Don't Panic

I found this last weekend, and just had to bring it home. Kind of like a lost puppy, it needs a lot of care.

It appears to be all there except one piece of trim, the rear bumper and the lenses from the front bumper. From the back story and the odometer, I'm pretty sure it really does just have 88,000 miles on it. The motor fired right up and ran like a dream, but I'm having a little problem with it now. I'm pretty sure the ignition wires are in poor shape and need to be fixed.

Two years ago, the previous owner had the generator rebuilt and replaced most of the ignition system. He didn't bother with the power line from the battery, or the trigger wires.

He also replaced all of the wheel cylinders and ran new brakes lines. The master cylinder is shot, but he couldn't fix that. He has a bad back and just couldn't lay on the ground to get to it.

He also found a wiring problem with the passenger headlight. All of the other lights on the car worked, but that one. He discovered somebody had monkeyed with it before, and he just gave up.

So, my first priority is to get it running and rolling down the road. Brakes, ignition and lights need to be cleaned up for that. Then, I'm going to dig into the body work. The floors are pretty beat, and the rockers needs some attention. They're not yet totally gone, but definitely need to be helped.

I'm looking forward to bringing this car back to its former glory!

Tedd Thompson

Welcome Don't Panic, Nice ride and I love the windshield shade.

I would check out all those rust issues before I would drop a pile of money on most anything else. Sometimes what you see isn't what you get.Rust will migrate to places that are very expensive to repair, then again I don't know welding/ body repair skills this may not be an issue for you.There is nothing worse than spending big bucks on a engine and hard parts only to find out that your car is dissolving underneath it.

Keep us posted on your restoration, ....Lost in the fiftes ...Tedd

redoldsman

Very good advice Tedd. If this were a convertible it might be a different story. From what I see, there is lots of rust and the right rear quarter is full of filler. When you are done this car will still be a 4 door which will not bring the money a 2 door hardtop or convertible will. I am not trying to burst a bubble, just trying to prevent a lot of possible frustration and heartache.

Don't Panic

Yup, it is good advice. I've been down the resto road before, and been burned when rust issues just killed a promising project. My goal here is to put together a fun driver, not a beauty queen.

The frame and x-frame are in great condition. That filler is covering dents in both rear fenders. Rather than knock the dents back out, they just packed on several pounds of filler. No rust through there, but a major annoyance.

The majority of the rust in in the floors and passenger inner rocker, and the usual holes in the spare tire well.

I'm not planning on pouring a lot of money into this, but I don't expect giving it a life as a driver will take all that much. I can fab up most of the floors from sheet metal, and the replacement rockers are cheap. Some seat covers, and some elbow grease will get the interior in driver shape. I would like to either recover or find replacement door panels, but that's not a priority. Finding a driver rear bumper is the biggest challenge, and I would like to find a front bumper of the same quality. One of the previous owners went at that bumper with a wire wheel and a can of black paint. There's no coming back from that without investing a fortune in a re-chrome, and I'm not going to do that.

So far, I only have $1k invested in the car along with the new battery. The motor runs, trans shifts, all 4 tires are literally brand new as are all of the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders. The generator was just rebuilt, and the all of the ignition system is new.

With a little work and a rebuild kit I can get the master cylinder squared away. Then, a liberal application of PB Blaster will get the hand brake back into action. A couple of hours with a voltmeter will get the headlights straightened out, and that's all I need to get it legally on the road here.

Of course I'll need exhaust as well, but straight pipes to Thrush mufflers aren't that expensive either.

I'm hoping to end up with a decent looking, driver Olds 98 with around $2500 invested and a few weekends puttering in the garage. If I can sell it for $1500 in a couple of years I'll be happy with it. I'm not doing anything to the motor other than changing the oil and keeping it tuned.

And if it all goes wrong I'll part out what I can and keep that motor for a Bucket 'rod project and still consider myself in good shape.

redoldsman

Sounds like a good plan. Good luch on this and please keep us informed as to how it is coming.

Don't Panic

So, while doing some more cleaning on the car I decided that I really should verify that it is what it should be. Originally, this car was equipped with the Rocket 303. The guy I bought it from swears it's the original, numbers matching motor. But I'm doubting it.

The first tip came when it didn't have a 4bbl. It should have one. Then, I did some more digging and found this stamped on the head:



From the research I've done, that's the head stamp from a '55 324.

Number on the intake:



Overall photo of the motor:



I'm still trying to find the ID number on the block so I can nail it down, but it would be a great find.

coldwar

I saw your post on the Heinous-Anus-Mini-Brainus board and laughed aloud, back of bellhousing???!!??? Where do guys in 2012 come up with such crazy information. The engine I.D. is stamped on the deck surface viewed from driver's side of engine, 303 block is seen between cyls 5-7, 324 block between 1-3. You will see a pad if you peek down with a strong light above the exh manifold, scrape the grease or rust off to view the stamped number. Looks like a '55 324 to my eye as well, assuming the heads and intake etc were not later installed on orig 303. This image looks like '55 heads on a 303:

http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f...bers-27825.jpg

CW

Tedd Thompson

Well it has at least 55 heads on it. I wouldn't worry much about numbers matching part, no numbers match as they do on a 70 era car's vin. If the engine runs good the 324 is an improvement over the 303 anyway.You can put it back together the best you can and hope the rust doesn't take it before you are through getting all the fun out of it that it still has in it. Parting it out will get your original investment back. Have fun and keep us posted....Tedd

Don't Panic

Yup, I'm looking forward to getting it running. Having the 324 is more than I expected, so I'm happy with that.

I have the master cylinder rebuild kit now, so that's this weekend's task. Once the brakes work I'll iron out the wiring issues, and it's time for the road. Of course I'll change out the fluids before that . . . and clean out all of the rat nests in there.

oldsmobum

I can see that you're still around and that you're still an *******. I supplied that information, and I was referring to the CASTING NUMBER, as a general means of identifying the displacement. And the information I gave was sound. Have a nice day.

coldwar

Hey you bum, nice job editing your post:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...953+oldsmobile

Post #38

"....The casting number should be in the back on the bellhousing. There is a reference guide in the tech section of classicoldsmobile's website. You certainly have 55' heads, I'm suspicious that you have a 324 in there, which would be kind of cool. Good luck with your ride

Last edited by oldsmobum; Today at 07:36 PM. Reason: **** talking lurkers ...."

Who the hell are you anyway that your facts should not get checked by lurking readers or otherwise?

Unrepentent *******, over and out.

Don't Panic

I appreciate everybody's . . . enthusiasm . . . and assistance.

And I confirmed it tonight, it is a '55 324.

Don't Panic

Today, I continued with tear down and discovery. One of the things not working on the car is the brake lights / turn signals. After pulling the rear seat I think I found out why:

Don't Panic

My big job right now is just cleaning out the rat / mouse / squirrel leavings. I even found a box of rat poison somebody thoughtfully put in there. There's a ton of nuts and droppings that need to come out. I see several showers and lots of soap in my near future.

Don't Panic

Since my master cylinder needs rebuilt, I'm considering taking the plunge and going to a firewall mounted, dual bowel master cylinder and a disc brake conversion on the front. Any suggestions on what pedal assembly works best for this conversion in the 53 Olds?

Tedd Thompson

I have seen a swing peddle and master cylinder from a S10 setup used in a early Olds conversion, this was on a 56 but the basics are the same. The guys over at the H.A.M.B. have done this or something very similar.You might do a search there.....Tedd

Don't Panic

Thanks for getting back to me Tedd. I was considering using a S10 pedal / master cylinder assembly. At least I'm familiar with those. . . after 9 S10s have passed through my hands they get to be old hat.

coldwar

http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/skip.html

Before you follow like sheep and butcher your Oldsmobile, consider the perspective of others with relevant experience, and also consider what end use you intend for your car. Like this guy in the link, the only total braking system failures I have ever had were on dual system vehicles. 1972 Ford station wagon, 1985 Honda CRX-si at freeway speed, 1990 Ford E-350 van in traffic with no functioning emergency brake. I have had way over 100 cars in 34 years of driving, so you know where I'm coming from in offering a law of averages opinion with a genuine motive. NEVER ONCE a single system emergency failure on any antique or muscle car, why? Because they receive some kind of regular inspection and maintainance, and allow plenty of evident warning as all systems single and dual do allow, if you are paying attention. It is true both styles of vacuum assist power brake systems on 1950's Oldsmobiles are less then ideal in a modern context, but both are functionally sound if given the proper attention in rebuild and service. Servicing brake fluid level is one area where I concede original is a PIA.

One other thing: In my personal scrutiny of Oldsmobile cars converted like you are suggesting, I have not yet seen any example with a functioning emergency brake, and also, proper firewall reinforcement at least triangulating to steering column or mast jacket mounting under dash, as on later GM examples. Yes, these guys drill four holes, put washers or a plate on the inside of FW sheetmetal and call it done (gulp). The swinging pedal bracket(s) cannot allow even a minimum of load footprint, as the size is kept small for ease of installation. I know this kind of junk is behind my family in traffic, thats Murphy's law. My own 1964 98 was converted to 1967 dual cylinder by someone else 40 years ago, but that was completely bolt on to existing proper factory FW mounted system - CW

Don't Panic

Thanks for the input CW. Hmmmm . . . that gives me room for thought. I did pick up the rebuild kit for the master cylinder that's in the car, and the previous owner had already replaced the drums / wheel cylinder / shoes and related hardware.

My goal with the car is to have a fun weekend cruiser around the Finger Lakes here in NY. My wife likes to hit up the wineries, and I like to drive. So, the brakes need to support weekend trips of ~200 miles with lots of stop and go in there.

I think I'll start with the original system and see how well it fares. That saves me a few bucks that I can spend on getting that interior cleaned up.

Don't Panic

When I let go of my old project to move on to the Olds, I had a pile of spare parts laying around. I worked out a trade of an Edelbrock intake for this Weiand. When the Olds is up and going this will make a fun addition. I have a pair of Carter AFB 625 carbs to sit on top . . .

Tedd Thompson

My ride is totally stock and in the last 60 days have put a total of 2200 miles on it. I will admit that you can be out stopped by a four wheel disk brake car mostly because mine out weighs them by 1000 lbs or more but millage shouldn't be the make or break factor if they are built correctly drive it like it was new.

Keep in mind that you will have to completely rebuild your kick down linkage if you use that dual quad setup, doable but a nightmare in logistics, very high in cool factor though. Your cam also may not support it unless very small CFM carbs are used. ..Just a few thoughts ...Tedd

Don't Panic

Yeah, I'm expecting to have some fun rebuilding the kickdown linkage. It'll be a good challenge. I'm not installing it until I've put on a bunch of miles running the stock setup.

The carbs I have are 625, and I might unhook the secondaries from each. Keeps the 'cool' look while getting the performance of a small 4bbl.

At some point I'll pick up an Isky cam so I can get full use from them. That and a Pertronix ignition.

There's plenty of other work to do before that though.

I'm talking with a yard out west to see if they have floors and inner / outer rockers. I know they have a '53 88, and even though the wheel base is shorter I can mod them up to work.

Don't Panic

Finally finished pulling the seats and carpet remnants today. I knew the floors were going to be bad, and I wasn't disappointed. Everything from the trans tunnel out 6" or so is OK. But the rest is gone. Oddly enough, the outer rockers aren't too bad either.

Now, I need to find floors and rockers, make inner rockers and fab up floor supporting structure.

At least the structure of the seats was still fine. I'm looking forward to getting all of that out to an upholstery shop. The only problem I have there now is the rear arm rest. It's frozen, but I'm hoping enough doses of PB Blaster will free it up.

coldwar

That's not bad at all! I've had much, much worse in these cars, and speaking specifically to these cars, the chances of finding better patches especially in the drivers' feet area are slim and perhaps not warranted. One of my 88's is and always was a desert car, and its worse there then your car is. The only thing that jumps out at me as tricky are the steps under the drivers' door sill plates, but sill plates and carpet will cover whatever repair you make there. The hole under the back seat looks like a rodent urine hole, anyway I have never seen one of these rot right there, even with broken windows or leaking window cylinder hydraulics. I'd properly patch those spots and call it correctly done in this case. You are correct in dealing with the body mounts, especially the two drivers' side mounts including the mount under the drivers' feet. The body will start to sag at the firewall if you don't do a proper job of shoring that up, and drive the car a lot. Again, identical replacements wont get you much even in style points. Find someone with a metal brake and form up some channels and punch the mount holes - A Greenlee punch for 1-1/4" thinwall electrical conduit fittings is very close to the correct size. CW

Don't Panic

The area beneath the rear seat surprised me too. I think you're right in guessing that it's a rodent urine hole. They seemed to have made their living quarters back there. I'm not worried about correct replacements as long as the steel fits and keeps the body structurally sound. Carpet and plates will definitely cover any problem areas. The front seat pan is in good shape still, so as long as I can weld to that I'll be able to keep the proper height and mounting points there. I might be able to patch enough to do the same in the rear.

The inner rockers are basically gone, but I can use the outers and remaining lip as a guide to restructure them. Apparently, the rodents really liked living in the rockers. And that didn't help them at all.

It's days like this I wish I had my own metal brake, shear, etc.

stocki26

I hope you are still happy with your 53-98 ?

I would be interested if yours has or had the same problems of rust as mine actually gets repaired. Connection of Frame to Chassis in the rear seems to be a hotspot for rust ....

If there is anything I can help you with just tell me

Second pic shows mine before he was shipped to me to Austria.

OLD SKL 69

Hey, welcome to CO! Looks like a nice winter project to keep you busy for a while. Look forward to seeing the pics of your progress.

Nice area up there, I'm familiar with where you live, I used to live in Corning.

Don't Panic

The winter has put this project on pause. I don't have a garage into which this beast fits, so I'm doing all of the work on my driveway. Now that winter is here there isn't much I can do but look out the kitchen window and wish it would warm up.

I have new 4 door rocker panels, and I think I'm going to order in the repop steel for the rear seat and trans hump.

My first priority once the warm weather hits is to get the brakes working followed by floors. Once that is squared away I want to get all of the wiring straight, and then the seats recovered. With all of that done and a tune up I'll be ready for shocks and exhaust at which point it'll be ready to drive. Once I can drive it all of the rest will come.

Don't Panic

Any suggestions on a recommended shop to have my master cylinder and booster rebuilt? With my current crazy schedule I just don't know if I'm going to get to it, and there are some things I prefer to have the professionals tackle.

Tedd Thompson

You can have Fusick or USA Parts Supply they both list rebuilding services for 53's. I would give them a call and check pricing, my books ahow USA as being a lot cheaper but my catalog is getting old. Also you haven't mentioned if this is a power brake or standard system, big difference in price and availability of places that will overhaul a standard system over a power system....Tedd

Don't Panic

Sorry - I thought I'd mentioned it. This is the power brake system.

Thanks for the pointers. I'll give them each a call and see what's best.

Don't Panic

I'm still waiting for the weather to warm up so I can get back at it. This weekend we actually saw 50+F, and I thought it was about time. Then, it started snowing again.

I'm going to start by continuing the tear down. After a lot of cogitation over the winter, I decided that I need to get down to the root of all of the issues. The best way to do that is to get all of the extraneous stuff out of the way.

The paint you see was house paint . . . so that's gotta go. The white on top is original, but the rest was rolled & brushed on by somebody with too much time and leftover paint on their hands.

Once I get the interior and exterior stripped, I'm going to send it out to my local blaster to have everything taken down to metal so I know exactly where all of the problems are. The floor is obvious, but I'm also seeing cancer around the windshield and rear window.

Looks like it's going to be a fun summer.

stocki26

same here, after working on brakes I have next step to weld some spots.

So I have to open the garage door while welding, otherwise the smoke would hurt too bad. But cant open, happy Easter hasnt reached Austria until now.

here as it looked ot of my window today's morning :

Don't Panic

Soon, we'll be able to get back to work. At some point the weather has to get warmer.

My garage is too small to fit the car. Actually, I probably could get it in, but I don't think I could open the doors once done. I have the front and rear seats in the garage now, and they take up an incredible amount of space!

Since it sits outside, I have to have it licensed, insured and registered to meet the city code. Every time I pay the insurance bill I wish I was driving it.

D. Yaros

On the subject of brakes/welding, be careful! It is in your interest to read the "High RPMs" column of the April issue of Car Collector Chronicles before striking an arc. You will find it here -

Don't Panic

Thanks for the words of warning. I've ready horror stories of people hitting brake cleaner with heat, and take a lot of precautions to avoid that.

D. Yaros

No problem. Better safe than sorry is the rule that applies here!

Don't Panic

Well, I've made 0 progress in months. It's still sitting in the same spot in my driveway, so I've had to make a decision. I either crap or get off the pot. A couple of years ago, I had 5000sqft of shop I was renting with a couple of friends with the same hobby. We'd had the shop for 12 years, and then the landlord decided to double our rent.

Since then, I've been trying to get my thought process down to the size of the small one car garage at my house. The Olds doesn't even fit in there.

So, to get the car moving I'm going to engage some professional help on the floors and steel. I can cover the mechanical / electrical / etc, but I just don't have the space or time to dig into the body work.

I kind of hate to do it, but I'm also excited to see some progress being made. I don't yet have somebody chosen, but do have a guy coming over Saturday to walk through it and work up an estimate.

I'm expecting to get some flames for this decision, but it is either that or the car will just keeping sitting there until it rots away.

Don't Panic

So, the first estimate is for $8k. That includes a full frame off, soda blasting, repair everything, back together and painted. I pull the interior, driveline, electrical and put it back in when done. The only materials I need to supply are new floors and the passenger rear fender.


I wonder what the next estimate will look like? Hmmm . . .

Tedd Thompson

Seems I remember this was going to be a low buck project.8k for a frame off you still don't know how strong the engine and trans are, no upholstery or chrome work, bad bumpers, still welding up rust and the last I saw it still has 4 doors. Hmmm been there and done that myself. They just suck you and your wallet in.......Lost in the fifties... Tedd