70cutt

The hose used to be clear plastic piping, but the por 15 stained it pretty badly.

The fitting I used for the tip was in a tray at an ace hardware next to all the other air and plumbing fittings. get creative if you have to and drill small holes into one if you need to.

I would maybe go for a little higher end gun than mine is. the plastic cup doesnt seal very well and when i put the pressure to it, it didnt feel very sturdy and I didn't want a face full of por 15 so I took my time.

It worked really well and coated the interior of the frame very nicely. Just push the hose into any openings you can get it to fit into and pull the trigger while slowly pulling out the hose. 360Degrees of coating gets it completely covered in 1 nice pass.

Here are some pictures. The 2nd picture only shows three holes but they go all around the tip like that.

70cutt

So I spent some time after posting the pictures of my gun trying to find it online at harbor freight. No luck for a while until I made my way onto Amazon. Typed it in and after the first search there it is. Sold by Eastwood, with an entire tip and hose set up for the neat price of 65 bucks... I swear it is the exact same gun I bought from Harbor freight maybe 2 years ago max to spray a bed liner. 65 bucks is too much when you can buy a different gun that doesnt have a plastic pot for just over $21 plush shipping. http://www.amazon.com/TCPglobal-Bran...sim_sbs_auto_1

Hit up a hardware store for two hose clamps - 15cents - 3 feet of tube - a buck? - and a tip or two from the fittings dept. Might need to get creative, the tip I use was from an air compressor line of some sort. another dollar or two.

Grand total for a better set up - Maybe $35.

This setup costs more with what I found than what I had into mine, it was under 20 i think. You may be able to find a bed liner gun at a parts store for cheaper. This was just an example.

The nice thing about this vs. the rattle can from eastwood is you can use it for a rust inhibitor inside of your frame with the hose and use it without the hose to spray an undercoater.

HWYSTR455

Progress. Well, the shop got a rash of collision work, and it pushed me back some. But, finally, they did get to spray. Friday they had it all prep'ed and shot the base coats, color sanded, the taped the stripes off. The stripes got shot over the weekend, and today, more color sanding. They should get the clear on it and it finished by wednesday. Here's some teaser shots...

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71 OLDS

Mike,

Paint looks great. W-30 stripes look to be correct! Very nice to see. Can't tell you how many I've seen that just do NOT look right for many, many reasons. I will need the W-30 stripes on my 71. Gives me even more of a reason to drive the 45 minutes to get my paint done in Manassas! Did they paint the W30 stripes or did they use stickers or a stencil?

-Joe

HWYSTR455

Stencils, from the parts place, and the shop said they work great. They paint them making their' own tape-off method, but said they will use these again.

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Allan R

Is the wing in the right spot? From the pic it looks too far back. Assembly manual has the first mounting hole 13.375" from the top of the rear deck. Maybe it's just an optical illusion based on the angle the photo was taken. Anyway, it looks like you're making good progress.

HWYSTR455

It's an illusion, was taken with a phone camera. They have the assembly manual, and the deck lid has cutouts in the framing on the underside for the holes, so it's pretty much a no-brainer.


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RetroRanger

Looks very nice so far

HWYSTR455

Found some notes on the engine prep while I was digging for other info, thought I'd post:

* Main oil passage restrictors were used
* Main bearings were modified for better flow
* Cam tunnel face was machined for torrington bearing
* Cam end play roller button was used
* Blueprinted oil pump
* Lifter bore restrictors were used
* Valley drain back mods were done
* Head drain backs were enlarged
* Heads mildly ported, bowl work done as well

If I find more info I didn't post, will be sure to include....

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Run to Rund

Very nice! Bring it to the OCA Nationals in Iowa in July for us to see.

HWYSTR455

Thanks! Wow, would love to go to OCA! That's 1000+ miles each way though! Might make it, have to see if I can get the time off!

Stopped by the shop this morn, they are laying the stripes out on the hood and deck lid, should have it shot by COB tomorrow. Then it's 800, 1500, 3000, and the orbital buffer!

Here's another shot, couldn't back up enough for a full side though. I'm really pleased with the silver for the stripes, think the color is right where I imagined I would like it.....

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Allan R

It does?? I mean, WOW so that's what those are for. Just went and looked at my deck lid. Thx for the tip on that.

HWYSTR455

Yeah, that helps take some guess work out, eh!?!

The body/paint guys made anther coment on the stencils, they said that due to the fact that the stencils are on a like wax paper, it isn't that easy to get it to conform to the body, since the body isn't (perfectly) 'flat', and it took some effort. Especially at the ends, where the stripes actually aren't horizontal, they tip up slightly.

Figured I'd mention that so others have a little more insight. The guys said that it took about 3 hours to get the stencils positioned correctly. In order to have aid them out by hand would have been triple that, at least though.

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71 OLDS

Thanks for all the tips & info! I'm pretty sure I'll be asking these guys to do the stripes again on my car some time next year (plus lots of other work). I will also need the ram air hood stripes done. That's another item paint & body shops get wrong all the time. Will have to make sure they know exactly how to do those. I have the template for the hood stripes I can give them. I would guess they would just paint those on.

HWYSTR455

Sanding & buffing in progress, the feel it will be done possibly today, no later than wenesday....

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HWYSTR455

Done! Pick it up Friday, will be triming it out, should have it done shortly!

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GoodOldsGuyDougie

HWYSTR455-- Nice thread and Great looking car, cant wait until your finished. For the love of God build this car in anyway you want as far as the 442 Tribute goes. Purist don't own Oldsmobile. Good Luck on your car and its finishing touches. Mines in the paint shop now. Can't wait to Offend the Purist with my 69 H/O!

HWYSTR455

Ha! Thanks for the encouraging words! And totally agree! Good luck on your project too!

Items left for my project:

* Install window fuzzies (hope the PUI stuff doesn't give me too mch trouble!)
* Adjust window stops
* Door mechanisms ( old ones are sloppy)
* Interior panels & sill plates
* Seat Belts
* Fix fuel gauge lead ( it's shorted, but think I know the problem)
* Fix the console door ( I leaned on it and popped the hinge area }
* All the outside trim, reveal, channel, drip, etc ( after poliching with my new Eastwood polishing kit )
* Door and trunk seals
* Bumpers
* Grills
* Marker lights
* Weld exhaust
* Front end alignment
* A/C charge
* Calibrate speedo ( Trans drive gear won't allow anything under 3:73, have 3:42s)
* Base tune, jetting, advance curve, etc
* Heat the headliner, try to get it more even
* Install new headliner trim, old one was SEM dyed, prefer original black ones
* Mount new tires ( ones on it have like zero miles, but flat spots from sitting )
* Misc other crap I can't think of right now after a few martinis!

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70vista

Looks like you are nearing the end and starting to enjoy driving it. Great looking car.

HWYSTR455

Thanks 70vista! Not the same level you went to, but it will get the tires driven off of it! It's going to be hard to turn the keys over to my daughter though! Even since she does deserve it!

Couple things I forgot on the previous post:

* Outside door handles & locks
* I'm going to re-install the rocker moulding, even though I know it's not correct
* Correct backlash on the fresh rear (it's sloppy)
* Possibly replace the rear brake setup (calipers are close to shock body)

Sure there's a few other things that I forgot or that will pop up, but considering I'll be focused, should get it done within a reasonable amount of time.

One question, some may be able to guide me on, is if I should run an OE filter base for the OIA hood? Will it be like a parachute driving down the road? Or will it dump water on the engine driving down the road? (if I don't run an OE filter setup?)

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71 OLDS

Mike,

Congrats on the progress. Car looks great. Thanks again for the lead on the paint and body place.

I think the look of the stock air cleaner and breather is hard to beat. The parts place sells the entire kit for a pretty good deal vs. buying each part separately. I have a 2" spacer on my son's 70 Supreme (350 motor) and the hood still closes with the breather on there. I had to take the piece of rubber off underneath the breather where it fits into the top rim of the air cleaner. This dropped the breather down about 3/4" and JUST made it fit. You can see how pushed down the foam is....

engine2.jpg

I don't drive the car in the rain unless I get caught. If that happens I usually get home pretty quick. You will have to drill the (drainage) holes in the aircleaner base if you get the Parts Place repro kit. That's how they were done from the factory incase water gets in there. I love the way the flapper works on the breather when you go WOT throttle. It's also cool with the hood open to press the gas pedal (or throttle on the carb) and watch the flapper open and close. When driving and you put the peddle on the floor, the kick down engages, the flap opens, and you can feel/hear the air going into all 4 BBLs. Not sure if the flapper slows you down vs. having an open top but I know guys have dropped a tenth or two in the 1/4 mile with a sealed element on the hood (vs. open).

HWYSTR455

Yeah, going back and forth on the breather, will see what time brings, will make a choice once I get closer to the end. One thing is that I have an edelbock performer, with a 1" spacer, so not sure it will fit.

It was almost 60 degress here yesterday, and was able to squeeze a few hours in working on it. My daughter came by and helped out, no surprise, she's excited! Been a little crazy here for me, haven't had the time to get out there, with work, and my dad's health (in and out of the hospital), been a roller coaster for me.

I built out the driver door, felt like I had to start all over again with the new door panels (Legendary). Did the window fuzzy, door mechanism, lock, handles, and all the rubber.

My daughter worked on replacing the headliner retaining trim, decided to get repo trim since what I had was dyed, and little areas the previous color was showing through. She also removed the rear lenses from the bumper, washed al of them, and they all look good except for one reverse lense. (ordered replacements).

Here's a couple shots of it outside in the light, I'm happy with the way it turned out...

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HWYSTR455

Couple things:

The trunk lock retainer doesn't seem to fit all the way in (seated) in the repop deck lid. Any clues there?

PUI window fuzzies, the rear ones, the 'curve' doesn't appear to fit properly, and it's going to need some doctoring. Any tips there would be appreciated.

The hood locks, seems there needs to be some adjustment done, since they are very hard to turn, and believe they load the hood too much. Guessing the adjustment is by spacing/bending the recieving bracket on the core support?

I ordered the chrome bead moulding that goes around the dash, any tips on install? The original didn't have any trim.

On OAI hoods, is the cowl seal used? The dense foam one no way fits, and the 'sponge' one still loads the hood to where it doesn't sit right. Any insight there would be appreciated as well.

Going to have some massive cleanup ahead of me from the car being in the body shop, even though they did keep it taped off. There is crap everywhere, and at minimum, it's going to need to be thoroughly detailed.

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HWYSTR455

Grills done, and front stone guard, ready for the bumper.

On the side marker lights, the rubber seals made them sit too far away from the panels, so I trimmed them with a razor, cut the 'bead' in half, made them sit much tighter against the panels.

Will mount the bumper next weekend, and finish the rear lenses.

Couple shots....

HWYSTR455

Sorry for not posting in a while, weather, job, etc have all delayed progress. I did get the front bumper installed, all the marker lights, and the tail lenses all installed. Also installed the deck lid numbers, and the window channels that hold the seal. Remaining items:

*Window seals
*Rear interior panels - These need to be doctor some, since they don't quite line up with the window crank shaft. (They need to slide back more, but trin in the way)
*Rear seat
*Inside rear window trim
*Sill plates
*Seat Belts

Then it's shop stuff, like weld exhaust, alignment, A/C charge, and new tires mounted. Should have most done in the next few weekends...

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HWYSTR455

Some updates on the project, getting into the final phases, only a few items left.

Had to make a fuel sending unit, the gauge I bought was one that uses a 240-33 ohm gauge, not a 0-90 GM type. I ordered the right one, just they picked the wrong one when filling the order. Anyway, used the rheostat from the 240-33 sender and mounted it on an OE sender. Worked perfect, and took pics, will post once I get them off the camera. Had to drop the tank to swap it, but oh well.

Got the exhaust done, and most of the interior, seals, and a ton of small stuff. The headers I originally had on there (Flowtech) hung a little lower than I wanted, so bought some hookers and swapped them out when the exhaust was done. If anyone is interested in the Flowtech headers, will let them go cheap, $80 plus shipping.

Did some minor power tuning, had the jet the carb up. it's a Holley 670, out of the box is 65/67, am at 70/74 now, think I may need to step up to 72s on the primaries. Fighting the urge to go to a 770cfm...

The HEI was too close to the firewall for my liking, the engine harness was actually touching it, so was worried about it causing a short over time. So got a Accel Street Billet, tossed that in there. If anyone wants the HEI, let me know, it's an ebay special, new body, shaft, and all the guts. Went through it and made sure the shaft was lubricated, and put an aftermarket curve kit on it, it's very close for my combo, have all the docs, etc, $60 plus shipping if anyone is interested.

Went through 3 alternators, rebuilds, all went bad in a short time (CS-130). Got one on there now that seems to be holding up. (Fingers crossed)

Fan controller probe went bad, need to get a replacement, caught it going around the block, so didn't over heat.

Items left:
* alignment (done once, though it needs to be checked)
* Adjust trans & shifter
* fix the console lid
* Calibrate the speedo
* Mount the new tires
* Adjust carb & timing
* Re-install the interior bulbs (removed while I was doing the interior)
* Seat belts

Washed and waxed it this weekend, took it out for a spin. Need to polish the wheels more, they suffered from sitting outside for 5 years.

Here's some full side shots and a couple others after it was waxed...

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RetroRanger

looks great love the color combo

LMK what you do on the console lid mine needs repair too, the plastic part that the hinge attches too broke, I suspect its pretyy common to break there

HWYSTR455

You can seach here, that's what I did, you have to take the top part off the lower section of the console, then use a piece of metal strip to screw through the plastic piece that broke off into the strip. Others have posted pics, once you see it, it will make sense.

Mine I tried to JB Weld (epoxy) and it didn't work, like it was kind of 'rubbery'. It also flowed into the slot where the hinge goes in, making a mess. That's not going to be fun to try to clean up and fix, dreading that project...

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ent72olds

Absolutely gorgeous!! Love the silver stripes against the black....enjoy it!

HWYSTR455

Thank you! Yeah, the silver strips look great, but the pics just sooo don't do it justice. It looks killer at night under street lights!

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HWYSTR455

Repaired the console hinge area, the approach 507OLDS (Brian) posted on the following thread worked like a champ! I did it a little different, counter sunk the holes on the metal strip and ran the screws from the outside in, then ground off the protruding part. Thanks for posting Brian!

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...inge-area.html

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HWYSTR455

Here's shots of the fuel sender I made. There's a pic of the two original ones, the Classic Industries 240-33 ohm, and the factory style 0-90 ohm with the sender cut off.

The thing works great, fyi. Granular, and responsive, but doesn't keep moving (the needle).

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DENT

Looks real good , is that the sock suspension ? If not what did you use?

Allan R

Drooool.....That looks incredible. Normally I'm not a fan of black cars, but yours looks stunning! I guess I wasn't really reading before; didn't realize the stripes were silver. Great job. BTW you can't tell the wheels need cleaning in those shots.

HWYSTR455

The tip is what used to be surrounded by the sock, but I cut the sock away. I tossed around not using the sock tip, but then the pickup wouldn't reach as far into the tank, and wanted it to get more off the bottom.

You can see the one pic where I cut the rheostat housing away, and ground the edges. Since the new rheo has screw holes in the back to ride the rail of the aftermarket pickup assembly, it was easy to mount to the OE sender pad. I measured, and the depth of the rheo was correct for the new config, worked out great.

Thank you Allen, and yeah, same here, not a big fan of black, but my daughter insisted. Now looking at it, I really like it. I was torn on the strip color too, and since it wasn't original, wanted it to be a little different, and my daughter again chimed inwith silver. It works. When the light hits the strips, they are almost white they are so bright, but at night, they're very grey looking. It's pretty cool, would have to see it to know what I mean. The pics do it almost no justice.

The wheels, uhg! There's like mineral spots on them, under the Zoop, and dang it's a pain to clean them up! I use like 1000 grit, then 3 to 5 times with mothers, takes a lot of elbow! Think I have like 40 hours in them already, and need to be done more! But that's something the girl can help with! Heh-heh!

Saturday the 14th is the Star BOP Spring Dust-Off show in Leesburg, VA, will be going there for the day, if any are interested, it's a pretty nice turn out, and tons of stuff to do in the area. All Buick, Olds, and Pontiac...

http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/...off%202012.pdf

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HWYSTR455

Figured I'd post, have some updates, most are clean up issues, but a couple interesting developments:

I was chasing a wander issue that occured around sweeping right-handers at speed. I replaced the control arms in the front, uppers & lowers, the rear lowers, and rebalanced the tires as someone suggested, no improvement. Turns out it was the steering box, it leaked while off-center and to the right, so it was like applying power assist, letting go, power, letting go, etc. The PS pump was leaking at the valve to body, which I fixed, and was still seeing signs of leaking. Which is how I found the box leak. Replaced the steering box an all is good. I put Global West front uppers on (tall spindle style), and some ebay lowers that are GW clones. In the rear I did GW lowers, replacing the used Hotchkis ones that were on there.

Another item I was chasing down was an occassional miss, and sometimes it would lay down around 4000 RPM. I mean it was like you just turned the key off lay down. I checked all the wiring, all the ignition, fuel delivery, filter, blah blah blah, and found nothing. On another forum, someone was chasing a similar issue and turned out the be the tach messing with the pickup in an HEI. So I unhooked the tach, and dang, it all went away. Going to look into replacing or adding some filter, but for now, the tach is unhooked.

Have the rear brakes removed, and swapping to a Right Stuff rear brake kit. Seems the kit I had on there originally (SSBC), once the pads wore beyond a certain point, the caliper body makes contact with the shock body. Also switching over to a TH400 type E-brake cable setup, due to the crossmember moving back. Should have that all done by the end of day.

Took a few days off and did a shake-down trip. Went to New River Gorge and did a canopy & zip line tour, hung out in Beckley WV for a half day, traveled the Blue Ridge Parkway for a ways, went on the Crooked Road for a stretch, visited the Floyd Country store and listened to some music. Drove about 1400 miles. Stupid PS pump started leaking again, just going to replace it. Did some preliminary numbers on MPG, best was 21 MPG, which was at 55-60mph, worst was like 12 MPG, which was at 75 - 80 mph. Not sure if that's partially due to the power valve opening at that throttle position or what, but dang, unacceptable in my book. Maybe in the spring I will look into doing a 200R4. With the 350, don't think dropping to a 308 gear is going to provide enough performance, or MPG for that matter.

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j442

Your work is super! Love the black/silver combo! Your daughter will be impressed!!! Keep at it!

HWYSTR455

Thanks! I'm going to do a cam and intake swap here soon, for a couple reasons. I'm not quite happy with the advance curve, think the dynamic CR is a touch high. So am swapping to a Crower 220/226 (#56263) which has a later intake closing event. That should allow for a better advance curve, and tolerate 89 octane too.

Swapping the Performer for a Performer RPM at the same time, and may step up one size on the carb.

Car is currently in the body shop, having a couple areas that I wasn't satisfied with touched up. Shop owner was real nice about it all, and is going to be done no cost. The car has almost 10k miles on it now, and pretty much looks like it did the day I finished it.

Final thing I'm probably going to do is an overdrive. Was looking at some gear vendor units, which is the way I'm leaning.

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HWYSTR455

Thanks! I'm going to do a cam and intake swap here soon, for a couple reasons. I'm not quite happy with the advance curve, think the dynamic CR is a touch high. So am swapping to a Crower 220/226 (#56243) which has a later intake closing event. That should allow for a better advance curve, and tolerate 89 octane too.

Swapping the Performer for a Performer RPM at the same time, and may step up one size on the carb.

Car is currently in the body shop, having a couple areas that I wasn't satisfied with touched up. Shop owner was real nice about it all, and is going to be done no cost. The car has almost 10k miles on it now, and pretty much looks like it did the day I finished it.

Final thing I'm probably going to do is an overdrive. Was looking at some gear vendor units, which is the way I'm leaning.

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HWYSTR455

Deep into the cam & intake swap...also stepped up a size to a 770 aluminum Avenger. Should have it running by end of day...

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