1968 Cutlass S 350 Exhaust Header Install
April 14th, 2011, 06:25 AM
#1
1968 Cutlass S 350 Exhaust Header Install
After much searching and research I think I have found a set of full length, 2 1/2 inch collector headers that will fit my 1968 Cutlass S. It seems like every manufacturer will tell you that their headers do not fit Supremes due to the engine offset
. It took forever to find a set that would fit my car. I finally decided on a set of Hooker Competition 3901 Headers. I did not buy from Jegs but here is the info on them.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/3901/10002/-1
Ha! Now before everyone gets all bent out of sorts, especially you Joe, I know every 1968-1972 A body Cutlass/442/H-O body can (in theory) use the same SBO headers for SBO engines and likewise for the BBO and BBO headers. I also know Cutlass S and Cutlass Supreme are not the same. I just like to get you fired up
.
However, I did in fact buy a set of Hookers 3901’s. Over two days I took the risk and decided to replace my rotted-out pair. My old headers were in the car when I bought it in 1998. In 1999 or 2000 I had the headers out and re-migged the primaries back onto the flange. They had burned/rusted out.
After reading all the horror stories regarding fitment and the need to “massage” headers in A Body Cutlii I was a little scared.
So, let’s do the passenger side first. There is less stuff to get in the way on this side. I still have both inner plastic fenders out of the car after the paint job last spring-summer-fall. That made this job much easier. Using axle stands, a bottle jack, trolley jack and some pieces of wood I jacked up the passenger side.
First thing off was the old Fram oil filter, Millie’s last one. Then the three bolts for the oil filter housing. No parts store locally (within 10 miles) had a new gasket for this. I could get one shipped to my local NAPA. $3 for the gasket and $15 for special order shipping. I made one out of a roll of gasket paper. I took my time with a new sharp blade. No problems.
Next, was to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the header. The nut and bolts and “clang” we are separated. Five bolts left. Using just a 3/8 ratchet and one wrench (spanner for you European members) the header was completely detached. With just some wiggling and a bit more jacking up on the front end I was able slid the old header out below the car.
I did not need to loosen the engine mounts, or move or disconnect the tranny lines.
Here's the new passenger side header in place.
Last fall I had just put on new motor mounts. The ˝” lift the new mounts gave the engine likely helped too.
The next day the driver’s side was waiting. I used the same setup as before. Just jacked up the side of the car, braced it with axle stands and went to work. First off were the three bolts to the collector and exhaust pipes.
Next was the starter. It came off and slide past the old header with plenty of clearance. The oil dipstick tube gave a little more resistance, but with an electrical tape wrapped pair of vice grip clamped below the neck I was able to bump and twist it out.
Again I was able to wiggle the old header out through the bottom and then installed the new without any clearance issues. I reinstalled the dipstick tube, starter and inner fender without any problems.
Now for the bad news. My old headers had 3 inch outlets and collectors. New ones 2 ˝”.
I am headed to the exhaust shop on Monday to weld in some new collectors on the exhaust pipe side and line everything back up.
Adam
. It took forever to find a set that would fit my car. I finally decided on a set of Hooker Competition 3901 Headers. I did not buy from Jegs but here is the info on them.http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/3901/10002/-1
Ha! Now before everyone gets all bent out of sorts, especially you Joe, I know every 1968-1972 A body Cutlass/442/H-O body can (in theory) use the same SBO headers for SBO engines and likewise for the BBO and BBO headers. I also know Cutlass S and Cutlass Supreme are not the same. I just like to get you fired up
. However, I did in fact buy a set of Hookers 3901’s. Over two days I took the risk and decided to replace my rotted-out pair. My old headers were in the car when I bought it in 1998. In 1999 or 2000 I had the headers out and re-migged the primaries back onto the flange. They had burned/rusted out.
After reading all the horror stories regarding fitment and the need to “massage” headers in A Body Cutlii I was a little scared.
So, let’s do the passenger side first. There is less stuff to get in the way on this side. I still have both inner plastic fenders out of the car after the paint job last spring-summer-fall. That made this job much easier. Using axle stands, a bottle jack, trolley jack and some pieces of wood I jacked up the passenger side.
First thing off was the old Fram oil filter, Millie’s last one. Then the three bolts for the oil filter housing. No parts store locally (within 10 miles) had a new gasket for this. I could get one shipped to my local NAPA. $3 for the gasket and $15 for special order shipping. I made one out of a roll of gasket paper. I took my time with a new sharp blade. No problems.
Next, was to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the header. The nut and bolts and “clang” we are separated. Five bolts left. Using just a 3/8 ratchet and one wrench (spanner for you European members) the header was completely detached. With just some wiggling and a bit more jacking up on the front end I was able slid the old header out below the car.
I did not need to loosen the engine mounts, or move or disconnect the tranny lines.
Here's the new passenger side header in place.
Last fall I had just put on new motor mounts. The ˝” lift the new mounts gave the engine likely helped too.
The next day the driver’s side was waiting. I used the same setup as before. Just jacked up the side of the car, braced it with axle stands and went to work. First off were the three bolts to the collector and exhaust pipes.
Next was the starter. It came off and slide past the old header with plenty of clearance. The oil dipstick tube gave a little more resistance, but with an electrical tape wrapped pair of vice grip clamped below the neck I was able to bump and twist it out.
Again I was able to wiggle the old header out through the bottom and then installed the new without any clearance issues. I reinstalled the dipstick tube, starter and inner fender without any problems.
Now for the bad news. My old headers had 3 inch outlets and collectors. New ones 2 ˝”.
I am headed to the exhaust shop on Monday to weld in some new collectors on the exhaust pipe side and line everything back up.
Adam
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