pmathews

I'm looking to rebuild my 330. To my knowledge, it looks untouched (virgin), or at best, a 20-year old rebuild, I can't tell for sure without cracking it open, but looking at the level of carbon buildup and sludge and the matching 1967 parts, I don't think this thing has ever been touched. Can someone recommend a builder in the Nashville area?

The heads and block are both 1967 parts, so I'd like to say it's a 'numbers matching' car, but I don't have the protecto plate. Anyway, I'd like to keep the external parts (heads/block) matching and paint it Olds gold, but update the internals and include some reliability enhancements and possibly a mild cam. I'd like to see this thing run another 45 years It's really like a time capsule, it's amazing that it's still running reliably today. Just shows that Olds engines are keepers!

I pulled the valve covers and saw a lot of sludge, and I can see a lot of carbon buildup on the pistons. Valves are kind of sloppy in their valve guides, so I need guides. Plus, the rear main seal is a leaking a little, so it's time.

* the compression varies from 125-145
* oil pressure is surprisingly good at 40 psi cold, 35 psi hot
* power is way down, takes about 12 seconds to get to 60mph
* gas mileage is around 10 mpg

Thanks... Paul Mathews, Nashville

olds 307 and 403

The real Joe Mondello's shop is in Crossville, TN. CJ Smith is their head guy since Joe passed. I know he frequents the Real Olds Power board. Their number is 931-459-2760.

cutlassefi

What's your budget? CJ won't be cheap.

pmathews

Would like to spend $2k, but understand new pistons, etc.. will bring that closer $3k-4k. Crate motors go for $2k, or thereabouts, so willing to pay double to keep this engine, but no more.

I want to use the existing intake manifold, carb, accessories, etc... but I will invest in internal parts (where it makes sense). I want solid block work, align bore, decking, but don't need a blue-printed engine. I need bronze guides, perhaps hardened seats on the exhaust-side, but don't need any port work. I need a decent cam + lifers + valves + springs, but nothing high-dollar. The stock rockers are pedestal mount, which can be shimmed if there's enough decking/milling, but I'm willing to upgrade to stud mounts. Keeping the max rpm below 5,000.

If it's going to be too expensive, I will retire the engine, keep it in the corner of my garage as a piece of sculpture. If I ever sell the car, I would sell with the original, unmolested, engine

edzolz

You should be able to pick up a good 350 block for not too much $. Use your 330 crank because it is forged and high probability it is still standard size. 330 rods and 350 rods are basically the same so you can use them. I'd have them checked for size. The #4 heads on the 67 are very good heads so use them. Unless your machinist is knowledgeable about Olds heads, don't let him put in hardened seats anywhere, just a good valve job is all that is necessary. Many Olds heads have been ruined by putting the wrong seats (Chevy) in them. Find yourself a good Olds A4 aluminum intake, it is very good for street motors. A three wire HEI distributor and your good in ignition dept. and it fits the A4 intake. Good rebuilt Q-jet is more carb than you will ever need. Don't even think about headers, they are very expensive for 67 small block application. Have your system made into duals with a crossover downstream. Of course these are just my opinions.

Ed

pmathews

Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated.

So my 330 forged crank should measure within tolerances for standard bearings? Do they have a reputation of running without too much wear? I was under the impression that all cranks need turning, but I'm no expert.

olds 307 and 403

It will be hard to say, it may get way with a polish. The last 3 Olds I bought had very good cranks. Only one was cut .010 rods and standard mains.

jag1886

You aren't going to spend $3-4K on a rebuild unless you buy and do a bunch of extra machine work. You didn't say what you where trying accomplish with this rebuild (performance, cruiser or just get down the road without killing all the mosquitos for 3 blocks) you don't have to do a ton of machine work for a basic rebuild, the pistons are the only expensive parts you need, everything else is just regular old Olds parts.
I spent $4K on my motor but I did a bunch of extra decking, head work, porting, balancing, and a lot of extra parts that weren't worn out.

pmathews

Killing mosquitos (haha), yep that's me right now

This is my daily driver, so reliability is number 1, but my commute is short, so a little fun is okay. Keeping max rpm less than 5000 rpm for sure, with lots of torque in the low end. Currently running a TH400 with 3.08 highway gears.

Thanks for the feedback guys, please keep it coming

pmathews

I went with Chris Slee at Kiwi Classics, he's only 2 miles from my house, so I feel fortunate to have found someone nearby. Just pulled the engine today, the builder is cracking it open tonight. According to him, this engine has never been rebuilt, so it's a real 'time capsule'. 46 years and still running smooth, those Olds guys did a good job putting this one together. The goal of this build is '40 more years'. Let's hope they sell gasoline in 2053...