housing. Just be sure to get it all the way into the gear so it doesn't slip and break the tooth.
Based on other work the previous owner did, my guess is he tightened the bolt until the engine started to turn, then figured that was enough. They make an inexpensive tool to hold the flexplate gear so you can tighten the bolt to specs. I have also used vice grips to hold it and wedge against the housing, or a helper can put a large screw driver into the gear and hold against the housing. Just be sure to get it all the way into the gear so it doesn't slip and break the tooth.
April 12th, 2015, 07:55 AM
#18
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Hi all, I am also planning on replacing my loose original timing chain on my 71 Supreme. Does anyone have any good links with pictures of the Balancer area and tools discussed in thread?
My skill set is limited.
I have already purchased most of the parts I think I’ll need, gears, chain, gasket set, water pump, and other MAW stuff I will replace in the process.
The Stuff in front of the timing cover has already been removed (radiator, water pump, etc.).
Pictures would be helpful.
Also, how do you get it back on? The Service manual talks about special tools and precise measuring tolerances.
My skill set is limited.
I have already purchased most of the parts I think I’ll need, gears, chain, gasket set, water pump, and other MAW stuff I will replace in the process.
The Stuff in front of the timing cover has already been removed (radiator, water pump, etc.).
Pictures would be helpful.
Also, how do you get it back on? The Service manual talks about special tools and precise measuring tolerances.
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