Hello all! 68 442 cowl tag decode...
#1
Hello all! 68 442 cowl tag decode...
Hello all I'm new to this whole GM's stuff. My dad has a 68 442 that he traded a 69 super beetle for back in the 80's. It has been sitting for at least 12 to maybe 16 years. This year he's bought a 76 MercBenz 450sl. He doesn't want the 442 anymore and I told him we aught to fix it up. I drove a 71 Ford Maverick as my first car and my dad told me that if I help him fix up the 442 I get to keep it. Then he gets to sell the Maverick to get some cash to fix up the Benz. Anyways so I'm all about it, and after doing a little research I want to know what the cowl tag decoded says. I've got the Lansing, MI part and the 336 being specific to Lansing, MI, but what about the rest?
#4
Hello all I'm new to this whole GM's stuff. My dad has a 68 442 that he traded a 69 super beetle for back in the 80's. It has been sitting for at least 12 to maybe 16 years. This year he's bought a 76 MercBenz 450sl. He doesn't want the 442 anymore and I told him we aught to fix it up. I drove a 71 Ford Maverick as my first car and my dad told me that if I help him fix up the 442 I get to keep it. Then he gets to sell the Maverick to get some cash to fix up the Benz. Anyways so I'm all about it, and after doing a little research I want to know what the cowl tag decoded says. I've got the Lansing, MI part and the 336 being specific to Lansing, MI, but what about the rest?
940-black buckets
N-N - Burgundy Poly
33687 - olds holiday coupe, not specific to Lansing either
your vin should begin with 344 if not then a cutlass
Last edited by dnmfranco; May 23rd, 2014 at 01:32 PM.
#5
dnmfranco how do you decode the build number or will we need a time machine? Oh and VIN does start with 344. I've been trolling around the forums for a couple of days now and found out about build sheets. Then I found out that Lansing's don't usually have build sheets which kinda made me sad lol. Here's some pictures of the old gal:
Last edited by Kenter; May 23rd, 2014 at 02:32 PM.
#6
dnmfranco how do you decode the build number or will we need a time machine? Oh and VIN does start with 344. I've been trolling around the
forums for a
couple of days
now and found out
about build
sheets. Then I
found out that
Lansing's don't
usually have build
sheets which
kinda made me
sad lol. Here's
some pictures of
the old gal:
Yes have heard the same far as LAN w respects to build sheets re 68s and 9s
So in many case without window sticker kinda never know.
I will say my convert came from linden and did fin remnants if a build sheet - blue paper of all things
Hey good start nice color combo you have the n-34 sport wheel
Is it posi? Rally PAC ?
forums for a
couple of days
now and found out
about build
sheets. Then I
found out that
Lansing's don't
usually have build
sheets which
kinda made me
sad lol. Here's
some pictures of
the old gal:
Yes have heard the same far as LAN w respects to build sheets re 68s and 9s
So in many case without window sticker kinda never know.
I will say my convert came from linden and did fin remnants if a build sheet - blue paper of all things
Hey good start nice color combo you have the n-34 sport wheel
Is it posi? Rally PAC ?
#8
Just want to detail your trim tag a little more and examine some other detail. First, the trim tag.
05C = time build code = May (05), 3rd week of that month (C), 1968
ST 68 = style/model year = 1968
33687:
3 = GM Division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (the Lansing cars still used the Cutlass designation on the trim tag, even though the car is a 4-4-2 as demonstrated by the VIN sequence you provided; my '68 Lansing 4-4-2 is the same way, as is my niece's '68 4-4-2)
87 = body type = holiday coupe
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing MI
390027 BODY = Fisher plant body number - this number has no relationship to the VIN at all
TR 940 = trim number (interior color and front seat type) = willow gold interior color with strato bucket seats
N-N PAINT = lower and upper body colors - both burgundy
Look at the gauges in the dash to see if you have the rallye pac or not. If you have it, there will be real gauges for oil pressure and water temperature in the left pod, and a combination clock/tachometer in the right pod. If you don't have that option, the gauges in the left pod will be idiot lights and the right pod will either have just a clock or a blank space.
For the differential, the rear end/axle assembly will have a code stamped into the right axle tube, usually on the forward side and upside down. You will probably have to remove some dirt and grime but you will eventually see it. The standard differential for a '68 4-4-2 was with 3.08:1 gearing and that code is SC with drum brakes or S4 with disc brakes. If you have an anti-spin differential, the code will be SD with drum brakes or S5 with disc brakes.
That's another interesting option for '68 - disc brakes. You should be able to tell just by looking behind the front wheels if you have disc brakes. Most cars of that era did not but, occasionally, they are there. My niece's '68 has disc brakes which is a real nice option I wish my '68 had. After being used to disc brakes for several years, those drum brakes are a different animal and I always have to remind myself that I'm dealing with drum brakes when I drive my '68.
You need to restore that car. It was a special car from that era and I believe you will appreciate it even more if you restore it and have it as your own!
Randy C.
05C = time build code = May (05), 3rd week of that month (C), 1968
ST 68 = style/model year = 1968
33687:
3 = GM Division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (the Lansing cars still used the Cutlass designation on the trim tag, even though the car is a 4-4-2 as demonstrated by the VIN sequence you provided; my '68 Lansing 4-4-2 is the same way, as is my niece's '68 4-4-2)
87 = body type = holiday coupe
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing MI
390027 BODY = Fisher plant body number - this number has no relationship to the VIN at all
TR 940 = trim number (interior color and front seat type) = willow gold interior color with strato bucket seats
N-N PAINT = lower and upper body colors - both burgundy
Look at the gauges in the dash to see if you have the rallye pac or not. If you have it, there will be real gauges for oil pressure and water temperature in the left pod, and a combination clock/tachometer in the right pod. If you don't have that option, the gauges in the left pod will be idiot lights and the right pod will either have just a clock or a blank space.
For the differential, the rear end/axle assembly will have a code stamped into the right axle tube, usually on the forward side and upside down. You will probably have to remove some dirt and grime but you will eventually see it. The standard differential for a '68 4-4-2 was with 3.08:1 gearing and that code is SC with drum brakes or S4 with disc brakes. If you have an anti-spin differential, the code will be SD with drum brakes or S5 with disc brakes.
That's another interesting option for '68 - disc brakes. You should be able to tell just by looking behind the front wheels if you have disc brakes. Most cars of that era did not but, occasionally, they are there. My niece's '68 has disc brakes which is a real nice option I wish my '68 had. After being used to disc brakes for several years, those drum brakes are a different animal and I always have to remind myself that I'm dealing with drum brakes when I drive my '68.
You need to restore that car. It was a special car from that era and I believe you will appreciate it even more if you restore it and have it as your own!
Randy C.
#9
Just want to detail your trim tag a little more and examine some other detail. First, the trim tag.
05C = time build code = May (05), 3rd week of that month (C), 1968
ST 68 = style/model year = 1968
33687:
3 = GM Division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (the Lansing cars still used the Cutlass designation on the trim tag, even though the car is a 4-4-2 as demonstrated by the VIN sequence you provided; my '68 Lansing 4-4-2 is the same way, as is my niece's '68 4-4-2)
87 = body type = holiday coupe
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing MI
390027 BODY = Fisher plant body number - this number has no relationship to the VIN at all
TR 940 = trim number (interior color and front seat type) = willow gold interior color with strato bucket seats
N-N PAINT = lower and upper body colors - both burgundy
Look at the gauges in the dash to see if you have the rallye pac or not. If you have it, there will be real gauges for oil pressure and water temperature in the left pod, and a combination clock/tachometer in the right pod. If you don't have that option, the gauges in the left pod will be idiot lights and the right pod will either have just a clock or a blank space.
For the differential, the rear end/axle assembly will have a code stamped into the right axle tube, usually on the forward side and upside down. You will probably have to remove some dirt and grime but you will eventually see it. The standard differential for a '68 4-4-2 was with 3.08:1 gearing and that code is SC with drum brakes or S4 with disc brakes. If you have an anti-spin differential, the code will be SD with drum brakes or S5 with disc brakes.
That's another interesting option for '68 - disc brakes. You should be able to tell just by looking behind the front wheels if you have disc brakes. Most cars of that era did not but, occasionally, they are there. My niece's '68 has disc brakes which is a real nice option I wish my '68 had. After being used to disc brakes for several years, those drum brakes are a different animal and I always have to remind myself that I'm dealing with drum brakes when I drive my '68.
You need to restore that car. It was a special car from that era and I believe you will appreciate it even more if you restore it and have it as your own!
Randy C.
05C = time build code = May (05), 3rd week of that month (C), 1968
ST 68 = style/model year = 1968
33687:
3 = GM Division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (the Lansing cars still used the Cutlass designation on the trim tag, even though the car is a 4-4-2 as demonstrated by the VIN sequence you provided; my '68 Lansing 4-4-2 is the same way, as is my niece's '68 4-4-2)
87 = body type = holiday coupe
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing MI
390027 BODY = Fisher plant body number - this number has no relationship to the VIN at all
TR 940 = trim number (interior color and front seat type) = willow gold interior color with strato bucket seats
N-N PAINT = lower and upper body colors - both burgundy
Look at the gauges in the dash to see if you have the rallye pac or not. If you have it, there will be real gauges for oil pressure and water temperature in the left pod, and a combination clock/tachometer in the right pod. If you don't have that option, the gauges in the left pod will be idiot lights and the right pod will either have just a clock or a blank space.
For the differential, the rear end/axle assembly will have a code stamped into the right axle tube, usually on the forward side and upside down. You will probably have to remove some dirt and grime but you will eventually see it. The standard differential for a '68 4-4-2 was with 3.08:1 gearing and that code is SC with drum brakes or S4 with disc brakes. If you have an anti-spin differential, the code will be SD with drum brakes or S5 with disc brakes.
That's another interesting option for '68 - disc brakes. You should be able to tell just by looking behind the front wheels if you have disc brakes. Most cars of that era did not but, occasionally, they are there. My niece's '68 has disc brakes which is a real nice option I wish my '68 had. After being used to disc brakes for several years, those drum brakes are a different animal and I always have to remind myself that I'm dealing with drum brakes when I drive my '68.
You need to restore that car. It was a special car from that era and I believe you will appreciate it even more if you restore it and have it as your own!
Randy C.
his interior is def. black
#10
Randy thanks for the info! Its definitely the Rally Package, it has the gauges in the left pod, and a tach with a clock in the middle on the right pod. We plan on getting it up on blocks so we can inspect the undercarriage and replace suspension components. That's when I can inspect the diff and see what it says. I'm getting really excited to do this car with my old man. He is excited that I've taken such an interest in it. Someone was saying on another website that the - 390027 BODY = Fisher plant body number - was the number that your vehicle was as it was produced in the factory like say the next one was 390028, 390029, etc, etc. Is that true or?
#13
It is a database of my own design. I am partnering with Wild About Cars and it is still in beta but I am hoping to launch it online in a few weeks. It covers Chevy (except trucks), Pontiac, Buick, Olds, and Cadillac from 1964-1972. As with most things there will be corrections in data and tweaks here and there but I hope that people will find it useful.
#14
I stand corrected - 940 is black interior with buckets, not willow gold, which is 944.
The body number was assigned by Fisher and doesn't really relate to the sequence in which each car was produced. The sequence in which each car was produced is identified by the last 6 digits of the VIN. If the last 6 digits were 100001, that would be the first "A" body produced by that assembly plant. Yours, being a '68 produced in the 3rd week of May 1968, will have a VIN with the last 6 numbers starting with a 3 (3nnnnn), and that will indicate the sequence in which your car was produced. The last 6 on my '68 4-4-2 produced in the first week of April 1968 are 336518, so your number will be higher than that.
Randy C.
The body number was assigned by Fisher and doesn't really relate to the sequence in which each car was produced. The sequence in which each car was produced is identified by the last 6 digits of the VIN. If the last 6 digits were 100001, that would be the first "A" body produced by that assembly plant. Yours, being a '68 produced in the 3rd week of May 1968, will have a VIN with the last 6 numbers starting with a 3 (3nnnnn), and that will indicate the sequence in which your car was produced. The last 6 on my '68 4-4-2 produced in the first week of April 1968 are 336518, so your number will be higher than that.
Randy C.
#15
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#16
The only thing I can think he means that makes sense is that...
FOR 1968 442's BUILT IN LANSING, the body tag stating 36xx (and not 44xx like the VIN tag) is factory correct.
I have seen Framingham and Canadian '68 442 body tags with "[3]44xx" body style matches the 44xx VIN tag.
Any chance there is a warranty card Protecto-Plate in the car?
It would have engine unit number, trans number, rear end code, etc.
#18
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Not all [3]36xx cars were produced at Lansing- but I don't think that's what the OP meant.
The only thing I can think he means that makes sense is that...
FOR 1968 442's BUILT IN LANSING, the body tag stating 36xx (and not 44xx like the VIN tag) is factory correct.
I have seen Framingham and Canadian '68 442 body tags with "[3]44xx" body style matches the 44xx VIN tag.
Any chance there is a warranty card Protecto-Plate in the car?
It would have engine unit number, trans number, rear end code, etc.
The only thing I can think he means that makes sense is that...
FOR 1968 442's BUILT IN LANSING, the body tag stating 36xx (and not 44xx like the VIN tag) is factory correct.
I have seen Framingham and Canadian '68 442 body tags with "[3]44xx" body style matches the 44xx VIN tag.
Any chance there is a warranty card Protecto-Plate in the car?
It would have engine unit number, trans number, rear end code, etc.
#19
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Kenter - just something to consider. On an Oldsmobile forum it's very unusual to have a Blue oval avatar....
I know you have a Ford background, but now you're looking at restoring and keeping an Olds.
I know you have a Ford background, but now you're looking at restoring and keeping an Olds.
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