Compressed air from oil filler tube

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Old June 25th, 2008, 02:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Texascarnut
I really hate to say this, but with a constant light gray or bluish gray emission from the tailpipe and the results you got from the leak down, the engine needs a major rebuilding, which may require boring the cylinders. It is for certain the heads need a major rebuild and there is no reason to do that and put them back on when it appears you have one or more cylinders that are no longer true. If you haven't already you should do a compression test on all cylinders. I suspect the results of a compression test are not going to be good, unfortunately.
Actually, I did a compression test a few months ago - this is what I recorded:



Logically, A+B must equal C, but how could I get those kind of readings if the cylinders or rings were bad - wouldn't that show up as low compression? But yet, the results of the leakdown test were not good.

I tell ya, this is driving me batty!
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Old June 25th, 2008, 07:47 PM
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I think "good" compression is better than 135-140 psi.
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Old June 25th, 2008, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Texascarnut
........ There is always a certain amount of pressure in the crankcase created by piston movement ........
Nothing to do with the road draft tube that was being discussed?

Originally Posted by Texascarnut
........ If you don't believe that just crawl up under a car ........
I will let that statement speak for itself.

Norm
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Old June 25th, 2008, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 54olds
Out the exhaust. It smokes light but steady when idling, and of course increases considerably when raced. The smoking seems to be about the same as idling when you're driving.
Classic definition of worn oil rings.

An engine rebuild, by a competent machine shop, might be a good choice.

Norm
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Old June 25th, 2008, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 54olds
........ It idles fine when it's cold ........
While it's still on the choke?

Originally Posted by 54olds
........ at a stoplight, the idle will run rough and drop to the point where it will stall if you don't give it some gas ........
Idle mixture/speed adjustments and/or vacuum leak.

Norm
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Old June 25th, 2008, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by marcar1993
........ does effectively evacuate the crankcase at idle ........
How is it accomplished?

Originally Posted by marcar1993
........ Do olds road draft tubes have a small square of sheet metal on the front ........
No. As I said, it's function relies, solely, on the placement of the tube.

Originally Posted by marcar1993
........ I'd suppose it couldn't be much of a different principal.
No different than they used in the '30s, and earlier.

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Old June 25th, 2008, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Texascarnut
........ It is for certain the heads need a major rebuild ........
I have not seen anything to indicate a problem with the heads.

Norm
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Old June 26th, 2008, 01:50 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 54olds
Actually, I did a compression test ........
Yes.

Referred to, in post number3, for anyone who might have missed it.

Was the battery fully charged? Engine at normal operating temp? All plugs removed? And the throttle valves (plates) fully open?

Originally Posted by 54olds
........ I did my compression readings, they were all between 103 and 115 ........
103 is more than 80% of 115, and 103 is above the 100 PSI minimums, as shown in the '54 Service Manual.

If all of the above conditions were not met, these numbers would have been higher.

Originally Posted by 54olds
........ Logically, A+B must equal C ........
It does, if the right values are used. In this case, the needed values are in the basics.

Originally Posted by 54olds
........, but how could I get those kind of readings if the cylinders or rings were bad ........
They show the total pressure that is built up, during that compression stroke, in that cylinder, at that time. Leaking valves, rings, gaskets, etc, can contribute to a "less than ideal" combustion environment. Unless one can identify, and evaluate. each of the variables, the test can only show the "relative" condition of the entire cylinder.

One thing to think about, is the difference in maximum pressures, during compression vs power strokes. Most blowby occurs during the power stroke. Very little during compression.

Originally Posted by 54olds
........ But yet, the results of the leakdown test were not good ........
Leakdown and compression tests are the same, only different.

They both show cylinder leakage, but the leakdown can tell the source.

Originally Posted by 54olds
........ I tell ya, this is driving me batty!
Happens when one doesn't stay focused on the basics.

Norm
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Old June 26th, 2008, 02:08 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by marcar1993
I think "good" compression is better than 135-140 psi.
For a "high compression" '54 Olds, as it left the factory, that would be a good guess.

Norm
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Old June 26th, 2008, 06:41 AM
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Was the battery fully charged? Engine at normal operating temp? All plugs removed? And the throttle valves (plates) fully open?
Battery was fully charged and I let the engine run until it was nice and warmed up. The throttle plate was all the way open - the only thing I did not do is take all the spark plugs out before I did the test. Would that have made much of a difference in the readings?
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Old June 26th, 2008, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 88 coupe
Classic definition of worn oil rings.

An engine rebuild, by a competent machine shop, might be a good choice.

Norm
I'm leaning towards rings as well. Does the motor have to be taken out for a ring job?
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Old June 26th, 2008, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 54olds
........ Does the motor have to be taken out for a ring job?
No.

Back in the day, it was common to "recondition" an engine, without removing it.

Whether it would be practical, in your case, would depend on its condition and your budget.

Norm
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Old June 26th, 2008, 07:32 PM
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I plan on finishing my leakdown tests and do another compression check this weekend - I'll let you know if I find anything new then.
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Old June 26th, 2008, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 54olds
I plan on finishing my leakdown tests ........
If you are able to plug the two holes in the crankcase:

Apply air pressure to each cylinder, while listening at the carb inlet and the exhaust outlet, for the sound of escaping air.

Norm
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Old August 7th, 2008, 01:22 AM
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Found this post, while looking for, the above, vacuum hose information.

Originally Posted by Texascarnut
Originally Posted by 54olds
........ I did find this curiosity hooked up to the vacuum line and dangling between the firewall and the engine:

The item in the photo is most certainly an early PCV valve. How early I can't say ........
It's identical to the one on my '63 Plymouth and the one on my Dads '66 Dodge.

Originally Posted by Texascarnut
........ The first PCV valves were used on WW II tanks ........
Yes, and they looked nothing like the one pictured.

Norm
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Old September 4th, 2008, 07:15 PM
  #56  
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Your engine may or may not need a rebuild, but definitely get the stock crankcase breather vent operating normally before you proceed. My '54 Olds started burning oil prematurely, and it turned out to be simply a clogged breather filter. Don't rely on someone's attempted retrofit of a PCV valve to operate correctly, and mislead you. Also be aware that , if your engine has a fuel pump with a booster vacuum pump on top , a broken diaphram in the vacuum pump section can result in crankcase oil getting into the intake manifold, and in some designs even into the gasoline, giving the appearance of your engine burning oil for other reasons. Check out any lines into or out of the vacuum pump for evidence of oil.

Last edited by PetChemMan; September 4th, 2008 at 07:32 PM.
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