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Old 12-31-2007, 02:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
abody
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Talking 70 cutlass vacuum diagram

i have a 70 cutlass 350-4barrel all stock,on the intake manifold p/s there is a rod that sticks out where i assume 3 vacuum lines go, i bought the car from the original owner it runs good but i don't know where thtw vacuum lines go, its an a/c car, any help on a digram would be great, thanks
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
kevinkpk
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i have a 70 cutlass 350-4barrel all stock,on the intake manifold p/s there is a rod that sticks out where i assume 3 vacuum lines go, i bought the car from the original owner it runs good but i don't know where thtw vacuum lines go, its an a/c car, any help on a digram would be great, thanks
Not sure exactly what you are saying, but it could be a thermostatic vacuum switch for the distributer vacuum adavance, does it have emission control on it?
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Shoot us a picture.
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Old 12-31-2007, 04:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
abody
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70 vacuum reply

thanks in advance,i didn't think a 1970 had any emissoin parts on them, the original owner kept it inspected till this month, just registered it last week, i don't know why his mechanic would leave 3 vacuum lines unplugged.it runs rough at idle, but smooths out when you give it gas.
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Old 12-31-2007, 05:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
kevinkpk
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thanks in advance,i didn't think a 1970 had any emissoin parts on them, the original owner kept it inspected till this month, just registered it last week, i don't know why his mechanic would leave 3 vacuum lines unplugged.it runs rough at idle, but smooths out when you give it gas.
If the car was built or sold in California, it would have California emmissions on it, such as they were, and a thermostatic vacuum control would have come with it for the vaccum advance on the distributor.

Best thing at this point is to plug off the outlets for the three vacuum lines, and give that a try.
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Old 12-31-2007, 05:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
abody
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the car was bought in philadelphia owned by my uncles friend since new, but i will try plugging them up, thanks, it is a 1 owner with 53000 original miles
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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........ don't know why his mechanic would leave 3 vacuum lines unplugged ........
There is no vacuum to plug.

The vacuum supply to the valve was probably moved to the advance canister, the other two hoses removed, and the manifold plugged. If so, the car would run the same as it did before. If the vacuum source was changed from ported, to manifold, it would not run as well.

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........ but i don't know where the vacuum lines go ........
The correct configuration should be:
  • Top: To advance canister.
  • Center: From carb.
  • Bottom: From intake manifold

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........ but smooths out when you give it gas.
Give it a tuneup, per factory specs, starting with a liberal (can I say that, here) application of carb cleaner (lacquer thinner) down the carb.

Norm
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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........ Best thing at this point is to plug off the outlets for the three vacuum lines, and give that a try.
There is no vacuum to plug.

Norm
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Old 01-01-2008, 01:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You can always spray the hell out of it with starting fluid. If the idle changes then you know you have a vacuum leak.

Or if you smoke you can take a BIG OL' HIT... er I mean... DRAG and then blow the smoke into one of the vacuum lines with the engine off and see where the smoke pours out of your intake / carburetor. (NOTE: this might not work too well since most people couldn't inhale enough smoke to make it noticable when you blow it into an engine). If you are really intent on using the smoke idea then there is a machine called a Vac U Tec that does that with a little electric heating element that burns STUFF to make smoke. They are fun to use.
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
abody
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thanks alot the car runs smooth, when you give it gas, i changed the plugs,cap,rotor,oil,and filter, put some lead additive in it and super, now it doesn't ping anymore, it doesn't blow any smoke when its staretd,the original owner only put 60 miles on it since last dec,the choke doesn't work theres a place in phila, that will rebuild the original carb, and tune it for $250,(take it off and put it on) he's been around forever, i''m gonna try taking to him next week, i just sold my 88 cutlass,to get this 70, needs some work but the floors,frame and trunk are solid, and the a/c works, keep you advised thanks for your advise.
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You can always spray the hell out of it with starting fluid ........
Waste of time, and starting fluid.

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Old 01-01-2008, 06:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Waste of time, and starting fluid.
Yeah, I prefer the OTHER method too.
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