Creativeindy

These heads a decent replacement over worn C heads that need rebuilt?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60519/

Wanna make sure I'm not going backwards and hindering myself instead of improving performance.

gregvm

All depends on what you have/want.....

E-brocks are(almost) a direct bolt on. You'll need different head bolts(arp makes them), adjustable rocker arms, probably different length pushrods. They have no heat riser passage(good), but there is an issue if you are running a mechanical fuel pump. MAY hit the pass side head. Not an issue if your running electric pump. Also they're limited to .575 lift with the stock springs, so check your camshaft specs.

For what it will cost to properly redo a set of c's, you're better off with the e-brocks IMO

DeltaPace77

Main advantage of aluminum heads, is weight savings over the front axle. Also, better heat transfer, so can usually run about 1/2 point higher compression, over cast iron. Modern CNC machined parts, usually yields better tolerances, such as more consistant combustion chamber volume. Older cast chambers, could vary all over the place here. My car, has worked over "C" heads, with CC'd/polished chambers, so not in any hurry to change things here.

Creativeindy

Gotcha. The main reasons I bought these was for in case the heads the PO bolted on had underlying issues.

My goal is that if Ic ant get my current engine to run right in the car after all i've done so far. Im going to grab my original block from Eric and put these heads and more on it. Supposedly the owner before Eric said he had turned timing way up trying to get power and ended up damaging something. So my thoughts are if I can get my current engine to run for a while I plan to get the original and build it as follows.

Have the block worked over checked for anything wrong. Have crank worked and new pistons and bearings installed. I'm then going to throw these heads on there, and all the current stuff on current engine minus the 650 edelbrock. I bought a 750 Holly Street Avenger for it to feed a tad more fuel. I'll also not swap the cam over I will get Cutlassefi to grind me one. Should have done this to begin with but I didn't know he did it until AFTER I started messing with cam. When it's all done I should have a nicely built medium power engine. I'm not aiming for drag racing but I would love to be able to smoke some guys on a Sat night while cruising. Or at least pull into the hang out with a bad *** thumping cam and jaws drop. Not to many 442's out and about on a sat night around here. Mostly just Chevells, Camaros and Mopar ****.

These heads I posted about at 77cc and have all the basic goodies Edelbrock does to them. I thought about getting a pair of the pro comps that Mondellos son works over as there similar in price but seem to offer more done to them by him personally. Just not to up to speed on if Edelbrocks are more durable and problem free than pro comps.

I just dont want to bolt some heads on and have issue after issue. I want to do the work walk away for a few thousand miles without worrying about break down or part failure.

ah64pilot

You won't have any problems with the Edelbrocks, it's the Pro Comps that are as of yet unproven. Also, Edelbrock advertises a max lift of .575" but have them checked by your machinist...I believe when checked mine showed coil bind didn't occur until .680" so you really can get away with more than .575".

Compression ratio is gonna be one of your biggest assets with the aluminum heads, get 10 - 10.5 if you can...true, not estimated or advertised. Example, if you get TRW forged "10.25:1" pistons you'll end up with 9.5:1 CR unless you deck the block and such.

Adjustable rocker arms: Bite the bullet, get HS 5016's and be done with them.

Intake ports: Are larger than stock, plan on port matching the intake manifold to them...it's a MAW before it all goes together and it's relatively cheap.

Oldmofogo

On Edelbrock heads I have seen coil bind all over the board, some at .590 some at .685, they are not junk but they are very inconsistant, (parts made by the lowest bidder) Pro comp is a decent casting but thats it, use the casting and replace everything else. Both need work to make real HP but easier to work than cast iron heads

ah64pilot

What is real horsepower? How much is real?

cutlassefi

You can't go wrong with the Edelbrocks. But even if you buy them assembled, take them apart to make sure they're clean etc.

Steve, if you have coil bind at .680 then yes they're good to about .580 lift or so. You normally want .080-.100 or so above coil bind.

I should be posting the results of my cylinder head flow test in a week or so. An out of the box bare Procomp vs the same Edelbrock. Then the Edelbrock with a little bowl blending and good valve job.

For the record, the bare Procomps came ready to go, guides reamed and valve job done. The Edelbrocks didn't. The guides had to be reamed and consequently a valve job done.

Hope this helps.

VORTECPRO

What does a Edelbrock head flow out of the box?

cutlassefi

I know what the catalog says but as my post says we don't know yet. I'll let you know when I get the info back.

VORTECPRO

Thanks, I just looked at the catalog, it left me confused also. If you could do a test with the intake in place, that would be good information.