Engine Steam Clean
#1
Engine Steam Clean
Hi Olds Friends!
I have a '72 Cutlass S with a 350 (395558) with quite a few years of grease, grime and yuck under the hood. I'm not planning on taking the engine out anytime soon, but I am looking to clean it, at least the outside. A lot of the gunk is in kind of hard to reach places and on the bottom of the engine. Someone told me about steam cleaning...but I wasn't sure if it was OK on older engines?
I was wondering if anyone has ever had their engine steam cleaned. What were the results?
What are the alternatives?
Thanks!
Russ
I have a '72 Cutlass S with a 350 (395558) with quite a few years of grease, grime and yuck under the hood. I'm not planning on taking the engine out anytime soon, but I am looking to clean it, at least the outside. A lot of the gunk is in kind of hard to reach places and on the bottom of the engine. Someone told me about steam cleaning...but I wasn't sure if it was OK on older engines?
I was wondering if anyone has ever had their engine steam cleaned. What were the results?
What are the alternatives?
Thanks!
Russ
#2
I usually use an engine de-greaser like Gunk, let it soak, and then start blasting away with a pressure washer. I suppose a steam cleaner would work well too. If a company is doing it, check about customer satisfaction and guarantees. The reason I say this is that they could make mistakes like blast off decals on the radiator upper support, oil fill tube or air cleaner. They may not plug openings like the oil fill, pcv opeinings on the valve convers, carburetor etc and you will end up with water in your oil or manifold . And they may not protect your distributor well and the engine won't start or start well after it is completed. I am always real careful when I clean my engines and check for all these things so just watch out for that.
#3
Thanks for the reply, Oldsguy!
The biggest problem with doing it myself in fashion you mentioned is that a lot of engine degreasers are highly flammable. I've never really had a way of rinsing a completely COLD engine thoroughly, as I live 5-10 minutes from the nearest car wash and don't have hose capabilities at home. Well, short of waiting around for a couple hours in the washing bay for my engine to cool. I'm a little paranoid, as I just had a 15 passenger dodge RAM van burst into flames for no apparent reason while driving (thank god no one was hurt and we hadn't loaded our musical equipment into the van yet).
With that said, you make a strong point about allowing a complete stranger at a detailing place (possibly unfamiliar with older engines) to have his/her way with my engine. hehe. I took a look at the Gunk website. It looks like Gunk is not super-flammable, and friendly to hoses, etc...I'd probably be OK letting the engine cool for just a little bit, and then using it.
What should I do to protect the engine during the wash? Do you use trash bags and tape to cover the carb and distributor? Does anyone have any good tricks? Is there anything to be careful of in terms of temperature differences between the block and water? I've heard rumors of being able to crack a block by washing it. I could have been misinformed.
Thanks again, olds buddies.
Rock.
-Russ
PS - I have attached a couple pictures of the aftermath of the "Fire of '07" for your viewing pleasure....sorry for the graininess, but it happened at night.
The biggest problem with doing it myself in fashion you mentioned is that a lot of engine degreasers are highly flammable. I've never really had a way of rinsing a completely COLD engine thoroughly, as I live 5-10 minutes from the nearest car wash and don't have hose capabilities at home. Well, short of waiting around for a couple hours in the washing bay for my engine to cool. I'm a little paranoid, as I just had a 15 passenger dodge RAM van burst into flames for no apparent reason while driving (thank god no one was hurt and we hadn't loaded our musical equipment into the van yet).
With that said, you make a strong point about allowing a complete stranger at a detailing place (possibly unfamiliar with older engines) to have his/her way with my engine. hehe. I took a look at the Gunk website. It looks like Gunk is not super-flammable, and friendly to hoses, etc...I'd probably be OK letting the engine cool for just a little bit, and then using it.
What should I do to protect the engine during the wash? Do you use trash bags and tape to cover the carb and distributor? Does anyone have any good tricks? Is there anything to be careful of in terms of temperature differences between the block and water? I've heard rumors of being able to crack a block by washing it. I could have been misinformed.
Thanks again, olds buddies.
Rock.
-Russ
PS - I have attached a couple pictures of the aftermath of the "Fire of '07" for your viewing pleasure....sorry for the graininess, but it happened at night.
#4
Rent a pressure washer and do it at home. Gunk it(several times). Let it sit. blast it off.This is the simple way.You are in charge of where you aim the washer.Don't blast away at the rubber parts and take the spark plug wires off (remember where they go.) Cover the distributor with a couple of plastic baggies and tape around them to hold them on.Disconnect the battery. A good trick for keeping water out of the carb is to find one of those plastic bowl things like butter comes in (clean) . Punch a hole in the center so it will slide over the air cleaner bolt and screw on the nut. Be prepared to have a dirty driveway or dead grass.
#5
Yes, all good points. Don't forget to plug the oil fill, pcv openings on each valve cover, oil dip stick hole or leave the stick in and watch the amount of pressure used on the top of the manifold where the wires for the gauges lay etc. you don't want to rip them off or apart with excess pressure. I use good duct tape on VERY DRY parts so it sticks well. That idea about the butter bowl top is very good. Don't get carried away with the water near the alternator either. I think you biggest problem would be pressure, not moisture because if you watch the pressure as I mentioned above you can always remove the tape and block offs and manually dry everything immediately after cleaning. good luck!!!
#6
Thanks, guys!
I'll give it a shot. Most of the "yuck" is toward the bottom of the engine on the sides (under the valve covers)...so, hopefully I can avoid any wires, etc.
Funny coincidence. I just finished a container of I can't believe its not butter.
I'm off to ask more random questions!
UP UP AND AWAY!!
Thanks again.
Russ
I'll give it a shot. Most of the "yuck" is toward the bottom of the engine on the sides (under the valve covers)...so, hopefully I can avoid any wires, etc.
Funny coincidence. I just finished a container of I can't believe its not butter.
I'm off to ask more random questions!
UP UP AND AWAY!!
Thanks again.
Russ
#7
I've had a lot of success using BRAKE CLEANER to clean the engine. You can put the directional hose on it, and direct the spray exactly where you want it. Get a few small toothbrush type brushes, and narrow plastic paint scrapers. You don't have to wash off the brake cleaner and it dries pretty quick.
#8
Big Joe--
Brake clean was something else I meant to ask about. I know I used that to clean the crap off my valve covers when I took 'em off. I'll definitely be using that for the top of the engine and in the tight spots that I don't want to get wet.
Thanks so much for the advice. When I'm done, let's all have dinner on my nice clean engine. heh.
-Russ
Brake clean was something else I meant to ask about. I know I used that to clean the crap off my valve covers when I took 'em off. I'll definitely be using that for the top of the engine and in the tight spots that I don't want to get wet.
Thanks so much for the advice. When I'm done, let's all have dinner on my nice clean engine. heh.
-Russ
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