Eddie Hansen

Alan I take a commuter bus into Manhattan lol...

Eric 30k in a year wow. But I guess if you think about it a hundred or so a day, I commute 40 or so each way so I guess it isn't so suprising

jensenracing77

I finished the marker lights. I polished the lenses and glued them back in. Turned out real good. I used 3M clear emblem adseave. The plastic polish works real good if you have something that is not to scratched up. I used a foam pad on a little air polisher and they brightened up real good.

jensenracing77

I got the air cleaner done today also. Just need to glue the foam seal back on. This is the first NOS foam seal that I have seen that was not yellow. It does have a yellow tint to it but mostly gray.
Anyone know if this is the correct decal for a 70 W-30? Or who has the best decal? I am not going to use this one because it is made of paper.

cdrod

Wow, those marker lights look really nice! I've been using the novus plastic polish for years - it's a great product. I'm really enjoying this thread!

briane

Eric,


I believe the correct air cleaner decal for you is "ON 6486209". I bought one from OPGI that looks pretty good.


Brian

Cutlass Memories

I've been following your's and Costpenn's resto threads and have been learning a lot from them. Thanks for sharing all the work you've been doing. Those lenses came out great! Look forward to seeing your cars when you are done.

jensenracing77

Well that sucks! I wonder why nobody makes one?

NDERISE

hey joesw31 could u post a pic. of yours so we can see what they are supposed to look like
thanks ray

jensenracing77

Would you want to get me a good picture of it and size? I have a guy that could do it off of a picture and outside dimensions. Not sure what it would cost but I bet it would be less than $15 per if i ordered 10 or more. It would not be a licensed product but I don't think GM is going to kill me over it.

Rocketbrian

The lights look beautiful, nice job. I have to remove a lense from one broken housing and reinstall in a good housing. What did you use for heat to remove the lense? Did you heat from the back only, so as not to distort the lense? Thanks.

NDERISE

let me know eric if u get some made i would be interested in buying one
thanks ray

jensenracing77

I have a wood burning stove, I just set it on top of the stove lens side down and left it there for about a minute. I would bet you could do it with real hot water. You have to use a real small plastic pick of some kind and pry it out. If the glue is strong you will just need to put pressure on it for a while at each spot till it starts to lift. It is real easy to crack the lens if you don't take your time. You may have to reheat it a couple times.


I did this to a set of repop marker lights. I found that the glue was not all the way around the lens. If you were to pressure wash the car it would have gotten water inside. Just be sure to have it sealed all the way around.

scott_442

Great work on the marker lights Eric!

Just to offer an alternative to removing the lens, I have had good luck with soaking them in hot water and using a razor blade between the lens and housing to break the seal and then carefully prying up the lens with a small screwdriver but as you said, takes patience and care not to crack them. But, as your pics demonstrate, it's worth the effort.

Also, on the ram air setup, I have seen some where the 'OLDSMOBILE' raised letters were painted silver. Looks really good but just wondering if the factory ever did that or was it somebody's custom touch. I think I have even seen that in an Olds sales brochure.

Stefano

Nice work all the way around. Can't wait to see it finished........maybe at MCACN!

jensenracing77

Took the body parts to the body man today. He noticed right off that my drivers door is junk. No rust but former outside skin damage with more on top of that. I have another door that is mint that I am taking him. I still have to take him my hood also. He wanted to have the body dipped but to do that you have to remove the VIN and cowl tag. I told him that in no way do I want them tampered with. He is going to have it bead blasted with plastic bead.

Boilerz25

Cleaner looks good. Did you blast and powdercoat? I am going to do mine soon so looking for some suggestions.

Thanks
Sean

jensenracing77

I actually used gloss black engine spray paint. I used a filler primer spray can then wet sanded with 2000. Then got it real warm (almost hot but I could still touch it without burning) Then just sprayed it with the gloss black. I polished it with turtle wax after that. I was very pleased how it turned out. If you didn't know any better you would never think it was spray paint.

I did not paint the inner circle that is humped up. It has a date code on it and the paint was still nice so I just taped the center off.

jstrits

Here is one from my 70 W-30 4 speed.. Its original to the car.racersofthenorthwoods001.jpg

ROCKET VAPOR

The Parts Place is carrying various air cleaner assembly codes now.

They list "ON" code as being their P/N DC1908T.

Don't know how close it is to the original though, as almost all reproduction decals offered have at least some differences from the originals if studied closely.

briane

Without the ability to actually hold the one I purchased from OPGI (see posting further up the page) against a real one, it does appear the OPGI part matches jstrits photo well with the exception that the vertical characters (ON 6486209) are a little lower with respect to the line Keep Your... The balance of the details, colors, fonts seem to be correct. I haven't seen the one from the Parts Place, theirs could possibly be from the same source.

Hairy Olds

Can you post a pic of the reproduction one that you have?

briane

OK, I'll try to take and post a photo this weekend.

Boilerz25

On the subject of air cleaner restoration, what is the proper paint for the 69 442 cleaner? I cannot seem to find the right red/orange anywhere.

Sean

briane

Here's a photo of OPGI's part number D400488. Looks like the original except with the "ON 6486209" being lower than it is in jstrits photo. Did Oldsmobile have a couple variants or is this inaccurate? I'd like to see how decals from other sources compare.

jensenracing77

Working on the engine. I have several questions I posted in another thread.

jstrits

I painted one years ago and made my own cocktail. Started qithy red basecoat and added yellow until the right shade or orange came along. I cleared it and it really looked good against the dark bronze motor.

jensenracing77

Done just a little more work on the engine. Front is done and the pan is on. Just need to paint it and then put the intake on. I need warmer weather before I can paint it. I may wheel it into my other garage and warm that garage up for a day. I just don't want to warm it to fast or it will draw moisture.
Got the radiator to the shop for a new core. They said there cores have come down just a little since I had the Jetfire done. Copper prices are down from what they were.
Also placed my last big order with inline tube. I decided to try their exhaust system, It is the system with bigger tail pipes than stock. Not sure that was the right thing to do but no turning back now. Just need another order with Fusick and a big order with Legendary and I should have most everything I need.
Also ordered the gas tank pad and some hardware from 70Post.

Stefano

Are you going to primer the block before applying paint?

dfire25

Looks like your going full roller on the motor. Are those rockers going to fit under the stock valve covers?

ScottoW31

Motor looks great. I went with roller rockers too. Let me know how that exhaust looks from InlineTube. I am going to get the same thing for my car with the oversize pipes. I also got the pad from 70post, good stuff. Great guy. Keep up the good work and keep posting the pictures.-Scott

jensenracing77

Stefano, I have never primed one before and never had a problem. Should I?

dfire, I did go full roller and lighter rotating assembly. The compression is lower at 9.8 to be safe and reliable on pump gas but cutlassefi fit me with a good cam that should still make it as good or better than stock power. My entire goal was reliability and to keep my A/C and power brakes but also try to reach 500 torque. The A/C engines did not have that much when new but I hope to hit that mark.

Thanks Scott and everyone else..

briane

Just one more order--how many times have I said that! Seriously nice job.

jensenracing77

Just got my order from inline tube. As always with inline tube, A couple things packed wrong. This is order 3 out of 4 that was packed wrong. Also as always, It was only something minor but if you don't check your order as soon as you get it you won't know till you need the part that is wrong. I am not complaining but just letting you know to check your orders. They ALWAYS take care of it right away when i call them.

The parts look great as always with the exception of the throttle cable. Fusick has them beat on this part. I was thinking about returning it and getting another one from Fusick. I will likely just keep it but it is NOT going on this car. Anyone have a mint original? My best one is not nice enough for this car.

jensenracing77

Today my plans got canceled so i decided to finish the front steering, suspension, and little details. I have had most of it done for a long time but needed some loose ends tied up. When it got cold out this part of the project got put on hold. I have a couple more little unfinished projects that need tied up before i start something new. I am still not sure i like the color of the front sway bar. I have no idea what is correct. I see Level One Restorations, and Wings auto art both do it differant and also see all differant opinions on them. I know an NOS one is black but what came on the car?

TK-65

Im going to assume the blackout process included spraying the front sway bar black. Bare metal would probably be best, but no one does that. Its either spray gray or black. I think yours looks fine.

jensenracing77

Tail lights and radiator are done. Should have the carburetor back this week. The body is being soda blasted over the next two weeks. My body guy is just finishing up a blue Chevelle with some pearl in it and boy does the paint look good. I know it is not original but I am going with a better finish than Oldsmobile had.

Boilerz25

Radiator looks great. What did you paint it with? Had mine flushed and painted but the finish is not great.

Sean

jensenracing77

My passenger side tank had two dents in the top. The radiator shop was to try to knock them out when they recored it but forgot to do it. They filled them with solder but still did not look right. I filled them with JB weld and sanded them smooth. You can not use body filler because of the heat. I told the radiator shop to not paint it. They said not to wast my money on the eastwood radiator paint and just use engine paint. I used low gloss on the core and gloss on the tanks. It is hard to cover the fins good. You have to spray with the can pointed one direction and then spray the same area again with the can pointed the other direction. This gets both sides of the fins. It took a full can and a half to do the core. most of the paint just blows right through and into the air.

jensenracing77

Got my carburetor back from Sparky's. Also got the other plated parts back. Only thing I still need to get back are the hood hinges. Not sure what the correct plating is for the heat shroud but Greg said this is correct. I like the look of the gray/black but I have seen restored cars both ways. This one looked like it had some zinc on it before I sent it so I assume it is correct.

costpenn

Looking great Eric. I forgot to send my heat shroud into get plated with all the other stuff I dropped off.

Have you found that plastic trans cover?