first question - how to dash panel to change wiper switch
#1
first question - how to dash panel to change wiper switch
greetings to all. i'm a new member after finding the site doing a google search on "removing cutlass dashboard". first off, I have a 1971 stock Oldsmobile Cutlass 4-door hardtop, viking blue with a white top, rallye wheels, power everything, simply a beautiful car that gets raves everywhere it goes. all stock, nothing was ever modified on this car, with just over 100K miles on the 350 4barrel. i need to change the wiper switch as the wiper will go on, but will not go off right away. It goes off when it feels like it..lol. so i bought a new switch on ebay, now the hard part..how to remove the dash panel to get to the switches. i got as far as removing the radio controls and the woodgrain dash bezel around the gauges...but for the life of me i can't figure out how to remove the plasitic panel which seems to be one big piece extending from the left a/c vent all the way to the radio...well, i'm sure you all know what i'm describing. Can anyone assist..it would be greatly appreciated and help get my Cutlass back to 100% working condition. thanks...gary
#2
Does your wiper mechanism have the pulsating type of washer fluid dispersal? If so, you might not have a bad switch but a bad wiper unit on the firewall. That unit has, I think two, relays that operate the activation of the wiper motor, and the pump cam. They have a failure rate high enough that the "HELP" series of automotive self help products have marketed a replacement unit for it. You might invest in that before tearing the dash apart to change the switch.
#3
g so i bought a new switch on ebay, now the hard part..how to remove the dash panel to get to the switches. i got as far as removing the radio controls and the woodgrain dash bezel around the gauges...but for the life of me i can't figure out how to remove the plasitic panel which seems to be one big piece extending from the left a/c vent all the way to the radio...well, i'm sure you all know what i'm describing. Can anyone assist..it would be greatly appreciated and help get my Cutlass back to 100% working condition. thanks...gary
Now, having said that, you should not need to pull the dash to change the switch. Since you already have the gauge bezel off, simply remove the left-most gauge pod - four screws and it pulls out. Now you can reach in the hole and access the electical connector and nuts that hold the switch. Note that there's a tiny allen screw that holds the **** on the wiper switch.
#4
thank you Dan and Joe for your quick replies. This helps alot, i'll access the switch through the gauge pod first, change the switch since i have one, and see if that solves the problem of the wipers not turning off (timely). If that doesn't work, I'll check the relays under the hood. Dan, when you say ""HELP" series of automotive self help products", how do I get to those products? Sorry for my ignorance but I'm really new to this as the Cutlass has not really given me any problems so I'm new to the self help. My mechanic usually handles the major work, but I figured I could tackle the wiper on my own. Thanks again, Gary
#5
In the midwest, there is almost a whole aisle of these products at the auto parts store. They are actually called HELP products and provide things like general hardware for automobiles, *****, handles, hinge pins, washers, light bezels, etc.
#6
There are no relays in the wiper circuit on an A-body. They just used larger copper wires then.
The HELP line contains lots of hard to find small parts, not all of which are stocked at the local discount auto parts chains. The full catalog is here:
www.dormanproducts.com
The HELP line contains lots of hard to find small parts, not all of which are stocked at the local discount auto parts chains. The full catalog is here:
www.dormanproducts.com
#7
Windshield Wiper Switch
Gary, attached are a couple photos of the back side of your dash. I'm pointing to one of the dash mounting studs, but right next to my fat finger is the wiper switch. It takes a 1/4" socket to remove the mounting screws. If these photos aren't clear enough, and if you don't get to it until the weekend, I could take some better shots. John
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2/P1010264.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2/P1010260.jpg
P.S. I have extra parts if you come up needing anything else and can't find it locally.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2/P1010264.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2/P1010260.jpg
P.S. I have extra parts if you come up needing anything else and can't find it locally.
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