350 Nascar HP Motor Build
#1
350 Nascar HP Motor Build
In the process of Aquiring an HP NASCAR block and looking for Ideas on a serious street/strip build. Definatly looking to be Procahrged and my car is already plumbed for nitrous. Love to hear feedback!
#2
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
#3
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
As well but greg godon(who I'm getting the block from suggested I stay near 400 cu in. You would do aluminum vs forged steel for all around durability? I'm not sure on the heads. I was thinking Ebrocks but then I started looking at wise heads as battens are just too much money in my opinion. Intake wise I like the victor but clearance would be an issue as I want a w30 style hood as apposed to the run of the mill chevy cowl lookalike. I am seriously hoping to get 800-1200hp depending on boost levels. I understand this is a wide margine but with today's technology I think it's attainable but that's just my .02.
#4
I was thinking 425 crank or moldex myself
As well but greg godon(who I'm getting the block from suggested I stay near 400 cu in. You would do aluminum vs forged steel for all around durability? I'm not sure on the heads. I was thinking Ebrocks but then I started looking at wise heads as battens are just too much money in my opinion. Intake wise I like the victor but clearance would be an issue as I want a w30 style hood as apposed to the run of the mill chevy cowl lookalike. I am seriously hoping to get 800-1200hp depending on boost levels. I understand this is a wide margine but with today's technology I think it's attainable but that's just my .02.
As well but greg godon(who I'm getting the block from suggested I stay near 400 cu in. You would do aluminum vs forged steel for all around durability? I'm not sure on the heads. I was thinking Ebrocks but then I started looking at wise heads as battens are just too much money in my opinion. Intake wise I like the victor but clearance would be an issue as I want a w30 style hood as apposed to the run of the mill chevy cowl lookalike. I am seriously hoping to get 800-1200hp depending on boost levels. I understand this is a wide margine but with today's technology I think it's attainable but that's just my .02.
Why dont you let Greg build your motor. He was building his own turbo car. Ask him how that is working out for him.
#6
Exactly.
Try this on for size;
A DX or Nascar block, Billet caps
H beam rods (Not Scat or Eagles, I'm talking Callies, Oliver, Lunati etc.)
CP, Mahle or similar piston
Victor intake with an elbow (should fit under the hood)
Obviously then EFI
A lot of these parts are available off the shelf, that'll keep costs down. You can put the rest of the money in the EFI and other parts.
Jmo.
Last edited by cutlassefi; January 19th, 2014 at 06:26 PM.
#8
max stroke
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
Why is the max stroke of a Nascar block 4.100"?
#12
Yes, you can go bigger than 451. I've done many 454 versions and know of a few that are 460 or 461.
But there is really no need to max bore on a blower motor. If it doesn't make enough power change pulleys and crank up the boost a pound or two.
I wouldn't hesitate to use aluminum rods in a build for street/strip. Unless you plan on firing it up when its below freezing. Otherwise make sure the engine is warmed up before you beat on it and they'll be fine. With a blower on it your not going to be turning high rpm, which is whats hard on aluminum rods. Just cruising around with them is not detrimental to them. The Bill Miller Engineering site has information on it about using aluminum rods on the street.
But there is really no need to max bore on a blower motor. If it doesn't make enough power change pulleys and crank up the boost a pound or two.
I wouldn't hesitate to use aluminum rods in a build for street/strip. Unless you plan on firing it up when its below freezing. Otherwise make sure the engine is warmed up before you beat on it and they'll be fine. With a blower on it your not going to be turning high rpm, which is whats hard on aluminum rods. Just cruising around with them is not detrimental to them. The Bill Miller Engineering site has information on it about using aluminum rods on the street.
Last edited by Smitty275; January 20th, 2014 at 03:19 AM.
#13
Yeah I have Bill Travatos book and he mentioned aluminum rods as well. I guess today aluminum rods are more durable then 10-15 years ago for street use? What about the heads though? Am I wrong at looking at Wise heads or should I just get some Ebrock blanks and have Bill do his thing?
#14
I'd just get some bare Edelbrocks and have them ported. It's not nearly as critical on a blown application like Smitty said. If you want more power just turn up the boost.
#16
Can't decide
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
#18
Wow dug up my old thread here! I have acquired 2 sets of batten heads since I started this thread last year! I plan on doing a 425-434 cu inch build with F2 procharger. Most likely it will be carbed unless efi is better suited for my situation!
#19
Keep us posted on progress!
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