Compressed air from oil filler tube
#41
I really hate to say this, but with a constant light gray or bluish gray emission from the tailpipe and the results you got from the leak down, the engine needs a major rebuilding, which may require boring the cylinders. It is for certain the heads need a major rebuild and there is no reason to do that and put them back on when it appears you have one or more cylinders that are no longer true. If you haven't already you should do a compression test on all cylinders. I suspect the results of a compression test are not going to be good, unfortunately.
Logically, A+B must equal C, but how could I get those kind of readings if the cylinders or rings were bad - wouldn't that show up as low compression? But yet, the results of the leakdown test were not good.
I tell ya, this is driving me batty!
#43
Norm
#44
An engine rebuild, by a competent machine shop, might be a good choice.
Norm
#45
While it's still on the choke?
Idle mixture/speed adjustments and/or vacuum leak.
Norm
Norm
#46
How is it accomplished?
No. As I said, it's function relies, solely, on the placement of the tube.
No different than they used in the '30s, and earlier.
Norm
No different than they used in the '30s, and earlier.
Norm
#48
Yes.
Referred to, in post number3, for anyone who might have missed it.
Was the battery fully charged? Engine at normal operating temp? All plugs removed? And the throttle valves (plates) fully open?
103 is more than 80% of 115, and 103 is above the 100 PSI minimums, as shown in the '54 Service Manual.
If all of the above conditions were not met, these numbers would have been higher.
It does, if the right values are used. In this case, the needed values are in the basics.
They show the total pressure that is built up, during that compression stroke, in that cylinder, at that time. Leaking valves, rings, gaskets, etc, can contribute to a "less than ideal" combustion environment. Unless one can identify, and evaluate. each of the variables, the test can only show the "relative" condition of the entire cylinder.
One thing to think about, is the difference in maximum pressures, during compression vs power strokes. Most blowby occurs during the power stroke. Very little during compression.
Leakdown and compression tests are the same, only different.
They both show cylinder leakage, but the leakdown can tell the source.
Happens when one doesn't stay focused on the basics.
Norm
Referred to, in post number3, for anyone who might have missed it.
Was the battery fully charged? Engine at normal operating temp? All plugs removed? And the throttle valves (plates) fully open?
If all of the above conditions were not met, these numbers would have been higher.
It does, if the right values are used. In this case, the needed values are in the basics.
One thing to think about, is the difference in maximum pressures, during compression vs power strokes. Most blowby occurs during the power stroke. Very little during compression.
They both show cylinder leakage, but the leakdown can tell the source.
Happens when one doesn't stay focused on the basics.
Norm
#50
Was the battery fully charged? Engine at normal operating temp? All plugs removed? And the throttle valves (plates) fully open?
#51
#52
#54
#55
Found this post, while looking for, the above, vacuum hose information.
It's identical to the one on my '63 Plymouth and the one on my Dads '66 Dodge.
Yes, and they looked nothing like the one pictured.
Norm
Yes, and they looked nothing like the one pictured.
Norm
#56
Your engine may or may not need a rebuild, but definitely get the stock crankcase breather vent operating normally before you proceed. My '54 Olds started burning oil prematurely, and it turned out to be simply a clogged breather filter. Don't rely on someone's attempted retrofit of a PCV valve to operate correctly, and mislead you. Also be aware that , if your engine has a fuel pump with a booster vacuum pump on top , a broken diaphram in the vacuum pump section can result in crankcase oil getting into the intake manifold, and in some designs even into the gasoline, giving the appearance of your engine burning oil for other reasons. Check out any lines into or out of the vacuum pump for evidence of oil.
Last edited by PetChemMan; September 4th, 2008 at 07:32 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tinner
Small Blocks
5
May 9th, 2013 03:54 PM