Jusrushem

So I am almost done putting my car back together, but the dipstick was forgotten to install and now we are having one he'll of a time putting it in. We got it but it's leaking due to qe think it's not on good. I have Thornton headers on now. It's one pain in tye butt to put in. Is there a easier way to put it back in without pulling the motor?
thanks ohana and please enjoy the holidays

69HO43

Since you're going to make us guess what engine it is, I'll assume it's the original 307. Is it a GM dipstick tube or is it an aftermarket part? GM part number 417090 if still using the stock indicator. Fits all SBO flat tappet V8s from 74-85. If it's a 455, it'll be a different part number. But the procedure will be the same.

Unfortunately, I don't have direct experience with any aftermarket dipstick tubes. From what I've heard, some of the aftermarket Olds V8 dipstick tubes that are supposed to be direct replacements don't fit quite so well. The dognut areas on the bottom of the tube where it enters the block are a bit too large and a little bit of careful sanding on those areas may knock them down enough to be able to install them. Again, only going by third party information, so not sure on that. Maybe someone with experience with aftermarket tubes can chime in on this.

Of course, after all that work on the car, you may be able to lift up that side of the engine a bit, loosen/remove the header bolts to the block (and maybe the exhaust side too, if it clamps or bolts up) and trans mount bolts, drop the starter and take out the driver's side motor mount bolt. Also, loosen or remove the header bolts, and get it to go. With headers, I suspect the backdrive linkage is already removed with headers, but if for some reason it's not, take that loose too by removing the frame bracket for it so it doesn't bend/bind when you lift that side. I know, it's a PITA, but it surely is amazing when you leave off a little part that doesn't do much becomes a huge issue at the most inopportune times to fix it.

joe_padavano

The dipstick tube is a press fit into the block. The two beads below the flange press into the hole in the block and create the seal. Every single aftermarket tube I've seen has these beads formed incorrectly - they are too large and don't go into the block. I've had to file them down to match the OD of the beads on the original tube. Typically they are about 0.010" too large. You still need to carefully drive the tube into place, but it takes a lot less force once the beads are the correct OD.

Jusrushem

[Forgivd me. It's the stock motor. Yea we tried to pit it back in after putting the motor back in and headers in the way but I believe we it didn't go in correctly. If I can upload a video on the oil drip I'll upload it. Thank you

QUOTE=69HO43;1468925]Since you're going to make us guess what engine it is, I'll assume it's the original 307. Is it a GM dipstick tube or is it an aftermarket part? GM part number 417090 if still using the stock indicator. Fits all SBO flat tappet V8s from 74-85. If it's a 455, it'll be a different part number. But the procedure will be the same.

Unfortunately, I don't have direct experience with any aftermarket dipstick tubes. From what I've heard, some of the aftermarket Olds V8 dipstick tubes that are supposed to be direct replacements don't fit quite so well. The dognut areas on the bottom of the tube where it enters the block are a bit too large and a little bit of careful sanding on those areas may knock them down enough to be able to install them. Again, only going by third party information, so not sure on that. Maybe someone with experience with aftermarket tubes can chime in on this.

Of course, after all that work on the car, you may be able to lift up that side of the engine a bit, loosen/remove the header bolts to the block (and maybe the exhaust side too, if it clamps or bolts up) and trans mount bolts, drop the starter and take out the driver's side motor mount bolt. Also, loosen or remove the header bolts, and get it to go. With headers, I suspect the backdrive linkage is already removed with headers, but if for some reason it's not, take that loose too by removing the frame bracket for it so it doesn't bend/bind when you lift that side. I know, it's a PITA, but it surely is amazing when you leave off a little part that doesn't do much becomes a huge issue at the most inopportune times to fix it.[/QUOTE]