1955-56 Olds Fuel Pump block off plate
#1
1955-56 Olds Fuel Pump block off plate
Hi guys
I went out and fired up the olds yesterday. After cranking it for a long time, the fuel filter was still try. This is a good indication that the fuel pump probably needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
i have a few holley electric pumps laying around, so i was going to throw one in. I wanted to remove the mechanical pump and block it off, but i don't see any 1956 324 specific fuel pump block off plates out there. Do you guys know what part and where to remove my mechanical pump and block it off?
Thanks!
I went out and fired up the olds yesterday. After cranking it for a long time, the fuel filter was still try. This is a good indication that the fuel pump probably needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
i have a few holley electric pumps laying around, so i was going to throw one in. I wanted to remove the mechanical pump and block it off, but i don't see any 1956 324 specific fuel pump block off plates out there. Do you guys know what part and where to remove my mechanical pump and block it off?
Thanks!
#2
None that I'm aware of - be careful eliminating that pump - it also has a vacuum pump integral with it that runs your wipers - so unless you've converted to electric wipers you need that pump.
I have supplemented mine with an electric - left the OE pump in place.
I have supplemented mine with an electric - left the OE pump in place.
#3
Yeah, i was planning to go electric on the wipers.
You left the pump in place? did you just block off the fuel inlet and outlet then? or did you loop a hose around to both? I was worried about leaving the mechanical pump in place with it probably being bad.
You left the pump in place? did you just block off the fuel inlet and outlet then? or did you loop a hose around to both? I was worried about leaving the mechanical pump in place with it probably being bad.
#4
My '55 Was Requiring Much Pumping To Start It If It Sat For A Couple Of Days,So I Installed A "In Line" Pump Back Near The tank , And A Lighted Switch Where I Could Turn It On For Cold Starts. I Left The Original Pump Intact and Just Use The Electric For Starts When It Has Not Been ran For A Few Days, Then Cut It Off And It Runs Fine On The Original.if The Original Evers Quits Pumping My Electric Will Be My Backup! Larry
#5
My '55 Was Requiring Much Pumping To Start It If It Sat For A Couple Of Days,So I Installed A "In Line" Pump Back Near The tank , And A Lighted Switch Where I Could Turn It On For Cold Starts. I Left The Original Pump Intact and Just Use The Electric For Starts When It Has Not Been ran For A Few Days, Then Cut It Off And It Runs Fine On The Original.if The Original Evers Quits Pumping My Electric Will Be My Backup! Larry
You should consider having this wired to something live when the car is running so in the event of a crash, the pump isn't dumping fuel everywhere.
#7
When my fuel pump was bad on my mustang (after it sat for years) it was pumping gas into the oil pan instead of up to the carb. I don't want a similar situation here, which is why my thought was to remove it/disable it.
#8
If you want a blockoff plate you will probably have to fab one from a piece of flat steel. If the fuel line is disconnected I don't believe there would be anyway it could pump fuel into the oilpan. That was probably the result of a busted diaphragm and the gas leaked through the pump into the crankcase. My 54 has a blockoff plate and an electric pump back by the tank. I am going to install a relay that grounds with an oil pressure switch so if the engine dies, the pump will turn off. Right now it is tied to the ignition switch with a toggle switch in between the ignition and the pump. The wipers are vacuum and run to the carb but I will never be in the rain anyway (I hope).
#9
Another option
If "pretty" is important, and cost doesn't matter, here's another option:
http://www.dashman.net/category.html?id=12
These were available more back in the "old days", and might be found on the used market somewhere.
Functionally, the fabricated steel plate will work just as well.
While many things can disable the original pump, a leaking fuel hose (it will suck air) from the chassis to the pump or a distorted bottom casting (where the glass bowl is) will allow air to enter the system and weaken or stop the pump's pumping capacity.
http://www.dashman.net/category.html?id=12
These were available more back in the "old days", and might be found on the used market somewhere.
Functionally, the fabricated steel plate will work just as well.
While many things can disable the original pump, a leaking fuel hose (it will suck air) from the chassis to the pump or a distorted bottom casting (where the glass bowl is) will allow air to enter the system and weaken or stop the pump's pumping capacity.
Last edited by Ozzie; October 2nd, 2013 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Afterthought
#10
Hey! A block off plate! thanks for the info!
I do plan to be in the rain, so i thought i would convert to an electric wiper motor, but i honestly haven't given it much thought. I cannot imagine the vacuum wipers would really work well
I do plan to be in the rain, so i thought i would convert to an electric wiper motor, but i honestly haven't given it much thought. I cannot imagine the vacuum wipers would really work well
#12
#13
Just FYI...i confirmed that my fuel pump is pumping...nothing! i bottle fed the inlet from a gas can and cranked the starter. the fuel pump didn't pull anything in. the inlet line was dry. So for now i will bypass it and throw one of the holley electric ones in it. down the road i might rebuild this stock one.
#14
It's repairable
The original pump is fairly simple. There are two valves and a diaphragm and a filter. Usually either the diaphragm is cracked or petrified, one or both valves are leaking, the filter or strainer (there were at least two possibilities) is plugged, or the casting is distorted at the sealing surface allowing the pump to suck air. All can be cured if you have the new parts.
#15
I just bought this. Easier and ultimately cheaper than screwing with an electric pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-Oldsmob...d19fd6&vxp=mtr
i compared all of the pictures and this looks to be a pump that will work...hopefully...
I can't even rebuild mine for $60
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-Oldsmob...d19fd6&vxp=mtr
i compared all of the pictures and this looks to be a pump that will work...hopefully...
I can't even rebuild mine for $60
#16
Looks good
It looks like a good solution, as long as the rebuilder did his work properly. You got an air dome, which many rebuilders omit, and, it appears, a real FP-57 filter, which I have seen advertised for $60 by itself. Be sure the flex fuel line (chassis to pump) is in good condition, do a good installation, and you should be set for a long time.
#17
My vote would be to go with a rebuild before having to mess with a electric pump and switch system. Most electrics I have used sounded like woody wood pecker was under the car and after all you are only talking about two or three bolts and a gas line or two to mess with to remove the old pump. Not the best place to work if you don't have a lift but very doable from the top if your agel enough.
Before you give up on the pump you might see if gas is even getting to the pump. Sometimes the pickup tube filter gets completely gummed up and no gas will get through.....Just my thoughts.....Tedd
Before you give up on the pump you might see if gas is even getting to the pump. Sometimes the pickup tube filter gets completely gummed up and no gas will get through.....Just my thoughts.....Tedd
#19
It looks like a good solution, as long as the rebuilder did his work properly. You got an air dome, which many rebuilders omit, and, it appears, a real FP-57 filter, which I have seen advertised for $60 by itself. Be sure the flex fuel line (chassis to pump) is in good condition, do a good installation, and you should be set for a long time.
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