MDchanic

It should be possible to mill the intake surfaces of the heads, instead of the intake, thus preserving the intake as original in case you need it for another engine.

Unless you take quite a bit off, the end rails should be fine so long as you use RTV instead of the original rubber gaskets.

- Eric

Smitty275

67CF, nothing inappropriat, just hard to answer.

Olds, since the Olds is a 90° V and the heads are squared, whatever comes off the deck of the heads is usually the same as what needs to come off both sides of the intake. BUT ALWAYS TEST FIT BEFORE CUTTING! Since most intakes have oversized bolt holes and smaller ports than the head they are designed to be mated to you can often cheat the intake cutting a little to keep it higher.

Smitty275

Usually you cannot take much off the intake face of the heads. Reason being is you get into the valve cover rail and the bolt holes for the valve cover. You can take some but not very much.

Smitty275

olds 307 and 403

Thanks Smitty. Do you usually enlarge the ports to match the head on a 350? I guess waiting till heads are bolted to block is the only way see how it fits. Also would depend on how much the block is decked too. I couldn't even install a Peformer intake on a stock 76 350 short block with Ultraseal intake gaskets, had to use a turkey tray.
.

507OLDS

My F's are cut about .080 on the deck. I did not want to cut an intake manifold,and make it useless to other heads or engines,so I had the heads milled on the intake side as well. They did appear to have been milled before,when the decks were milled,but an uncut intake was just to high,and the bolts wouldn't go in,so I took .020 off each head,and that did it for me. If I remember correctly,that small,minor step,below the valve cover rail,is now gone. It is all one surface now.
All of this will also bring the end rails of the intake real close to the block,and in some extreme cases,might need some milling,to prevent bottoming-out.Now you would have to decide if you want to mill the intake or the end rails of the block.
It never hurts to keep mocking things up,over & over.

Smitty,
Do you have valves picked,to put in these heads? I know the springs will vary.

Smitty275

For the street and basic bracket heads yes. For the heads that will be running bigger intake valves I'll go with Manley custom as I always have along with an exhaust valve I have made by them that works great at boosting low lift exhaust flow with out compromising high lift flow.

oldsmoboogie

Im aware every combination is different but alot of companys offer a top end package that delievers up to x amount of power. I agree this combo would satisfy a broad group of people thats why im curious of price and power, torque numbers. I have used j&s on my big block and jim was very good to work with and i will use him again. But since Smitty is taking the time to post up the numbers i am inclined to use his services. Thanks for posting those links its nice to see who offers what services.

507OLDS

Staying with 2.07 intake,or upping to 2.11 or 2.19?

Smitty275

I offer all the services. Honestly been busy to the point that I've quit trying to do the website.

I feel the Stage approach is a shortcut to saying here's what's available, take it or leave it. It doesn't cost a dime more to have a conversation via email or the phone to make the package fit the customer. I've done it this way for a long time and it has worked out great for everyone.

Smitty275

In the street and basic bracket will stay with the 2.07. Otherwise it depends on what's being built. Camshaft type & lift, bore size, and whatnot dictates a lot of what is desireable or required.

captjim

This is a little off track so I'll keep it brief. The advantage to doing "combinations" from a machine shops point of view is doing things in "runs", Bore ten blocks, balance ten cranks, etc. A lot of time in a shop is spent on setting up machines. If you can set up the crank balancing machine once and do ten cranks, you save time and money and can offer a little better price. There simply isn't the demand or volume. I tried putting a stroker "kit" together; crank ground, rods, pistons, and ron beaings to give 9.5 to 1. EVERYBODY wanted something different, lees Cr, cheaper pistons, etc. For Oldsmobiles, there really is very little difference in cost to get a custom engine built.

oldsmoboogie

Thats a good point captjim i didnt think of it that way. When i do my sbo build i will be more concerned with power in a lower rpm range and longevity more than max power and cheap parts.