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Hey, gang. It's been a while since I dropped in, so I thought I'd give a quick update. The '63 Cutlass and I are getting along great. I daily drive it (unless its just too hot... not an a/c car...) to the tune of about 250 miles a week and I took it on a 500-mile round trip from central Pennsylvania to meet my wife and kids in Connecticut where they were visiting family. So now that I've gotten to know the car a little better, I can give some thoughts and ask some questions.
The car is comfortable and enjoyable to drive. It's been a blast for the most part, and the kids love it. I do plan on hopping up the car a bit (more on that plan soon...) but I've really been pleasantly surprised at how nice this car is all stock. I'm always tinkering with something, adjusting this, tweaking that... and I feel like I have a pretty good sense of this car's personality. Here's a couple impressions along with some questions the forum might be able to help me with.
The Roto Hydramatic that I was so terrified of has turned out to essentially be a non-issue. It certainly has its quirks, but I'm learning to drive it. This tranny, in my car at least, likes to be romped on a little. The long, queasy 1-2 shift is really only a bother in slow, town driving. As long as I can get the RPMs up right from the line, the shift is a bit slow, but smooth. And with higher initial RPMs, the drop when going into second isn't so pronounced. But slow, lazy acceleration makes for a wonky 1-2 shift that comes in early, seems like it wants to bog the car, and I swear I can feel the fluid coupling fill with fluid! So I tend to jump on it a bit, and all is well.
The shift points also seem a bit early. To compensate, I've found 'Super'. I start in 'S' most times when starting from a stop. Higher RPMs from stopped gets us through the 1-2 shift and 2nd is good for most in-town driving and all the way to about 55mph on the highway. Then just slip into Drive and the 2-3 shift is almost imperceptible. This car would be fun with a Hurst Dual-Gate or other auto shifter on the floor where you can control the shift point.
Couple quick Roto 5 questions:
What are ya all using for ATF? My research shows Dexron III was GMs backwards compatible fluid, so that's what I've topped off with. (Apparently my driving style exacerbates the leaky RH5's 'external oiling' feature...) But I'd love to know what others are using.
Under what circumstances should I be able to kick down into passing gear? Seems like if I'm lazy and I get into 3rd by 35mph or so, if I then floor it it will kick down into second. But not always. And not if I'm rolling in 3rd over, say, 40mph. Just curious if I need to look at the TV rod adjustment.
Anyway... I have more to share and ask. Brakes, PCV, Carb and engine mods are all on the bubble. Stay tuned!
Thanks, fellas. It’s been great. Really enjoyable to drive and tinker with. No A/C hasn’t been an issue but for a handful of days. Great car to daily, but plenty of points for improvement as time and money allow.
PCV… the Buick 215 in the car is set up with a breather in the driver side valve cover and a leaky grommet-breather thing-hose to the air cleaner on the passenger side. Hose to the air cleaner enters outside of the filter element. There’s a LOT of crankcase vapor escaping the system and keeping the engine bay a mess. I’d like to run a PCV (I run a fancy Wagner on the suburban with great results…) and would be interested in how everyone has theirs set up. Right now I plan to keep the breather on the driver side and find the right grommet to install a PCV valve on the passenger side with a hose running to the 4GC. I think there’s a vac fitting on the back of the carb, otherwise I can tee into the line going to the distributor advance can.
Good read on your original thread. I really dig your car. Never pull up to another one I bet. Those 63 Cadillac Cutlasses are super rare...
Funny. I had three more ‘Cadillac’ comments on the trip to Connecticut and back. Two were from youths, but one was from a guy old enough to remember Oldsmobile. Got me thinking of the kids that don’t have a relationship with Olds, Pontiac, Plymouth, Mercury, AMC…
Sounds like the TV could use adjusted a little more. It will increase your shift point RPM and make the second gear shift higher without holding it down with the shifter.
Sounds like the TV could use adjusted a little more. It will increase your shift point RPM and make the second gear shift higher without holding it down with the shifter.
Eric! First, the Jetfire is spectacular. Congrats on pushing through and getting “finished”. Enjoy driving it. You earned it.
I think need a shop manual and to search out the adjustment tool before fiddling with anything on the RH5. Unless it’s as simple as ‘shorten the rod at the carb linkage to raise shift point RPM’… then I may give it a go.
I also need to get the car on a lift so I can find all the leaks and get seals, gaskets, etc. ordered. If I’m gonna try to adjust anything on the transmission, may as well have everything on hand and get it sealed up and fluid changed too.
All that said, the Roto really isn’t that objectionable right now. Other than the annoying leaks, which I solve by topping off the fluid every now and then. Life with an old car, eh?
Brakes. Overall, the drums and single master have given satisfactory service. However, two scenarios make things a little sketchy, and I don’t have much experience with brakes.
First… things can get a little hairy in the rain. If I lose focus on a wet road, it doesn’t take much over-braking to lock up and skid. There’s a fine line between just slowing down and skidding.
Second… when the ambient temps are HOT as they’ve been here recently, it seems like I get a pressure build up in the brake hydraulics. Peddle travel shortens up and goes from nothing to full 4-wheel lockup with almost no effort. In the worst situations, the brakes don’t fully release and drag while driving. I need to pull back on the peddle with my toe to get the drums disengaged, sometimes without success. Again, I know I need a shop manual, but is this something as simple as too much fluid in the system or a stuck valve?
I would suspect that the master cylinder needs rebuilt or the pivot at the top of the brake pedal needs greased. It should return easily all the way. if it has not been done I suspect the wheel cylinders need rebuilt as well with a good fluid flush.
You mentioned ATF in the first post. My transmission guy said he would prefer that I use type F fluid in the transmission in my wife's Jetfire
I would suspect that the master cylinder needs rebuilt or the pivot at the top of the brake pedal needs greased. It should return easily all the way. if it has not been done I suspect the wheel cylinders need rebuilt as well with a good fluid flush.
You mentioned ATF in the first post. My transmission guy said he would prefer that I use type F fluid in the transmission in my wife's Jetfire
Type F... interesting. That seems to be relatively available compared to the Type A original spec... did your guy mention reasoning? Just curious, since it sounds like you really have a guy that understands the Rotos.
The brakes are definitely heat related. This morning is cool, and brakes worked and felt perfect on the way to work. Good modulation and full pedal return - no dragging. Last night it was awful hot and the pedal started to stiffen up after a bit of driving. Stopped at a store for a soda pop, shut off the car. The engine compartment heat soaked and when I got back in and went to back out, the pedal was stiff as a plank and the brakes were dragging. I gotta see what's happening with the brake line routing and exhaust. Then check the master, wheel cylinders and give it a flush.
When I mention pulling back on the brake pedal with my toe, I'm basically pulling back beyond the stop to try to get stroke in the rod to allow the brakes to release. The pedal is returning fully to its rest position.
The rain scenario where I lock up is most likely related to the above where I have little travel between off and locked up. Plus the Cooper tires of unknown history... probably time to consider a good tire. Maybe with fancy white lines...
To your issue of brakes dragging, I had a similar issue on my 66 F85 on a hot day of driving. Turned out the rubber brake hoses would swell and not release the brakes. Replaced and all the issues went away.
A few updates coming… but first a quick question. Where are the timing marks? I got the light out while I was doing some other things under the hood because I was curious. Try as I might, I couldn’t see a pointer on the front cover or marks on the whirly bit. What am I missing here?
Here is a picture I already had on the computer. The focus was not the timing marks but I circled them in red. The balancer has a notch in it. The grid is molded into the timing cover. I find it easier to use the 0 mark and a dial timing light.
Geez, thanks Eric! Yup. There it is. Really tough to see the tab on my car… can’t even really see the -0. Time for the yellow paint stick. Then we can do some investigation on timing.
PCV - cleaned the stock Olds PCV (which doesn’t sit well in the Buick valve cover because of the angled neck…) and hooked it up. It had been disconnected from the carb (but still run to the air cleaner) and there was crankcase vapors keeping an oily mist over everything under the hood. Instant improvement. All those minor little leaks vanished and I’m down to a single little dripper at the rear main seal. Progress!
Brakes - discovered that the brake light switch was screwed in far enough that the peddle wasn’t returning all the way. Seems like the master was preloading and not letting things come back. Slight improvement, now I’ll check the master-to-peddle push rod adjustment. If that doesn’t solve it completely, into the wheel cylinders and hoses we go!
I'm going to keep the detailed 'performance' stuff over on the "215 Warm Up" thread here. But... I now have a cam and heads. And a lead on a 2-barrel Olds 215. So...
Non-adjustable push rod from pedal to master on this car. Moved the pedal stop all the way back... brakes are perfect now.
What shocks are everyone running? Anyone feel the need to replace springs?
Going to rebuild the carb this weekend. With the lack of a tag, I'm hoping I got the right kit. The Buick and Olds 215s ran different 4GCs and since I have a rebuild with Buick heads, it's unclear which carb I'm set up with...
Non-adjustable push rod from pedal to master on this car. Moved the pedal stop all the way back... brakes are perfect now.
What shocks are everyone running? Anyone feel the need to replace springs?
Going to rebuild the carb this weekend. With the lack of a tag, I'm hoping I got the right kit. The Buick and Olds 215s ran different 4GCs and since I have a rebuild with Buick heads, it's unclear which carb I'm set up with...
As long as the ride height is good the springs are good. I am running vintage NOS GM "Pleasurizers" but they are very hard to find. I have never used the set that Fusick sells but I hear everyone is happy with them that get them.
Ohhhh… I want Pleasurizers. Har! NAPA lists shocks for a ‘63 under their house brand, but I’m suspicious of fitment. I’ve been down that road before…
Fusicks was my assumed supplier. Thanks for the feedback on their rep.
Ride height seems right judging by period advertising pics. A bit soft ride though. Buick-soft. Need to take a look at the sway bar links and bushing. I’d like to find a heavier front eventually and have pondered the rear one available through Speedway. I’m not sure about the engineering on that one…
Congrats on the response the Jetfire has received!
Ohhhh… I want Pleasurizers. Har! NAPA lists shocks for a ‘63 under their house brand, but I’m suspicious of fitment. I’ve been down that road before…
Fusicks was my assumed supplier. Thanks for the feedback on their rep.
Ride height seems right judging by period advertising pics. A bit soft ride though. Buick-soft. Need to take a look at the sway bar links and bushing. I’d like to find a heavier front eventually and have pondered the rear one available through Speedway. I’m not sure about the engineering on that one…
Congrats on the response the Jetfire has received!
My only real experience with springs are with off road racing 4 wheelers. In that world, springs are only to hold the proper ride height (with a small exception) and the shocks do all the rest. If your car is soft I would suspect worn or wrong shocks.
I would not trust the NAPA fitment either for shocks on these cars.
Ohhhh… I want Pleasurizers. Har! NAPA lists shocks for a ‘63 under their house brand, but I’m suspicious of fitment. I’ve been down that road before…
Fusicks was my assumed supplier. Thanks for the feedback on their rep.
Ride height seems right judging by period advertising pics. A bit soft ride though. Buick-soft. Need to take a look at the sway bar links and bushing. I’d like to find a heavier front eventually and have pondered the rear one available through Speedway. I’m not sure about the engineering on that one…
Congrats on the response the Jetfire has received!
My only real experience with springs are with off road racing 4 wheelers. In that world, springs are only to hold the proper ride height (with a small exception) and the shocks do all the rest. If your car is soft I would suspect worn or wrong shocks.
I would not trust the NAPA fitment either for shocks on these cars.
This car has given me my first experience in stumping multiple parts stores on a seemingly simple purchase... an air filter. Local NAPA, Advance and AutoZone all cannot find a filter for this car. Even my go-to place in a neighboring county that is usually good at finding my weird requests can't find it. And... they can't search in the 'system' by size to match what I have. Good grief... what's the world coming to? Ha.
My only real experience with springs are with off road racing 4 wheelers. In that world, springs are only to hold the proper ride height (with a small exception) and the shocks do all the rest. If your car is soft I would suspect worn or wrong shocks.
I would not trust the NAPA fitment either for shocks on these cars.
Thanks, man. I'll order up a set from Fusick's for one of this winter's wrenching projects. Along with any other suspension stuff we need.
This car has given me my first experience in stumping multiple parts stores on a seemingly simple purchase... an air filter. Local NAPA, Advance and AutoZone all cannot find a filter for this car. Even my go-to place in a neighboring county that is usually good at finding my weird requests can't find it. And... they can't search in the 'system' by size to match what I have. Good grief... what's the world coming to? Ha.
July 9th, 2021, 02:27 PM
