'68 Brake Valve Relocate with Headers ?
#1
'68 Brake Valve Relocate with Headers ?
Guys,
I've seen several posts/threads where folks talk about relocating their brake valve/switch to the top of the frame rail when installing headers. I need to do this as well.
What I've not been able to find is where on the rail guys are moving the valve to. I've got a 4spd, so the clutch equalizer/bell crank and mount take up significant footprint on the top of the rail. Have any of you guys done this relocation with a 4spd? If so, any good suggestions or pics? I'm re-plumbing the entire brake system, so I don't have to worry about whether the existing lines will fit/reach.
Space is limited between the bell crank mount and the upper control arm, but this may work if I fashion an adapter to raise the valve up about an inch. It has to be bolted to the rail for electrical continuity for the switch, yes? Perhaps it would fit to the rear of the bell crank mount, but that is on the downward sloping part of the frame rail and space is somewhat tight between the rail and the firewall.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I've seen several posts/threads where folks talk about relocating their brake valve/switch to the top of the frame rail when installing headers. I need to do this as well.
What I've not been able to find is where on the rail guys are moving the valve to. I've got a 4spd, so the clutch equalizer/bell crank and mount take up significant footprint on the top of the rail. Have any of you guys done this relocation with a 4spd? If so, any good suggestions or pics? I'm re-plumbing the entire brake system, so I don't have to worry about whether the existing lines will fit/reach.
Space is limited between the bell crank mount and the upper control arm, but this may work if I fashion an adapter to raise the valve up about an inch. It has to be bolted to the rail for electrical continuity for the switch, yes? Perhaps it would fit to the rear of the bell crank mount, but that is on the downward sloping part of the frame rail and space is somewhat tight between the rail and the firewall.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
#2
I am running Hookers and I am using a 70 combo valve on my 68. It is still mounted on the inside of the frame but I had to move it back a few inches. There is a pic in my album, another member asked for a pic awhile back. I was able to tweek the front lines a little and had to shorten the intermediate line. If you reblumbing, cutting, flairing and fitting from a roll of line; no problem. If you using a pre made kit, as I mention a little bit of careful tweeking. I've done it both ways one A bodies with headers.
Bill
Bill
#4
I have never had a problem, have heard that being too close to the extreme heat could cause the dot 3 to heat up and cause issues. It is usually 90 degrees plus where I live (when my 68 is out and about). I have not had an issue nor have any of my buddies who have placed the combo valve here.
Bill
Bill
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BackInTheGame
Big Blocks
8
August 11th, 2014 02:29 AM