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Old July 11th, 2012, 10:31 AM   #1
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Muncie M21

Hey guys looking for a Muncie M21 if anyone has got one please let me know. Thanks, Marty
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Old July 11th, 2012, 12:53 PM   #2
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where are you located? it may help to find one closest to you. i have one that is completely disassembled that i may sell but i am not sure yet.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 01:26 PM   #3
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Are you looking for just any M21,or one that would be correct to your car? They changed casting numbers,and a few other things throughout the years,but the fit & function are pretty much the same.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 02:37 PM   #4
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I'm located in central Illinois.. And yes I'm looking for one that with bolt up to my car. 1972 cutlass rocket 350
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Old July 11th, 2012, 03:12 PM   #5
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Your car is a stick shift car, right? If you're converting from an auto you'll need to drill your crank for a pilot bearing.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 04:35 PM   #6
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i know it is not an M-21 but i have an M-20 that was removed from a 72 cutlass with linkage and factory hurst shifter. it has a lever for a non console car. i am missing one rod for the reverse lock out. i have not opened the side cover up to look inside yet. i even have 4 speed cranks, flywheels, bellhousings, pedals... i am in Brazil IN so maybe not to far to drive?
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Old July 11th, 2012, 05:48 PM   #7
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yes i will be converting from and auto and i am aware of drilling the crank for a pilot bearing..
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Old July 12th, 2012, 04:35 AM   #8
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All of the 72's came with the M20,which also have the 26-spline input,and the larger 32-spline output.Sounds like Eric has the perfect match.
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Old July 12th, 2012, 10:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecar442 View Post
Your car is a stick shift car, right? If you're converting from an auto you'll need to drill your crank for a pilot bearing.
Years ago I got stuck helping a friend that had an olds auto engine in a Chevelle stick. The guy that did the swap didn't used a pilot bushing. What I did was turn down a pilot bushing on a lathe to fit the auto crank.

Just a thought.
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Old July 12th, 2012, 11:37 AM   #10
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It's not that simple.The input shaft of the manual transmission needs a hole deeper than the depth of the existing automatic hole,so you need to make a relief hole for the end of the input shaft to pass into.The adapter bushing also needs to be inset from the edge of crank.If it is flush with the end of the crank,it will not work,or be in a bind.The splined part of the input shaft actually starts to enter the crank.I think this is also why you see some manual transmission with the ears broke off.People think they can just keep tighetening the bolts to get the transmission to seat into the bellhousing.Nope.There is a reason why it is not going in,so don't force it.A home-made adpater bushing can be made,for those of you that have an engine that is assembled.It's only going to be about 3/8" long/deep,and you will need to drill a relief hole for a void,for the tip of the input shaft,but it will work.
Machining the crank would be the best option though.
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