pcard

For a 1970 Cutlass, is there a trick to tapping into those multi line connectors, such as the dash toconsole neutral/back-up safety harness connector? I would like to take a lead out and add a second wire to it. I do not want to destroy the connector and am hoping there is a slight of hand that will allow me to remove the tab.


Separately, what is the procedure for removing the fuse box and exposing the engine harness connector? I looked high and low but could not find any references.

joe_padavano

If your question is "how do I remove terminals from the plastic housing?", this should help:

pcard

Thanks Joe. I assume you can also remove the male connectors by inserting a pin into the upper part of the opening to disengage the lock while pulling on the wire.

Allan R

I use a very small flatblade. Works fine. Most of the time the lock gets pushed flat, but can be repositioned when it's free and clear.

joe_padavano

Yes, jeweler's screwdrivers work pretty well. I have the Lisle "starfish" terminal tool and that works nicely on a variety of terminal types (Packard 56, Weatherpack, etc). By the way, the silver forked blade on the tool is designed to jumper the A and B terminals in an OBD I connector to flash the codes (yeah, I always use a paper clip too...).

pcard

Thanks Guys.
For the fuse box, it is as simple as removing the screws, pulling the box and and exposing the connectors underneath?

MDchanic

There is a single screw holding the two engine-side connectors to the fuse block, from the engine side, right in the middle.
It has a 3/8" hex head.

Once you remove the screw and the plugs from the engine side, you can remove the fuse block from the inside.

- Eric

pcard

Thanks Eric.

HWYSTR455

Actually, as I recall, you can separate the fuse block from the bulkhead connector without disconnecting the engine and forward light harness from inside the engine compartment.

Here's a how-to for swapping a later ATO style fuse block with the original glass fuse type:

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/GMATOStyleFuseBlock.htm

The same site has references to the terminal types used in different GM and Ford cars. The ones that go into the fuse block are 90 degree female connectors that accept the different fuses:

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Auto...Connectors.htm

There are also listings for places to source the connectors on that site.

I suggest using the removal tool(s) that Joe posted, there's a red one & a silver one too that covers additional types of connectors.



Also, I suggest investing in quality type crimpers that are specific to the connector you are playing with. Klein is a good brand and have been around for years, pretty much the standard in crimp tools. Generally, you will eventually need several crimp tools to handle all the types of crimps you will need to do.

.

Allan R

The factory also packed dialetric grease into the connection to prevent corrosion - so be prepared that it might be somewhat messy.

pcard

is this a tricky operation or straight forward? It seems that there are many stories about electrical work behind the dash that leave much unsaid; two hours to remove a light switch amongst others.

MDchanic

One screw and two plugs come out.

Of course, the next question is, Then what?

What are you trying to do?

- Eric

pcard

Eric: I have a wire that is coming through the accessory grommet into the engine compartment, always hot, that is hanging down about 6". It was powering the underhood lamp, but was not correct. I have now connected the lamp to the correct lead from the harness and want to remove that dangling wire - it is bugging me. If getting to the back of the fuse box is simple then I will do that. If not, then I will wait until I have a more pressing reason.

MDchanic

I wouldn't bother, but it's not too hard to pivot the fuse box away from the firewall. If you do, though, the heavy harnesses coming off of it don't give you a lot of room to maneuver.

If it's really bugging you, it's easy enough to mobilize the fuse block, then you can see whether you can get enough movement to do what you want to do with it - if not, then it only takes a few minutes to put it back together.

- Eric

pcard

I'll do a little recon then. Thanks.

Allan R

There may be other wires such as the map light or other accessory wiring that complicate moving the fuse block. I know that I ran into that with 2 71 CS's that had rear defog and light packages. Yeah, it's easy to undo the inside fuse block, but if you need to undo the cowl side it's a real PITA because of the brake booster. I agree with just removing the hot lead from the accessory grommet on the cowl, trace it back and disconnect it. How did this get missed in the restoration?

pcard

Hi Alan - I have no idea what the guys were thinking when they hooked the light up. The correct setup is evident in the factory assembly manual, which they were using. And the correct lead is right there on the forward lamp harness. Oh well.